Reykjavík Grapevine - 21.06.2019, Page 47

time, and head through the mist
over to Landmannalaugar’s fa-
mous geothermal hot spring to
unwind.
Due to the weather, the pool is
nearly empty. That said, I find it
the perfect place to soak in and
forget about the stresses involved
in driving up an active and over-
due volcano. A flowing river with
hot water seeping in from the
sides, the bathing spot can feel on
the cold side—you have to search
for warm eddies and huddle by the
rocks for hot water. While it’s not
my favourite spring in the coun-
try, it’s a welcome break from the
bumpy roads.
Dizzying landscapes
After the soak, we continue the
adventure. Despite the weather,
the Friðland að Fjallabaki area is
dizzying. The expanse stretches
out in all directions, with long
swathes of black sand punctu-
ated by jagged cliffs and rocks.
Turn a corner, and you’re sud-
denly greeted by a monstrous
red crater or a freezing waterfall.
There’s so much to take in that
it’s overwhelming. Within the
impenetrable mist of Iceland’s
interior, a great many treasures
are revealed.
We take our time, stopping
to look out over beautiful rusty
cliffs or explore tracks and trails
too small and remote to be in-
cluded on Google Maps. Even
in bad weather, this region is
thrilling to witness. We stop
by waterfalls so remote they
don’t have names, and drive
down roads so faded, it ’s a
wonder we even know where
they are. I’m constantly grate-
ful for the intrepid superjeep,
which takes us so far from the
well-beaten tourist trail that
we’re often completely alone.
Driv ing back to Reyk ja-
vík—unfortunately, on paved
roads—I’m struck by the maj-
esty of what I just experienced.
Hek la, in al l her explosive
beauty, mixes with the gor-
geous bleakness of Landma-
nnalaugar, and in my head, I
know I’ll be back in the High-
lands, hopef u l ly ex ploring
trails even more remote. gpv.is/travel
Follow all our travels
This crater could destroy us all
Double waterfall!
Gjáin, a remote part of the Highlands
KRAUMA
Visit Deildartunguhver, Europe’s most powerful hot spring and
experience nature from its core by bathing in the geothermal baths
at Krauma. It is open all year round and offers five geothermal
baths, a cold tub, two calming saunas and a relaxation room where
you rest by the fireplace while listening to soothing music.
CAN YOU PRONOUNCE
DeiLDAR-
TUNGUHVER?
C: [‘ TEILTAR,TUNGU,KWEHR]
RESTAURANT
Krauma Restaurant & Bar serves Icelandic cuisine from
the freshest local farm produced ingredients and a wide
selection of drinks. Relax while enjoying the spectacular
view of Europe’s most powerful hot spring.
Krauma is located at Deildartunguhver,
a 97 km drive from Reykjavík.
EXPERIENCE NATURE FROM ITS CORE
@krauma_baths
kraumageothermal
+354 555 6066
www.krauma.is
Deildartunguhver, 320 Reykholt