Reykjavík Grapevine - 14.08.2009, Síða 31

Reykjavík Grapevine - 14.08.2009, Síða 31
Opened earlier this year, Íslenski Barinn (The Icelandic bar) is a mid- range restaurant serving Icelandic food, bistro style. With a purposely cheesy brand, cosy décor and a roofed terrace, it caters for 20-something beer drinkers (stocking all Icelandic beers) and tourists. The menu combines Icelandic ingredients with ambition, plus the usual plokkfiskur and meat soup, all for a fair price. My date started off with a lamb carpaccio plate that he did not order. The mistake was quickly and politely rectified, and he got to bite into his mixed game plate (1480 ISK) of puffin, goose and hangikjöt (tar smoked lamb—not game, in fact) with strawberries, raspberries and blueberries. He began his liquid courses with a bottle of Jökull from Snaefellsnes. I started off with a bottle of El Grillo, a beer brewed in Seydisfjördur, named for a famous a shipwreck off the Eastcoast of Iceland. All three were good. For the main, I had reindeer burger with jellied red onions, and blue cheese (1760 ISK). It was large, fluffy and slightly sloppy, which caused trouble for a small-mouthed eater. The blue cheese sadly covered any extra flavour that the reindeer meat may have brought. The fries where crunchy, fresh and delicious, well above average and authentically served with cocktail sauce (Iceland’s contribution to burger culture, a mixture of ketchup and mayonnaise that kills the sharpness of ketchup and the freshness of mayonnaise). Thankfully, ketchup is also available. My date chose a slow-cooked shank of lamb (2620 ISK) with mashed potatoes and gravy. The shank was of an impressive size, and whilst the flavours were nothing spectacular the dish did provide a hearty portion of meat and potatoes. The slow- cooked label led to disappointment though, promising a melt in the mouth experience which the course did not offer. For dessert, I tried Hjónabandssæla (wedding bliss) rhubarb cake (590 ISK), thus named for being an easy cake to make that it will ensure a happy marriage even if the wife’s strengths do not lie in the kitchen. The Íslenski barinn version came without crunch or the traditional cross-pattern, but a softer doughy touch and a heap of cream—needless to say, it was good. My date finished off the meal with a bottle of Móri, a red ale. Of the three beers, we found by consensus Jökull to be the best one, with the Móri offering a welcome alternative to the lighter lagers most common in this country. Íslenski barinn’s trashy branding deceives. If you make it through the hideous facade, the place offers an easygoing, moderately priced meal in a surprisingly cosy environment. If the food had been kept a little simpler, without the fancy names or wasted ingredients, our expectations would not have been dashed by what was in truth some good honest grub. - SARI PELTONEN COFFEE 1 Kaffismidja Íslands Kárastigur 1 Kaffismidja Íslands, run by coffee judging superstar Sonja Björk Grant and barista champion Imma Sigurdardóttir, serves and roasts the best coffee in town. 2 Kaffivagninn Grandagardi 10 An old fishermen’s hangout by the piers. Ideally combined with an early morning walk by the old Reykjavik harbour, they open at 7 am daily. Here, the coffee is as black as it gets—for cappuccinos go elsewhere... 3 Te og Kaffi Laugavegur 27 For example to Te og Kaffi, a café chain and roastery. If you get lucky, your latte art is poured by Pálmar Þór Hlöðversson, the Icelandic Barista Champion 2008 and 2009. CAKE 1 Sufistinn Ída bookstore, Laekjargata. Home-made monster cakes—think meringue, chocolate and immense sugar rushes. Star of the moment is the all-Icelandic granola cake. 2 Sandholt Laugavegur 36 Passion cheese cake to die for, plus a good assortment of buns, rolls, chocolate and ice cream to drool over. Sandholt is a good bet for stocking up ahead of a picnic in the park. BEER 1 Karamba Laugavegur 22 Relatively new hotspot in town Karamba is a colourful and eclectic bar on with an über comfortable atmosphere, typically great music and a chill crowd. This is a good place to relax or to do some serious drinking or to relax. Plus, their decors are done strictly by Grapevine-friendly artists, such as Lóa (who does our comics), Hugleikur Dagsson (who also does our comics) and Bobby Breiðholt (who’s done a lot of nice illustrations for us); they are truly a sight to behold. 2 Kaffi Zimsen Hafnarstræti 18 This is a great place for beer. They have specials on the stuff pretty much every night of the week – two for one on Mondays! – and they’re the only joint in town offering those self-serve 3 litre beer towers if you’re drinking in a group or really thirsty or a fan of buying your beer in bulk. Plus, if you like to sit while drinking your beer, Zimsen has lots of chairs and roomy booths for your lounging pleasure. For full restaurant and food listings and venue finder visit www.grapevine.is for detailed information. VEGETARIAN CUISINE Skólavörðustígur 8 b, tel. 552 2028 Open from 11:30 am–21:00 pm www.graennkostur.is We exceed high expectations Open for bistro style lunch every day from 11.30–14.00 and dinner wednesday to saturday from 19.00–22.00 Nordic House, Sturlugata 5, 101 Reykjavik, Tel. 6185071/8939693, www.dillrestaurant.is Flavour: Icelandic Ambiance: relaxed bistro with Icelandic soundtrack Service: very good Íslenski barinn Lækjargata 2a What we think: Better than it looks

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