Reykjavík Grapevine - 04.08.2008, Blaðsíða 30

Reykjavík Grapevine - 04.08.2008, Blaðsíða 30
30 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 10—2008 DESTINATION By Zoë roBert — pHotoS By Zoë roBert From the moment our journey begins as we leave Reykjavík and drive through the suburbs, Sævar is sure not to miss details on everything from Kringlan shopping mall and Iceland’s tallest building to the country’s energy sector and recent events in the news – they’re all on the agenda. Life in the Age of Settlement After being on the road for an hour or so, we make our first pit stop at Selfoss to grab a snack and pick up some additional passengers. The 14-strong tour group, consisting mostly of tourists from Europe, are all on their first trip to the southern highlands. I sleep through the next part of the drive until our first stop, after venturing off Route 1, at Hljáparfoss waterfall in the Þjórsárdalur Valley. By now, the weather has cleared up and the cool waters of the symmetrical twin falls’ underlying pool and adjoining river are tempting. And I’m not the only one thinking about taking a dip, but there isn’t time. Back on the road, we pass a nearby hydropower plant, an example, our guide tells us, of the way power plants are unobtrusively built into the existing environment in Iceland, though I’m not sure everyone would agree. Just down the road is the reconstructed medieval farmhouse where we take a short break from the road. The house was built to celebrate 1100 years of settlement in Iceland and is a near replica of an excavated ruin of the farm Stöng, and of the kind which existed during the Commonwealth period from 930 to 1262. We’re told the original farm was covered in thick layers of volcanic ash when Hekla erupted in 1104. The lopapeysa- clad museum guide tells us that the building’s main room is where the community worked, warmed themselves by the fire and slept. Apparently, around 30 to 40 people lived together on the farm and all but the chief and his wife, who slept in a private bed closet with their weapons guarded closely, slept on the hard wooden benches by the open fire. After wandering around the farmhouse and the adjacent church, trying to get a sense of what life must have been like, we return to the road. We make our way up the painfully bumpy road leading to Landmannalaugar, past a lake so still that the scenes of the surrounding mountains are mirrored into its waters, and on to the rather inaptly named Ljótipollur or “Ugly Pond” crater lake, with its aquamarine waters that contrast with the earthy tones of its banks. Up the amazing landscaPe oFFers endless Photogenic views Hot Springs and Mountains of Many colours It is an overcast, cold day when I arrive at the BSÍ bus terminal and board the mini bus along with 11 others for the early Sun- day morning guided tour of Landmannal- augar and the “Saga Valley”. The forecast is for a warm, sunny day, but despite all evidence to the contrary, our driver Sævar is optimistic, proclaiming his faith in Ice- land’s temperamental weather gods. Daytrip to Landmannalaugar and the Saga Valley Viking feasts every night - live entertainment “You haven't been in Iceland if you haven't been to us“ ' ' For booking and further information: Tel.: +354 565-1213 www.vikingvillage.is vikings@vikingvillage.is Strandgata 55 Hafnarfjordur Don’t miss it! AUX- PANKRAKK-BOT A MF JBRÛTAL OBER DADA VON FALK 30. 7. ‘08. kl. 21:00 free ad- mission V í k i n Reykjavik Maritime Museum V í k i n Grandagarði 8 - 101 Reykjavík Tel: 517 9400 Open daily from 11am to 5pm Closed Mondays w w w . s j o m i n j a s a f n . i s L i v i n g M u s e u m b y t h e S e a
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