Iceland review - 2014, Qupperneq 36

34 ICELAND REVIEW
sheepherders’ path over Öxarfjarðarheiði heath and along
the spectacular Jökulsárgljúfur canyon, where the wild gla-
cial river Jökulsá á Fjöllum flows 100 meters (330 feet) below,
past the distinct columnar basalt rocks Hljóðaklettar. “Right
there is a church,” says gert Heiberg, one of Halldór’s help-
ers, pointing out a peculiar rock formation. an earlier agent
for Íshestar in norway, he now comes to iceland every sum-
mer to participate in horse riding trips. “and there is a troll,”
he adds. Part of Vatnajökull national Park, Jökulsárgljúfur
and Hljóðaklettar are popular tourist destinations, but we’re
alone here now. “the landscape has been so diverse every
day,” says Susi. mostly, we ride off the beaten path, in places
where people could easily get lost forever.
“are we lost?” i ask helper Karl Björnsson, called Kalli,
during what seems like a moment’s confusion while riding
across Öxarfjarðarheiði. “We know the way, don’t worry,” he
assures me. “i’m not worried; it would be even more of an
adventure,” i joke. He is quick to set me straight. “getting
lost is no laughing matter.” take a wrong turn and you’ll
head for the rugged interior instead of the lush countryside.
“You’d be dead long before reaching the highlands,” Kalli
quips before chasing after a would-be four-legged runaway.
experiencing the country from the back of an icelandic
horse is a feeling like no other. on a journey like this, you
become one with the horse, anticipating its movements,
having complete faith in the horse finding its footing on
the narrowest of paths and slipperiest of slopes. You take
in the scent of the heather and wild herbs, feel joy in the
first hint of autumn colors and marvel at the unobstructed
view of the vast expanse of untouched nature all around.
“it’s the wilderness that leaves people stunned,” states Kalli.
this is confirmed by alicia Johansson, who got the trip as
a present from her grandfather for her 18th birthday. “in
Sweden, riding in the forest, you only see trees.” nina adds,
“in germany i can only go riding for an hour at a time.”
Here, you can go on and on. “it’s addictive,” claims Susi. “i
was crazy about icelandic horses before i came here first and
my husband and sons thought one horse riding trip would
satisfy me. But i always have to come back for more!”
trAVeL
From the top: the women team
up to attack Halldór; two blazed
beauties; Checking the hooves for
stones before setting off; getting
ready for the next ride.