Reykjavík Grapevine - apr. 2022, Blaðsíða 28

Reykjavík Grapevine - apr. 2022, Blaðsíða 28
Burgers: they’re everywhere. The deceptively simple shtick of meat and bread might have only recently made the jump from plate to bun, but it’s a change that Icelanders have embraced wholesale. Whether gracing the table of a sophisticated establishment, or nourishing the hungry traveller in a backwater gas station, burgers are a ubiquitous feature of Icelandic menus. It is little wonder then that our annual Best of Reykjavík burger category gets everyone riled up and on edge. This year, we’re taking you along with us for the infamous Grapevine Burger Crawl. Buckle in, it’s going to be a doozy. Bio Borgari If you want to feel like you’re saving the world, sticking it to the man, and having a delicious meal while you’re at it, here is the answer — a burger joint promoting food sustainability and well-being for customers and the planet. This might be the cutest burger joint in town. Two passionate broth- ers run this tight ship, sourcing ingredients ethically and sustain- ably. This is a burger that walks the talk, so much so that the owners have now invested in their own farm that supplies produce when in season. Talk about commitment! SB: I’ll admit I wasn’t their biggest fan when they first opened — I felt the burgers were a bit too panini- like with their penchant for pesto. But boy have I come around. The photogenic presentation reveals a beautifully constructed burger with a wonderful ratio of fillings to bun. And the colours! The spelt sourdough buns are sturdy, the meat smoky from its turn on the grill, and the homemade condiments are topnotch. Shout out to their tangy, fresh tomato sauce! The vegan patty is hearty, toothsome and chock full of earthy goodness from the beans and grains. The burgers are light, fresh, and despite the absence of mayo-like sauces, they are far from dry. These virtuous burgers are hella tasty and they make a mean lamb burger as well. VG: The basic burger is such a well- constructed affair that it feels like an architect drew it up and approached it as if it was a cathedral. The burger offers tasty organic beef, pickled cucumber, green kale pesto, tomato sauce and salad. The sourdough spelt bun was surprisingly fluffy and soft while still being firm. The pesto lifted the taste and gave it a fresh spirit, but it could be off-putting for some. The special burger this time around had refried black beans and a mango and pineapple chutney. The sauce was surprisingly mild and tender while the crunchy garlic gave it an unexpected edge. This burger, like the basic one, was incredibly well constructed and as a whole, almost flawless. Le Kock There have been two distinctive shifts in the burger scene in Iceland. The first was in 1981 when Tómas Tómasson, opened his chain of ‘Tommi’s’ restaurants, offering Icelanders a taste of American style burgers for the first time. The second came in 2017, when a trio of chefs opened Le Kock, signalling the arrival of the gourmet burger. Until Le Kock, most burger buns were a middling Myllan, or the much too rich, pastry-like brioche bun affair. Not at Le Kock though. Their buns, made with Knútur Hrei!ars- son’s family-farmed potatoes, are the perfect example of the benefit of utilising local produce. SB: These burgers have ruled the roost since they opened, and with good reason. They arrive looking like a textbook shot. Cutting in is a joy, and the bun holds its own right down to the last bite. The cheese- burger here is an ode to the OG with crisp toasted buns, perfectly melty cheddar, a juicy patty cooked just right, and pickles and slaw adding fresh crunch. The Trump tower, on the other hand, is an unapolo- getic double-patty American smash burger with yellow mustard, a shockingly balanced truffle ketchup and perfectly smashed patties. The Reykjavík Bur!er Crawl - Part 1 In the search for Reykjavík’s best bur!ers, we discover that there is a bur!er for everyone Words: Shruthi Basappa & Valur Grettisson Photos: Art Bicnick Food Laugavegi 28 537 99 00 sumac@sumac. is sumac. is watch GRAPEVINE ON YOUTUBE /TheReykjavikGrapevine

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