Iceland review - 2016, Page 51

Iceland review - 2016, Page 51
ICELAND REVIEW 49 reserved for government business, now a dining room. “Imagine all the ideas that were thought up here,” he says with awe. Known for their generosity and for hosting fancy dinners, the Stephensens dominated Viðey for four generations. In their time, a printing house was also operated on the island. INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION In the early 20th century, entrepreneur Eggert Briem ran a large-scale dairy farm on Viðey, selling the milk in a store in Reykjavík. The operation required quite a few farmhands. Þórir points out hillocks, peculiarly-named Kvennagönguhólar (‘Women’s Hiking Hills’). “During hay- making, Gunna might have said to Jón— because she fancied him—that it would be a beautiful night. She intended to walk over to the hills after work and he was welcome to join her. And—because Jón fancied Gunna—he went to meet her there. In confirmation of my theo- ry, there’s a small cave by the hills, just big enough for two people to squeeze tightly together. And it’s called Paradís [‘Paradise’].” In 1909, the so-called Milljónafélagið corporation bought Viðey with ambi- tious plans for farming and fishing. Two large piers and industrial buildings were constructed on the island’s eastern side, connected by rail. Some 20 houses were built for the employees. Danish compa- nies used the island as a trans-shipment port and for storing coal and oil; from there, oil was sent in barrels to Reykjavík. Milljónafélagið went bankrupt in 1914 and in the early 1920s, Kárafélagið took over, operating trawlers from the island and processing fish in the village— inhabitants numbered around 100 in its heyday. Electricity was produced by a motor generator, water supplied from a tank, and a schoolhouse was built in 1928. But then the Great Depression hit and, in 1931, Kárafélagið went out of business. All the buildings, apart from the schoolhouse (where old photographs from Viðey are now exhibited), were moved to the mainland. By 1943, the village had been abandoned. H I S T O R Y THE VILLAGE’S LAST YEARS The now 88-year-old Ragnhildur Bergþórsdóttir moved to Viðey with her family in 1928, when she was three months old. “My dad, Bergþór Magnússon, was the last person to leave Stöðin [‘The Station’], as we called the village. He was a farmer—the village’s only farmer—with six cows and a large flock of hens.” The other inhabitants kept animals for self-sufficiency. Ragnhildur, or her siblings, brought the milk and eggs to the larger farm at the center of the island, Viðeyjarbúið, simply called Búið. From there, the milk was sent daily with the farm’s boat to Reykjavík. On days when eggs had to be delivered, the children were given a ride with the boat. “It was the most embarrassing thing I knew, carrying the boxes of eggs to the store. I thought it was so provincial.” In exchange, they brought goods, like coffee, back to the island. They also had some sheep and a patch with potatoes, yellow turnips and rhubarb, and occa- sionally caught fish. P H O TO B Y M A G N Ú S Ó LA FS S O N . C O P Y R IG H T: R E Y K JA V ÍK M U S E U M O F P H O TO G R A P H Y. Viðey village around 1910. Wagons are being pulled by rails to the pier. View of Geldinganes and Esja mountain on the mainland.
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