Reykjavík Grapevine - 04.08.2008, Síða 30

30 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 10—2008
DESTINATION By Zoë roBert — pHotoS By Zoë roBert
From the moment our journey begins as we leave Reykjavík
and drive through the suburbs, Sævar is sure not to miss
details on everything from Kringlan shopping mall and
Iceland’s tallest building to the country’s energy sector and
recent events in the news – they’re all on the agenda.
Life in the Age of Settlement
After being on the road for an hour or so, we make
our first pit stop at Selfoss to grab a snack and pick up some
additional passengers. The 14-strong tour group, consisting
mostly of tourists from Europe, are all on their first trip to the
southern highlands. I sleep through the next part of the drive
until our first stop, after venturing off Route 1, at Hljáparfoss
waterfall in the Þjórsárdalur Valley. By now, the weather has
cleared up and the cool waters of the symmetrical twin falls’
underlying pool and adjoining river are tempting. And I’m
not the only one thinking about taking a dip, but there isn’t
time.
Back on the road, we pass a nearby hydropower plant,
an example, our guide tells us, of the way power plants are
unobtrusively built into the existing environment in Iceland,
though I’m not sure everyone would agree. Just down the
road is the reconstructed medieval farmhouse where we take
a short break from the road. The house was built to celebrate
1100 years of settlement in Iceland and is a near replica of
an excavated ruin of the farm Stöng, and of the kind which
existed during the Commonwealth period from 930 to 1262.
We’re told the original farm was covered in thick layers of
volcanic ash when Hekla erupted in 1104. The lopapeysa-
clad museum guide tells us that the building’s main room
is where the community worked, warmed themselves by
the fire and slept. Apparently, around 30 to 40 people lived
together on the farm and all but the chief and his wife, who
slept in a private bed closet with their weapons guarded
closely, slept on the hard wooden benches by the open fire.
After wandering around the farmhouse and the
adjacent church, trying to get a sense of what life must have
been like, we return to the road. We make our way up the
painfully bumpy road leading to Landmannalaugar, past a
lake so still that the scenes of the surrounding mountains are
mirrored into its waters, and on to the rather inaptly named
Ljótipollur or “Ugly Pond” crater lake, with its aquamarine
waters that contrast with the earthy tones of its banks. Up
the amazing landscaPe oFFers endless Photogenic views
Hot Springs and Mountains
of Many colours
It is an overcast, cold day when I arrive at
the BSÍ bus terminal and board the mini
bus along with 11 others for the early Sun-
day morning guided tour of Landmannal-
augar and the “Saga Valley”. The forecast
is for a warm, sunny day, but despite all
evidence to the contrary, our driver Sævar
is optimistic, proclaiming his faith in Ice-
land’s temperamental weather gods.
Daytrip to Landmannalaugar and the Saga Valley
Viking feasts every night
- live entertainment
“You haven't been in Iceland if you haven't been to us“ ' '
For booking and
further information:
Tel.: +354 565-1213
www.vikingvillage.is
vikings@vikingvillage.is
Strandgata 55 Hafnarfjordur
Don’t miss it!
AUX-
PANKRAKK-BOT
A
MF
JBRÛTAL
OBER
DADA
VON
FALK
30. 7. ‘08.
kl. 21:00 free ad-
mission
V í k i n
Reykjavik
Maritime Museum
V í k i n
Grandagarði 8 - 101 Reykjavík
Tel: 517 9400
Open daily from 11am to 5pm
Closed Mondays
w w w . s j o m i n j a s a f n . i s
L i v i n g M u s e u m b y t h e S e a