Reykjavík Grapevine - 01.06.2022, Síða 18

The Reykjavík Grapevine
Best of Reykjavík 2022
18
Best Newcomer
Brút
Pósthússtræti 2
Chef Ragnar Eiriksson has been through a few jaunts and joints since
his departure from Dill. At Brút, he has found his voice and a balance
of flavours that appeal to a large cross-section of diners—no mean
feat. Brút had a shaky start but quickly found their rhythm. From the
extensive wine ‘book’ to the decor and playful graphics, the concept
feels well thought-out. Focussed on seafood, the usual suspects only
lurk briefly, making way for a showcase of the sea snails, scallops,
squid and skate. Despite the emphasis on seafood, we are also partial
to the gnocchi (sinful, buttery goodness). If they’d work on the meh
dessert trolley (a great idea let down by execution), Brút is all set to
knock other establishments off their comfy perches.
Runners-Up
Tides
The Reykjavík Edition, Austurbakki 2
Under the vision of chef Gunnar Karl
and headed by chef Georg Halldórs-
son, Tides quickly turned the tides
(we couldn’t resist) from safe hotel
restaurant to fine dining establish-
ment to watch out for. With a stunning
open kitchen that overlooks a plush
dining room, independent wine list and
cocktails that don’t skew sweet, Tides is
proving popular with both hotel guests
as well as local diners. We love the
Josper Basque grill and the expertise
the kitchen wields over it—the grilled
arctic char with crispy, smoky skin and
coral tender insides is proof of this. The
menu showcases local produce in an
elevated fashion, and is combined with
stellar service.
Hnoss
Austurbakki 2
Many restaurants have come and gone
in the concert hall lobby, but none had
the foothold Hnoss already does. Chef
Fanney Dóra has crafted a wholesome,
moreish menu here that comfortably
combines her love for bold spices with
her passion for Icelandic produce. This
is best expressed in dishes like the
delicate shrimp cocktail and the heady
miso-glazed celeriac, a dish that will
convert even hardcore meat-eaters.
Rumour has it that Fanney is also brew-
ing her own champagne blend with
none other than Piper Heidsick.
Previous Winners
2021: Dragon Dimsum
2020: Makake
2019: Eiriksson Brasserie
Best Ice Cream
Joint Winners
Gæta Gelato
Aðalstræti 6
Hailing from a line of maestro gelatiere,
the Gæta family uses the best Icelandic
ingredients, marrying them with top
line produce from Italy for an unmissa-
ble treat. Piedmontese hazelnuts and
Sicilian pistachios are swirled and
churned to creamy perfection. Gæta’s
crispy, thin cones are coated in choc-
olate sauce for a surprise ending, and
if that wasn't enough, you can choose
two flavours in a single scoop!
Skúbb
Laugarásvegur 1
Nothing quite says live in the moment
like a melty cone of luscious ice-cream.
Did you know that Skúbb only uses milk
from Bíobú, an organic local farm? Each
scoop at Skúbb is vibrant and intense,
whether vegan or diary (can you even
tell which is which?). With a small
curated selection that reflects the
seasons, this imaginarium of joy churns
everything from tomatoes to licorice
roots into ice cream.
Runner-Up
Omnom
Hólmaslóð 4
Award winning, world famous chocolate
brand Omnom now do ice creams!
Omnom elevates milky vanilla soft serve
to kawaii artform. Sure, they don’t make
their own ice cream, but it is a wel-
come blank canvas for their gourmet
toppings and flourishes. Thankfully,
they now serve their giant portions
alongside a much-needed children’s
size, so you don’t have to share your
treats with anyone.
Previous Winners
2021: Gæta Galeto
2020: Skúbb
2019: Skúbb
Best Tasting Menu
Óx Reykjavík
Inside Sumac, Laugavegur 28
There is a sense of theatre at Óx,
Iceland’s only chef’s table experience.
Everything unfolds against a backdrop
of chef Þráinn’s grandfather’s restored
kitchenette. Old and new commingle
gently here, exploding in bursts of
brilliance, with deft handling of pristine
produce. For non-drinkers, there is a
sophisticated juice pairing alongside
their wine offering, with house-made
kombuchas. Midway through the
16 course extravaganza, you'll find
yourself engaged in banter with guests
from across the world, all here creating
gastronomic memories together.
Runners-Up
Dill
Laugavegur 59
You’d be hard-pressed to find a better
tasting experience in Iceland than
Dill. Can fine dining and sustainability
really co-exist? Chef Gunnar Karl is not
just attempting this at Dill, but sharing
with us along the way that fine dining
can also be ecologically conscionable.
The courses are well paced, with a
focus on vegetables and nose to tail
consumption.
Matur og Drykkur
Grandagarður 2
Matur og Drykkur has switched entirely
to a tasting menu format, bolstering
classic, sometimes forgotten Icelandic
recipes and presenting them through
a modern lens. There are childhood
favourites like blood sausage in an
entirely new avatar with foraged
arctic thyme, and the rice pudding is
reinterpreted as a creamy ice cream.
Cocktails embody the same spirit. This
is a fresh makeover of a much-loved
favourite that has firmly cemented its
place in Reykjavík fine dining.
Previous Winners
2021: Óx Reykjavík
2020: Óx Reykjavík
2019: Grillið
BEST OF REYKJAVÍK 2022
Dining
Rising stars and old favourites