Reykjavík Grapevine - 01.06.2022, Page 9

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Best Bakery
Joint Winners
Sandholt
Laugavegur 36
“Just walking in there feels so special,”
sighed one panellist. We agree,
Sandholt is all kinds of special. We
challenge you to find better laminated
viennoiserie or bread as hearty and
delicious. Amidst the Scandi fever that
has firmly gripped bakeries in town,
Sandholt stands tall with its Parisian
vibes. If you don’t know what to choose,
might we steer your attention to the
vínarbrauð, generous with custard, or
the buttery pain aux raisin, the tropical
vibes of the passionfruit-coconut dac-
quoise and yes, a simple loaf of bread.
Deig Workshop
Tryggvagata 14
Deig continues to knock our socks off
with their play on American classics
with a deeply Icelandic twist, all at
unbeatable prices. Deig’s doughnut
version of the kleina—with its hint of
lemon and cardamom in the glaze,
atop feather-light yeasted dough—is
perfect with a cup of joe. The creme
brulee doughnut is another much cop-
ied OG and and the bagels satisfy many
a craving. Unlike other bakeries, Deig’s
selection is small but focussed.
Runner-Up
Brauð & Co.
Multiple locations
City-wide chain Brauð og Co has finally
managed to get a grip on QC, going
by the uniformity across their various
branches. The kitchens are experi-
menting with weekend-only treats (the
mango-lime-coconut danish is still
going strong) and the snuðurs, though
the size of a baby’s head, are delicious.
We especially like the always-full flask
of coffee to-go, a thoughtful detail.
Previous Winners
2021: Sandholt
2020: Sandholt
2019: Sandholt/Deig
Best Thai
Ban Thai
Laugavegur 130
Ban Thai continues to rule the roost
when it comes to Thai restaurants—but
we can’t help feeling that this is a cate-
gory that could do with a serious shake
up (we’re looking at you, Mat Bar, with
that Northern Thai pop-up). It would
have to be stiff competition however,
as Ban Thai doesn't seem to rest on its
laurels. Just take a look at their website
which reads like an admonishment for
whatever preconceived notions you
may have harboured about the cuisine.
Recently, we’ve enjoyed their smoky
grilled pork in a sticky tamarind glaze.
Runners-Up

Krua Thai
Skólavörðustígur 21
‘’Iceland isn’t cheap—which should be
an opportunity to showcase quality
food and produce,’’ our panellist astut-
lely observed. Thai restaurants here,
however, are often shorn of that herby,
fresh punctuation associated with the
cuisine, presumably as a cost-cutting
measure. That being said, Krua Thai has
long been the local go-to for Thai food.
Loyalists swear by their fragrant cur-
ries, generous portions and attentive
service.
Mai Thai
Laugavegur 116
Does Mai Thai make their curries
from scratch? Probably not. Do they
make the best Pad Thai in town?
A resounding yes. But we’d like to
take your attention off the noodle
dish and direct you to the laab. Mai
Thai is one of few places that makes
a decent laab, chock full of sliced
shallots, fresh mint, coriander and
toasted rice powder. We also love the
Tom Kha.
Previous Winners
2021: Ban Thai
2020: Ban Thai
2019: Ban Thai
Best Chinese
Fine
Rauðarárstígur 33
Fine may have had a challenging time
during the pandemic but their hand
pleated dumplings never betrayed the
trials of the year. A panel favourite, Fine
is a no nonsense, no frills, Sichuanese
Chinese restaurant that steadfastly
opens Reykjvaik’s mind’s and palates to
the regional cuisine. The Mala Chicken is
a tingling explosion of flavour, literally,
thanks to the sichuan peppercorn.
For something simple yet exciting, we
recommend the Hot and Sour Potatoes,
a classic rendition of matchstick pota-
toes, best eaten with fragrant rice.
Runner-Up

Fönix
Bíldshöfði 12
If your idea of Chinese food is the pallid
fare at Rikki Chan, boy are you in for a
ride at Fönix. While the lunch buffet is
a cheap, cheerful affair compared to
similar spreads across town, here even
the usually staid wings are singing
with star anise and other aromatics.
For vegan and pork dumplings, the fish
fragrant eggplant, and ‘we-challenge-
you-to-find-better’ Mapo Tofu, Fönix
ticks all the boxes.

Tian
Grensásvegur 12
Designed like a time capsule of dated
restaurant interiors (think red fans
and gold lamps), Tian seems intent on
being a Western Chinese joint. Except,
amongst popular options like Kung Pao
Chicken, there's also pillowy steamed
buns and dumplings. There's suppos-
edly a mythic secret menu, although
we can neither confirm or deny its
existence.
Previous Winners
2021: Fine
2020: Fine
2019: Fönix
Best Traditional
Icelandic Food
Þrír Frakkar
Baldursgata 14
Þrir Frakkar has held onto a strong
sense of Icelandic food culture long
before it became fashionable to tout
‘Icelandic cuisine’ as bragging rights.
This cosy, tucked-away restaurant has
not let anything sway them from tradi-
tion—you’ll spot everything from foal,
to blackbird, to cod throats to plokkfi-
skur on their menu. Opened in 1989, the
restaurant has been run by chef Úlfar
Eysteinsson and his family ever since. A
visit to this place underlines that good
old-fashioned Icelandic cooking can be
all kinds of memorable.
Runners-Up

Cafe Loki
Lokastígur 28
This unassuming cafe has been
unabashedly celebrating tradition long
before Icelandic food was considered
‘cool’. From the classic kjötsúpa to
herring and plökkfiskur, everything is
a throwback to how the island once
ate. For those writing their own tales of
bravado, there is fermented shark to be
washed down with Brennivín—essential
for bragging rights.

Kaffi Vagninn
Grandagarður 10
Iceland’s oldest running restaurant,
Kaffivagninn’s enviable location
by the harbour is best enjoyed on
a sunny day, out on the deck, a
cold one in hand, a mighty slice of
brauð tetra in the other. Portions
are very much sailor sized, and the
plokkfiskur is a throwback to Amma’s
place. Other Icelandic classics like
fiskibollur are also on offer.
Previous Winners
2021: Café Loki
2020: Café Loki