Reykjavík Grapevine - 01.09.2023, Blaðsíða 10

The Reykjavík Grapevine
Best of Reykjavík 2023
10
ONE OF THE FOOD WONDERS
OF THE WORLD
ICELANDIC LAMB IS THE FIRST ICELANDIC FOOD PRODUCT TO BE PDO-MARKED
Icelandic lamb has acquired the PDO label, the highest level of geographical
indication in Europe, placing it in the company of the world's best-known and
most sought-after quality products.
BEST OF REYKJAVÍK 2023
Dining
Iceland's not cheap, so it had better be good
Best Goddamn Restaurant
Joint winners
Austur-Indíafjelagið
Hverfisgata 56
It doesn’t matter if you are new to Indian cuisine or a seasoned consumer of cur-
ries, this place welcomes you with its warm embrace of Indian teak coffered ceil-
ings, antique bronze and vermillion hued artwork on the walls. While we’ve shared
our love of their tandoori meats, old-timers know that it is the hariyali salmon that
is the dark horse. And if you haven’t yet experienced the joy of a biryani, render that
to the past stat. This is a restaurant where there is more to discover with each visit,
and the exemplary service ensures you keep going back.
La Primavera
Grandagarður 20
It’s no surprise that the best goddamn restaurants in town would be the stalwarts
of Reykjavík. With views overlooking the bustling old harbour and Harpa in the
distance, La Primavera is a sly old creature that is always delightful. No matter what
time of day or year you dine here, you’re sure to have peak season ingredients,
handled with the devotion of someone who deeply understands that good produce
needs so little. So whether it's rare legumes like roveja from northern Italy, is-it-a-
rose or salad conundrum of pink radicchio or the many pasta dishes, Primavera’s
food is only matched by its service.
Skál
Hlemmur Mathöll, Laugavegur 107
With a revamped menu and a drinks programme to match, Skál continues to be the
small place with a big heart; its food hall location is no deterrence for their die-hard
patrons. This year we’ve enjoyed their ice-cold scallops, served sliced, in their
shell. Sometimes, thin slices of rutabaga are tucked between them, others there is
crimson granita of tart berries. Always refreshing. Then there are the fried shrimp
heads with a punchy aioli. The steadfast beets, and butter bathed trout. A crisp
glass of mineral natural wine alongside and you’ve got yourself a banger of a meal
each and every time.
Best Place for a Fancy
Meal
Dill
Laugavegur 59
Now with a green star in addition to
their Michelin star, Dill has steadfastly
steered the country’s culinary ship
towards a future firmly rooted in its tra-
ditions. Chef Gunnar Karl’s dedication to
sustainable kitchen practices is more
than laudable generally, but even more
so in the context of fine dining. Utilising
vegetables and protein in their entirety,
the menu is a celebration of the whole,
eschewing dining diktats that no two
proteins are repeated in one meal. For a
true taste of Icelandic hospitality, Dill is
where you need to be, special occasion
or not.
Runners-up
Tides
The Reykjavík Edition, Austurbakki 2
The Edition has managed to lure the re-
clusive Reykjaviking into its fold, prov-
ing to be the ‘it’ spot. The gorgeously
designed restaurant is more than mere
luxury. “The fat was rendered so skilfully
in the Iberian ham, and so well cooked,
I could taste it long after the meal,”
cooed a very satisfied panellist. The
mocktails are as good as their cocktails
and while the wine menu is priced fairly
steep, you’re bound to find a number
you wouldn’t elsewhere.
Sumac Grill + Drinks
Laugavegur 28
Walking into Sumac recalls being
on food streets in warmer places
elsewhere around the world. The open
grill lends its smokiness to more than
just the food and the buzz of happy
guests make for a vibrant evening
out that is both fancy yet curiously
laid-back. Especially popular with big
groups, it’s best to approach the food
here as a meze and order a little bit of
everything. The flatbreads are the one
sore spot in their otherwise flavour-
some menu.
Previous Winners
2022: Dill
2021: Dill
2020: Grillið
Best Value for Money
Deig
Tryggvagata 18
Deig’s “poor man’s offer” has been
the offer to beat for some time. They
recently upped their price to 1500 ISK
for a toasted and filled bagel of your
choice, plus a doughnut and drink.
Available only on weekdays from 10am
onwards, the price rise hasn’t affected
the quality on offer. While the offer
alone is tempting, the panel urges you
to try one of their special bagels for
the princely sum of 1700 ISK. It’s a steal
on this rocky, windy, expensive as heck
island.
Runners-up
Icelandic Street Food
Lækjargata 8
A family-run business built on their
amma’s recipes, this establishment has
been meeting that “taste of Iceland”
craving that many travellers have.
Unlimited refills of soups — both of the
fish and lamb variety are on offer —
and that sweet deal is best topped off
with a slice of their “happy marriage
cake.” Our astute panel does note that
seasoning is not always their forte, but
a quick sprinkling of salt usually does
the trick.
Flatus
Skúlagata 28
It’s undeniable that Reykjavík is
expensive. But if you dig a little deeper
you’ll find attractive deals like the beer
and pizza lunch at Flatus for 2000 ISK. A
10” pizza, frosty beer, views over Esja.
What’s not to like?
Previous Winners
2022: Deig
2021: Sægrefinn
2020: Icelandic Street Food