Reykjavík Grapevine - 01.12.2006, Blaðsíða 15

Chaplin’s Genius Meets
A Finely Tuned Orchestra
RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE18_006_DESIGN AND MUSIC_B11B10_RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE18_006_ULTIMATE SURVIVAL GUIDE
The aluminium smelter in Straumsvík, the
slogan “Kanamella” (Yankee-whore) printed
over a picture of Iceland, and a portrait of
former Minister of Industry and Trade and
current Foreign Minister, Valgerður Sver-
risdóttir, can now be seen on the chest of
conscious locals who have caught on to the
web-based t-shirt store www.howdoyou-
likeiceland.is. Loving its black humour and
critical, yet comic speculations regarding Ice-
land’s reality, the company, established ear-
lier this year, has been growing steadily. The
Grapevine met with Þórður Snær Júlíusson
and Orri Guðjónsson to learn more about
their political messages.
“When me and Orri went on a backpack-
ing trip around the world we started see-
ing Iceland in a different light and thought
it would be funny to grasp all its flaws and
cheesy elements by printing them on t-shirts,
with the slogan, How Do You Like Iceland?”
Þórður tells me.
Some of the t-shirt slogans are popular
catch-phrases translated into English, mak-
ing no sense whatsoever in that language.
The phrase I Stand on the Duck (a direct
translation of Ég stend á öndinni) is a good
example, which more idiomatically translates
to: I am breathless.
“All these typical Icelandic phrases are
very uncool, especially when you translate
them word for word. Then they lose all
meaning but become quite funny. With the
t-shirts, we want to celebrate all the distinc-
tive features Iceland has and show that the
county is not all the glamour we’re selling
to tourists. Buying t-shirts like ours, you are
buying a piece of the society as it is today and
a part of the common discussion, instead of
some sort of stereotypical memories,” Þórður
explains. He goes on to add, “Take heavy in-
dustry for example. Fewer things have been
more debated in Iceland. That’s why we
printed the aluminium smelter in Straumsvík
on a t-shirt. It’s one of the first landmarks
tourists notice when driving from Keflavík
to Reykjavík. And Sverrisdóttir, she has to be
noted as the face of Iceland’s heavy industry.
Sverrisdóttir is also an elegant woman, which
belongs on a t-shirt.”
Getting ideas for new designs hasn’t
been difficult, as the Icelandic government,
politicians and the general public are just giv-
ing away subjects to tackle.
“The government is constantly making
mistakes, which gives us both ideas and mo-
tivation to point them out so they get to live
longer than the split second they get in the
media,” Þórður says. “Our newest addition,
the phrase-shirt Neither A Bird Nor A Fish,
where we string together a puffin and cod-
fish, could be connected with Árni Johnsen
for example. He is neither a bird nor a fish,
he likes puffins and this puffin-cod creature
might be called a technical error, right? But
in all seriousness we want to remind people
about how we are sometimes being screwed
over,” Þórður says and designer Orri agrees:
“We have many ideas and believe that
with the t-shirts we can keep the discussion
alive and hopefully change society for the
better. Now it’s just a question of manufac-
turing more t-shirts.”
“We could even call ourselves the com-
munity service project How Do You Like Ice-
land?” Þórður adds.
While planning a shopping-mania shirt
for Christmas and preparing for a fashion
show in Luxembourg, they would also like to
encourage other designers to contact them
with ideas for a new line. The t-shirts are
now available at the website www.howdoy-
oulikeiceland.is with plans for further outlets
in the future.
Hot Spring River This River?
(Or: Who’s Sheep is This?)
Text by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Photo by Skari
Now, it is generally accepted that in films,
music has a very specific purpose. It is meant
to enhance and complement the mood the
director is trying to establish, and can con-
tribute greatly to the overall experience of
the film, even to the extent of determining
whether it is any good or not. As it is a back-
ground element rather than a focal point, it
is often stated that film music is at its best
when it blends in with the atmosphere to
the point of being unnoticeable. All of this
makes attending a concert where the Icelan-
dic Symphony Orchestra performs the score
to two silent Chaplin movies consecutively a
questionable task – although it turned out to
be a highly enjoyable one.
Performing to a theatre packed with
family types out for a relaxed Saturday af-
ternoon at the cinema, the 45-piece orches-
tra prepared itself onstage until conductor
Frank Strobel made his appearance. After a
brief comic introduction, Chaplin’s Idle Class
started rolling on the silver screen while the
orchestra ran through the director-penned
score. Highly befitting of a 1920s silent
comedy, the music had a playful quality to
it, with the percussionists often adding gag
sound effects to augment the various on-
screen shenanigans – timing them perfectly
for the most part. It quickly became appar-
ent that the orchestra was taking great joy in
their task, and such performances are always
delightful to witness.
When the lights turned low and one’s at-
tention focused on Charlie Chaplin’s comic
genius, it was often all too easy to forget that
the orchestra was even there (in part due to
its accomplished sense of timing). When I
was properly immersed in the movie and its
plot, I frequently had to remind myself why
I had come in the first place; the music was
flawlessly executed and sounded so good
that it might as well have been coming from
the theatre’s high quality sound system. The
only tell-tale signs that this was in fact a live
performance by Iceland’s classical elite were
the rare occasions when they fumbled and
drew one’s attention away from Chaplin’s
plateau.
Nevertheless, after mulling this over while
the latter movie, The Kid, was beginning, I
came to the conclusion that the orchestra did
indeed give off a certain warmth of tone and
general mood special to the performance.
I divided my attention between the perfor-
mance and the movie throughout the course
of The Kid (which has a very engaging plot)
and came to the conclusion that this was a
worthy endeavour for the orchestra to em-
bark upon, not the least since it seemed to
be drawing children who wouldn’t normally
get exposed to this kind of music.
As for myself, I couldn’t help but wish
I had chosen some other performance to
properly acquaint myself with the obviously
competent orchestra. Maybe the film score
plays a larger part in silent movies than our
modern-day talkies, and witnessing it per-
formed live is certainly a novelty. I still feel
that the movies in question somewhat drew
away from the pleasure to be had from ex-
periencing a finely tuned and powerful or-
chestra, and will certainly need to venture
there again to witness what the orchestra is
capable of at its best.
Text by Haukur S. Magnússon Photo by Skari
Services
Useful Numbers
Emergency number: 112
Police: 569 9000
Medical help: 1770
Dental emergency: 575 0505
AA: 551 2010
Information: 118
Telegrams: 146
Tax Free Refund
Iceland Refund,
Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 564 6400
www.icelandrefund.com
Laundry Service
HI Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34,
Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is
Úðafoss, Vitastígur 13,
Tel: 551 2301, www.udafoss.is
Post Office
Post offices are located around the
city as well as in the countryside.
The downtown post office is at
Pósthússtræti 3-5. For a full list and
info on opening hours visit www.
posturinn.is.
Stamps are also sold in bookstores,
gas stations, some grocery stores and
tourist shops.
Embassies and Consulates
in Iceland
United States, Laufásvegur 21,
Tel: 562 9100
United Kingdom, Laufásvegur 31,
Tel: 550 5100
Russia, Garðastræti 33,
Tel: 551 5156
China, Víðimelur 29,
Tel: 552 6751
For a full list visit Ministry for Foreign
Affairs: www.mfa.is/diplomatic-mis-
sions/icelandic-missions/
Internet Access
Most coffeehouses have wireless
Internet access.
Computers with Internet connections
are available at:
Ráðhúskaffi City Hall, Tjarnargata 11
BSÍ Bus Terminal,
Vatnsmýrarvegur 10
Ground Zero, Vallarstræti 10
The Reykjavík City Library,
Tryggvagata 15
The National and University Li-
brary, Arngrímsgata 3
Tourist Information Centre,
Aðalstræti 2
Icelandic Travel Market: Bankastræti 2
Opening hours
Bars and clubs: According to regula-
tions bars may be open until 01:00 on
weekdays and 05:30 on weekends.
Shops: Mon-Fri 10-18, Sat 10-16, Sun
closed. The shopping centres Kringlan
and Smáralind as well as most super-
markets and tourist shops have longer
opening hours.
Swimming pools: weekdays
06:30-22:30, weekends 08:00-20:30
although some may be open an hour
longer.
The State owned ÁTVR liquor
stores: Mon-Thu 11-18, Fri 11-19, Sat
11-18.
Banks in the centre are open Mon-Fri
09-16.
Getting Around
Public transport
The only public transport system in
Reykjavík is the bus. Most busses run
every 20 minutes and price per fare is
250 ISK for adults and 75 ISK for chil-
dren. Complete route map at: www.
bus.is. Tel: 540 2700
Busses run from 07:00-24:00 on
weekdays and 10:00-24:00 on week-
ends
Rent a bike
Borgarhjól, Hverfisgata 50,
Tel: 551 5653, www.borgarhjol.net
HI Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34,
Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is
Tourist Information Centre,
Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550,
www.visitreykjavik.is
Taxi
Hreyfill-Bæjarleiðir,
Tel: 553 3500 or 588 5522
BSR, Tel: 561 0000
For disabled travellers
Reykjavík Group Travel Service,
Brunastaðir 3, Tel: 587 8030, www.
randburg.com/is/reykjavik_group_trav-
el_service/
A useful brochure, Accessible Reykja-
vík, can be found at tourist offices.
Car rentals
Átak Car Rental, Smiðjuvegur 1,
Tel: 554 6040
ALP, Dugguvogur 10, Tel: 562 6060
Avis, Knarravogi 2, Tel: 591 4000
Eurocar, Hjallahraun 9, Tel: 565 3800
A.G Car Rental, Tangarhöfði 8-12.
Tel: 587 5544
Atlas Car Rental, Dalshraun 9,
Tel: 565 3800
Berg Car Rental, Tangarhöfða 8,
Tel: 577 6050
Hertz, Flugvallavegur, Tel: 505 0600
Airlines
Air Iceland, Reykjavíkurflugvöllur,
Tel: 570 3030, www.flugfelag.is
Air Vestmannaeyjar, Tel: 481 3255,
www.eyjaflug.is
Bus Terminal
BSÍ, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10,
Tel: 562 1011, www.bsi.is
Samferda.net
A reasonable choice for the budget
traveller. You log on to the website
www.samferda.net, choose your
destination and hopefully find a travel
buddy to share the cost.
The Intercultural Centre
The Intercultural Centre throws oc-
casional cultural events and confer-
ences but its main purpose is to be an
information and counselling centre
and serve as an advocate for the rights
of immigrants in Iceland.
Hverfisgata 18, Tel: 530 9300
www.ahus.is
Icelandic Travel Market
Bankastræti 2, Tel: 510 5700,
www.kleif.is
Information on day tours, accommo-
dations, car rental and everything else
you need to know when travelling in
Iceland.
Iceland Visitor
Lækjargata 2, Tel: 511 2442,
www.icelandvisitor.com
A travel agency offering travelling
package trips and custom-made tours
as well as car rental, day tours and
accommodations for visitors.
Tourist Information Centre
Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550,
www.visitreykjavik.is
Offers information for tourists as well
as providing internet access, booking
service, a phone centre, money ex-
change service, tax refund and selling
the Reykjavík Tourist Card. The Reykja-
vík Tourist Card gives admission to city
busses, various museums, Reykjavík
swimming pools, The Family Park and
Reykjavík Zoo, The Culture House and
the National and University Library.
The Icelandic Tourist Board
Lækjargata 3, Tel: 535 5500,
www.visiticeland.com
All information needed before travel-
ling in Iceland.
Goethe Institute
Túngata 14, Tel: 561 5921,
www.goethe.de/island
A cultural institute that offers movie
screenings, lectures and German
language courses.
Nordic House
Sturlugata 5, Tel: 551 7030,
www.nordice.is
The Nordic cultural centre organises
various cultural events, conferences
and exhibitions.
All major tourist spots in Reykjavík also
offer brochures, maps and information
for travellers.
Useful Information
Where to learn Icelandic as a
foreign language
Icelandic on the Internet,
www.vefskoli.is
Mímir Continuing Education,
Skeifán 8, Tel: 580 1800, www.mimir.is
Námsflokkar Reykjavíkur,
Fríkirkjuvegur 1, Tel: 551 2992
Fjölmenning, Laugavegur 59,
Tel: 511 1319, www.fjolmenning.is
The Icelandic College of Engineer-
ing and Technology, Höfðabakki 9,
Tel: 577 1400, www.thi.is
Iðnskólinn í Reykjavík,
Skólavörðuholti, Tel: 552 6240,
www.ir.is
The University of Iceland – Depart-
ment of Continuing Education,
Dunhagi 7, Tel: 525 4924,
www.endurmenntun.is
Religious movements
The national church in Iceland is the
Evangelical Lutheran Church. Masses
are generally held on Sundays at 11:00
in churches all around the capital.
Service in English is at Hallgrímskirkja
every last Saturday each month, start-
ing at 14:00. The Roman Catholic
Church also has masses in English and
Polish.
Other religious movements in Reykja-
vík are for example:
The Muslim Association of Iceland,
Ármúli 38
Ásatrú Association, Grandagarði 8
Bahá’í, Álfabakka 12
The Church of Evangelism,
Hlíðasmári 9
The Icelandic Buddhist Movement,
Víghólastígur 21
Reykjavík Free Lutheran Church,
Fríkirkjuvegur 5
Pentecostal Assembly, Hátún 2
Roman Catholic Church,
Hávallagata 14
Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-
Day Saints, Ásabraut 2
Jehovah’s Witnesses, Sogavegur 71
Seventh-Day Adventists,
Suðurhlíð 36

Zen Buddhism in Iceland,
Reykjavíkurvegur 31
Independent Church,
Háteigsvegur 101
The Russian Orthodox Church in
Iceland, Sólvallagata 10
The Cross, Hlíðasmári 5-7
Trade Unions
The Icelandic Federation of Labour,
Sætún 1, Tel: 535 5600, www.asi.is
The Federation of State and Mu-
nicipal employees, Grettisgata 89,
Tel: 525 8300, www.bsrb.is
The Association of Academics, Bor-
gartún 6, Tel: 581 2090, www.bhm.is
Efling, Sætún 1, Tel: 510 7500,
www.efling.is
The Commercial Workers’ Union,
Kringlan 7, Tel: 510 1700, www.vr.is
Union of Public Servants, Grettis-
gata 89, Tel: 525 8340, www.sfr.is
Useful Websites
www.visitreykjavik.is (The official
tourist website of Reykjavík)
www.gayice.is (Information about
the gay scene in Iceland)
www.fjolmenningarsetur.is
(The Multicultural Centre)
www.hostel.is
(Hostel International in Iceland)
www.vinnumalastofnun.is
(Public employment services)
www.gulalinan.is (The yellow pages)
www.leigulistinn.is (Rent a flat)
www.simaskra.is
(Icelandic telephone directory)
Where to get Work and residence permit: The
Directorate of Immigration, Skógarhlíð
6, Tel: 510 5400, www.utl.is.
Insurance and benefits: The State
Social Security Institute, Laugavegur
114-116, Tel: 560 4400, www.tr.is
Icelandic citizenship: Unless you
come from a Nordic country, foreign
citizens have to have had an unre-
stricted residence permit in Iceland for
at least seven years in order to get an
Icelandic citizenship although some
exceptions exist to that general rule.
Applications are at the Ministry of
Justice and Ecclesiastical Affairs,
Skuggasund, Tel: 545 9000,
www.domsmalaraduneyti.is
Unemployment benefits: Director-
ate of Labour, Public Employment
Service, Tryggvagata 17, Tel: 515 4800,
www.vinnumalastofnun.is
Icelandic social security number
(kennitala): National Register, Bor-
gartún 30, Tel: 560 9800,
www.hagstofa.is
Driver’s license: Those who have a
foreign license don’t need an Icelandic
one for the first six months. After that
time you have one month to apply for
an Icelandic driver’s license. Applica-
tions are at police stations.
Tax card: Tax office, Laugavegur 166,
Tel: 563 1100, www.rsk.is
Rent subsidies: Social Service Office,
Tryggvagata 17, Tel: 411 9000 www.
felagsthjonustan.is
Facts on Iceland
Iceland is a constitutional repub-
lic with slightly more than 300,000
inhabitants. Reykjavík has been the
country’s capital since 1786 and today
almost two-thirds of the population
live in the greater capital area.
The 17th of June 1944 Iceland
became an independent republic.
That day is the national holiday and is
celebrated all around the country.
Alþingi, the national parliament,
is the oldest assembly in the world,
established at Þingvellir in 930 but
restored in Reykjavík in 1844. The par-
liament is comprised of 63 members,
who are elected by popular vote every
four years. Icelandic citizens over 18
years of age have the legal right to
vote.
Parliamentary elections were last
held in 2003 with 33.7 percent of
votes going to the Independence
Party. The Social Democratic Alliance
got 31 percent, the Progressive Party
17.7 percent, the Leftist-Greens 8.8
percent and the Liberal Party 7.4 per-
cent. The Independence Party and the
Progressive Party formed a coalition
and together lead the government.
Iceland has 12 ministers with the
prime minister and head of govern-
ment being Geir H. Haarde, who is
also chairman of the Independence
Party. The President of Iceland is Ólafur
Ragnar Grímsson, who has been in
office since 1996. He is the Chief of
State although his duties are mostly
ceremonial.
Time Zone: GMT 0
Currency: Íslensk króna (ISK).
International Dialling Code: +354
Weather: Average temperature dur-
ing summer is around 10ºC and winter
0ºC. For information on weather in
Iceland visit www.vedur.is or Tel: 902
0600.
Cultural Centres and
Tourist Offices