Atlantica - 01.07.2004, Qupperneq 30

Atlantica - 01.07.2004, Qupperneq 30
28 A T L A N T I C A derful summer salad and a cool drink. Afterwards, we wander around the lit- tle residences, and everything is silent. It’s Sunday, and people must be sleep- ing. Eventually, a man staggers towards us. “Why are there no cats on this island,” the photographer asks him, as he tends to ask anything on his mind. The man looks extremely bewildered. “Ka...ka...ka...” he stutters. Then he walks past, leaving a trail of alcohol vapour in his wake. We later watch him struggle to steady his hands so that he might get his key into the lock of his front door. We come across another friendly inhabitant, a long-haired and pink-faced blonde who laughs and asks us whether we want to buy a boat. Her boyfriend is reconstructing a beautiful vessel in the old shipyard. She tells us she’s lived here for twenty-five years, apart from a one-year stint in Copenhagen’s free state of Christiania. In the haze of this lazy afternoon we sail back to Helsinki. We head to Katajanokka, the Russian quarter of town, just in time for the six o’clock bells of the orthodox Uspensky Cathedral, whose spires are visible from all around the city. Helsinki is reputed to have the best Russian restaurants in Northern Europe, and we step inside the splendid Bellevue, just on the other side of the cathedral. Its plush interior dates from 1917 and recreates a sense of tsarist times, complete with Russian music. I feast on blintzes with sour cream and roe and then tuck into a tender reindeer steak that seems infused with the taste of Finnish forests. A fantastic ending to my Finland sojourn. Finland may be far away. Far away from crowds, pollution and traffic jams, but it is most definitely not far away in terms of civilisation, design and trends. And actually it seems to me, that when it comes to trends, it’s the Finns that also set them. Anna Margrét Björnsson is the editor of Atlantica. Helsinki Icelandair flies to Helsinki twice weekly (Mondays and Fridays) this summer. 022-28 HELSINKI ATL 304 22.6.2004 20:41 Page 28
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Atlantica

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