Reykjavík Grapevine - 04.08.2008, Qupperneq 31

REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 10—2008 | 31
“They put on such a
beautiful meal for us.
We had the most
amazing freshest fish I've
ever had in my life.
It was all so perfectly
cooked too...Beautiful!”
Jamie Oliver’s Diary
Free of charge.
do not make your
next pass the last
Icelandic roads are narrow
here we get a 360-degree panoramic view of the underlying
areas, with each direction offering a sample of the varied
landscapes and colours of the area.
Bathing in a Natural Pool
We drive on to Landmannalaugar where we catch
our first glimpse of the stunning diversity of the colourful
mountains. To reach the camp area, the driver skilfully
traverses the minibus over a series of river passes. At the
base camp the group is left to spend the next three hours as
they wish and most of us head straight out on the 90 minute
trail into the lava fields of Laugahraun above.
The diversity in shape of the mountains at
Landmannalaugar is only matched by their variety in colour,
a combination which has led visitors to often describe as
eerie and reminiscent of the fantastical scenery featured in
Tolkien. The mountains apparently take their many colours
– black, blue, brown, green, grey, orange, pink, purple, red,
white and yellow – from the igneous rock rich in silica known
as rhyolite. The silvery shimmer of jagged rocks spread out
in the vast lava field contrast with the pastels of the ryholite
mountains. Further along, after a short ascent, hot water
and steam bubble up through vents in the earth and the
unmistakable rotten-egg smell of sulphur greets us when we
most need a breather. There are still pockets of snow here
and the path crosses several sections of the melting slush.
My main observation is that throughout the whole
walk, and despite the phenomenally good weather with
temperatures of around 20°C, we pass only a handful of
others on the trail. With the base in view, we pass a pen of
horses, which we hear can be hired for riding in the area.
But I’m more keen on trying out the hot springs. On
my way along the wooden path over the boggy banks of
the stream leading to the hot springs, I spot a warning sign
lying uprooted in the mud. I overhear the couple in front
mention something about parasites in the water. More eager
to finally experience bathing in a natural hot spring than
concerned about bugs, I ignore the sign and join the others
in the soothing waters. Later, I check the warning sign on my
way back to the bus. It reads that it is strongly recommended
against bathing in the pool due to the presence of duck
parasites. Later I read that while the parasites can be
dangerous to birds, scientists disagree about how serious the
bites can be, and some fear that they can adapt to the human
neuro system. Not particularly comforting, though I’m still
not feeling the “swimmer’s itch” they supposedly cause.
After a very long day, we head back towards the
capital, after admiring the sweeping views of snow-covered
Hekla. When we reach the road from Selfoss, it’s congested
with bumper-to-bumper traffic all the way back to the city.
Having been one of the busiest travel weekends of the year,
with thousands of people now returning from the annual
horse festival in the south, as well as folk generally taking
advantage of the great weather, heavy traffic was predicted –
Sævar says it’s the most traffic he’s experienced in his history
as a driver.
Despite having visited Landmannalaugar, one of the
country’s most popular destinations, in mid-summer, we
were still able to experience this magnificent area in relative
solitude. Next time, I’ve decided, I’ll be attempting the famed
four day hike from Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk.
steam bubbles through vents in landmannalaugar
DAYTRIP
Summer departures on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday
at 8:00
Price: 14.100 ISK
ACCOMMODATION
Camping sites in the nature reserve area are at
Landmannalaugar, Landmannahellir and Hrafntinnu-
sker. The Iceland Touring Association rents out bunks
and sleepingbag accommodations in small huts in
Landmannalaugar and on the Laugavegur trail.
For more info see: www.fi.is.
TRIP PROvIDED bY
Reykjavík Excursions
Tel: 562 1011
www.re.is