Reykjavík Grapevine - sep. 2021, Blaðsíða 30

Your GPS announces you’re near-
ing your destination. You drive past
sheep lazily napping in tufts of lus-
cious moss as rain gently patters
your windshield. The buzz of the city
begins to wash away. The absolute
serenity of your new surroundings
starts to set in.
Millennia-old design,
modern living
Stepping onto the black volcanic rocks
paving Torfhús Retreat, you’re struck
with an immediate sense of luxury,
history and an intensely personal
oneness with nature. It’s no surprise
to learn that each aspect of the re-
treat, down to the dutifully crafted
stonework adorning each turf-topped
home, was deeply important to the
minds behind this haven. Who knew
a mutual love of breeding Icelandic
horses could bring two families—one
from Iceland, the other from Liech-
tenstein—to develop this stunning
countryside oasis? Yet, that’s exactly
how Torfhús Retreat was born.
Once you’ve been welcomed by
the vibrant staff and finally turn
the knob to your new—albeit tem-
porary—home, you’re met with the
stunning facade of 200-year-old re-
claimed wood from Swiss and Aus-
trian churches and you realise that
nothing—not a thing—has been tak-
en for granted here. Sink into a piece
of handcrafted furniture for a post-
travel snooze, warm up with a shower
that’s practically begging you to treat
yourself to a self-care night or pick up
the phone and dial 9 for a Northern
Lights wakeup call, if the season suits.
With the effortless warmth of home,
nothing about this place feels fleeting.
Nobody puts nature in
the corner
Set in a field surrounded by slightly
rolling land with mountains loom-
ing in the distance, you could set an
afternoon aside to just admire how
your surroundings morph in the ever-
changing Icelandic weather—it looks,
at times, like there’s a different season
in full swing in every direction you
look. Not that the weather will damp-
en your enjoyment of this place. Tak-
ing a dip in your private and, dare I say,
instantly iconic basalt stone hot pool
while soft rain falls is one of those joys
that make you feel unquestionably in
touch with your surroundings. This,
right here, is Iceland.
Palate teasing & appetite
pleasing
The main lodge at Torfhús is a mas-
terclass in comfort, washing you in
the warm golden hues only other-
wise found in the most quaint Alpine
chalets or movies featuring a gour-
mandising Viking feast scene. If it’s
time for dinner, you’re one to be en-
vied. Locally-sourced ingredients are
harmonised for each course to pro-
duce plates that feel both rustic and
sumptuous, as in unison as every oth-
er aspect of the experience here. You
wouldn’t tire of eating this fare even
if the chef wasn’t dedicated to creating
an entirely new culinary journey night
after night. Do opt for the remarkable
wine pairings selected by the on-site
sommelier.
Onward to adventure
When your sojourn comes to an end,
you’ll depart feeling refreshed but
undoubtedly bittersweet. Luckily, the
Golden Circle is rife with adventurous
activities to help your spirits rebound.
Hike one of the lesser known trails
in the area, take a moment of reflec-
tion at the strikingly serene Brúar-
hlö! canyon, book a heart-racing raft-
ing trip or check out the classic stops
along Iceland’s famous Golden Circle.
It’s also just a short drive over to
Fri!heimar in nearby Reykholt, a de-
lightful restaurant, bar and tomato-
centred shop situated in the corner
of a fully functioning greenhouse,
growing some of the best tomatoes
in Iceland. Sink into the freshest bowl
of tomato soup around or, for the to-
mato-crazed among us, sip a wildly
drinkable tomato beer. You’ll be drop-
ping that tidbit at cocktail parties for
years to come.
What Torfhús Retreat has creat-
ed is a space that is at once a perfect
destination in and of itself while also
functioning as the ideal jumping off
point to enjoy everything the area has
to offer—if you can find the power
within yourself to leave.
Travel distance
from Reykjavík:
107 km
Accommodation
provided by:
torfhus.is
Car provided by:
gocarrental.is
A Little Old, A Little
New And A Fabulous
View
Luxury Meets History In The Golden Circle
Words: Desirai Thompson Photos: Art Bicnick
Travel
An exact replica of the 12th century, minus the swimsuit
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Looking into the past
“Stepping onto the
black volcanic rock
paving Torfhús Retreat,
you’re immediately
wrapped in a blanket
of luxury, history and
an intensely personal
oneness with nature.”