Reykjavík Grapevine - 01.09.2023, Blaðsíða 18

The Reykjavík Grapevine
Best of Reykjavík 2023
18
Contrary to popular belief, break-
fast is a fairly modern concept of
a meal. Morning meals and their
popularity has ebbed and flowed
depending on political circum-
stance, religious beliefs of the
day, or in more recent history, an
artificially created panic (looking
at you, Kelloggs).
Breakfast hasn’t really been a
grand affair in Iceland, save for
the advent of boxed cereal and
the subsequent pat on the back
pride for consuming the most Co-
coa Puffs. Per capita, of course.
Articles from the 1980’s reflect
changing habits, with many re-
spondents referring to porridge,
as ‘old-fashioned food, not in tune
with the modern breakfast of cof-
fee and toast.’
It is no surprise, then, that this
breakfast modesty translates to
a similar dynamic on the high
street. While bakeries and some
cafes cater to that coffee-bread
craving, breakfast is still some-
what of a unicorn in town, albeit
a cookie cutter one.
Don’t be fooled by the numer-
ous brunches on offer; breakfast
and brunch are solemnly distinct.
There is a languid pleasure in a
sit-down breakfast. Take the ev-
eryday mundane and plop it in the
midst of a mid-week outing, and
the routine is at once decadent.
We put our best foot forward over
several mornings to sniff out the
best breakfasts Reykjavík has to
offer.
Grái Kötturinn
Hverfisgata 16a
8:00-14:00 daily
The first place to offer breakfast
in Iceland (since 1997!), The Grey
Cat is a legend alright. Regulars
reminisce about the best hang-
over fix. Walking in feels like you
are at grandma’s place, the air is
heady with the smell of sizzling
bacon and the low murmurs of
early birds. The Truck (3500 ISK)
is a grand feast for one — two
sunny side-up eggs, a hunk of
homemade toast, an Iceland-ap-
propriate slab of butter, mini
pancakes, bundle of bacon, some
pan roasted potatoes and toma-
toes alongside, all meant to be
drenched with the accompany-
ing maple syrup. They make their
own bagels and tuna salad, if you
are so inclined, but really you are
here for one and one thing only.
Children-friendly portions are
offered, a thoughtful touch we
appreciate. OJ is available in both
its fresh squeezed and canned av-
atars and out of all the places I vis-
ited, they had the best tea service
– loose English breakfast, sugar
and milk on the side. The only
thing that is better than home-
made breakfast is breakfast that
tastes like it, but one you didn’t
have to make. That sentiment is
served in spades here.
Tóst by Vínstúkan
Laugavegur 27
8:00-13:00, Mon - Fri;
9:00-14:00 weekends
Time share of restaurant spaces
is a phenomenon to be celebrat-
ed. While bakeries turning into
restaurants isn’t unheard of, Vin-
stukan takes it one step further
by being a breakfast cafe in the
morning and a bustling wine bar
come evening. This is one place
where they take their service as
seriously as their food. On one
occasion, our inadvertently long
wait for waffles was rewarded
with a hefty discount and OJ on
the house. Speaking of which,
their Scandi loyal, heart shaped
ones (800 ISK) are peak twee de-
liciousness. Even their sourdough
tósts (1800 ISK) are appropriately
sliced bread topped with home-
made stracciatella and jam, or
pan-fried portobello shrooms and
nuts, or our favourite – smoked
salmon with avocado. Their pro-
portions allow for gentle break-
fast vibes rather than the brutal
arm-wrestling match one has
to otherwise endure (looking at
you brunch staple benedicts). Tóst
also sits on a little known secret,
freshly brewed filter coffee (500
ISK) with ‘fancy-pants beans from
some fancy pants place that tastes
like sour nectar’ as my husband
mildly put it. And the overnight
oats (950 ISK)? I’d leave the no-ef-
fort trudge for IG influencers and
head straight here for the nutty
extravaganza.
Deig
Tryggvagata 14
7:00-16:00 daily
We don’t place this bakery-ish
joint here lightly. Between Grái
Kotturin’s dedicated breakfast
focus and the bakeries with their
baked-from-frozen wares, break-
fast has been largely overlooked
in this city. That was until Deig
decided to shake things up and
offer made-from-scratch savoury
and sweet treats that would warm
the most jaded diner. Their poor
man’s offer may be their most
well known, but we are weak for
their lightly toasted bagels filled
with an assortment of fillings
(chances are there is something
for everyone). The 7 a.m. calm is
a particularly delightful seating,
as the fight for the large window
high seats hasn’t begun yet and it
is just you and your trusty bagel.
Our top pick — the Madonna (1790
ISK), grilled bell peppers and a
McMuffin style egg, melty ched-
dar cheese and swoosh of mayo,
is the perfect way to fuel your day.
Sandholt
Laugavegur 36
7:00-18:00 daily
Call ahead and pre-book a table
at Sandholt and the long line is a
thing of the past. While the leg-
endary bakery is known for its
laminated, buttery delights, don’t
sleep on the hot, fresh breakfast
served everyday. Children under
12 eat for free, kind of a well-kept
secret. If you can put up with the
fickle service, you are in for a sub-
lime treat. Coffee and chocolate
lovers can break their fast a la no-
bility from the Renaissance. The
waffles (2490 ISK) stacked with
fried eggs, bacon and syrup is a
textural delight, but may we steer
you towards the savoury waffles
instead, studded with teeny jala-
peno and parsley bits. Practically
every dish is super-sized – the
simple sourdough toast with jam
and butter (1150 ISK) will easily
feed two.
FOOD
Breakfast Like A
Queen In Reykjavik
Move over brunch, breakfast is in town
Words: Shruthi Basappa Photo: Art Bicnick
www.thelaundromatcafe.com
NOT TO BRAG ......... BUT :)
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