Reykjavík Grapevine - 09.04.2010, Side 24

Food & Drink | Venue finder
3 Frakkar
Baldursgata 14 | G4
Aktu taktu
Skúlugata 15 | E6
Alibaba
Veltusund 3b | D2
American Style
Tryggvagata 26 | D2
Argentína Steak-
house
Barónstígur | F6
Austurlanda-
hraðlestin
Hverfisgata 64A | F5
Á Næstu grösum
Laugavegur 20B | E4
b5
Bankastræti 5 | E3
bakkus
Tryggvagata 22 | D2
ban thai
Laugavegur 130 | G7
basil & Lime
Klapparstíg 38 | E4
babalú
Skólavörðustígur 22A
| G5
balthazar
Hafnarstræti 1-3 | D2
bæjarins beztu
Tryggvagata | D3
brons
Pósthússtræti 9 | E3
Café Cultura
Hverfisgata 18 | E4
Café d'haiti
Tryggvagata 12 | D2
Café Loki
Lokastígur 28 | G4
Café Paris
Austurstræti 14 | E3
Café roma
Rauðarárstígur 8 | G7
Deli
Bankastræti 14 | E5
Domo
Þingholtsstræti 5 | E3
Einar ben
Veltusundi | E2
Eldsmiðjan
Bragagata 38A | G4
Fiskmarkaðurinn
Aðalstræti 12 | D2
geysir bar/bistro
Aðalstræti 2 | D2
garðurinn
Klappastigur 37 | F4
glætan book café
Laugavegur 19 | F5
grái Kötturinn
Hverfisgata 16A | E4
grillhúsið
Tryggvagata 20 | D2
habibi
Hafnarstræti 20 | E3
hamborgarabúlla tó-
masar (“bullan”)
Geirsgata 1 | B2
hlölla bátar
Ingólfstorg | D2
hornið
Hafnarstræti 15 | D3
hótel holt
Bergstaðarstræti 37
| G3
humarhúsið
Amtmanstígur 1 | E3
hressó
Austurstræti 20 | E4
Icelandic Fish & Chips
Tryggvagata 8 | B2
Indian Mango
Frakkastígur 12 | F5
Jómfrúin
Lækjargata 4 | E3
Kaffi hljómalind
Laugavegur 21 | E4
Kaffifélagið
Skólavörðustígur 10
| F5
Kaffitár
Bankastræti 8 | E4
Kaffivagninn
Grandagarður 10 | A1
Kofi tómasar Frænda
Laugavegur 2 | E4
Kornið
Lækjargata 4 | E3
Krua thai
Tryggvagata 14 | D2
La Primavera
Austurstræti 9 | D2
Lystin
Laugavegur 73 | F6
Mokka
Skólavörðustígur 3A
| E4
Nonnabiti
Hafnarstræti 9 | D3
O Sushi
Lækjargata 2A | E3
Pisa
Lækjargötu 6b | E3
Pizza King
Hafnarstræti 18 | D3
Pizza Pronto
Vallarstræti 4 | E2
Pizzaverksmiðjan
Lækjargötu 8 | E3
Prikið
Bankastræti 12 | E3
ráðhúskaffi | E2
Tjarnargata 11
Santa Maria
Laugavegur 22A, | F5
Serrano
Hringbraut 12 | H3
Shalimar
Austurstræti 4 | D2
Silfur
Pósthússtræti 11 | E3
Sjávarkjallarinn
Aðalstræti 2 | D2
Sólon
Bankastræti 7a | E3
Sushibarinn
Laugavegur 2 | E4
Sushismiðjan
Geirsgötu 3 | B2
Svarta Kaffi
Laugavegur 54 | F5
Sægreifinn
Verbúð 8, Geirsgata
| B2
tapas
Vesturgata 3B | D2
thorvaldsen
Austurstræti 8 | D2
tíu Dropar
Laugavegur 27 | E5
tívolí
Laugavegur 3 | E4
Vegamót
Vegamótastígur 4 | E4
Við tjörnina
Templarasund 3 | E2
Vitabar
Bergþórugata 21 | G5
The (fiscal) highs and lows of Reykjavík dining
and a delicios lobster
at Fjörubordid in Stokkseyri
by the sea
Sp
ör
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R
ag
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ei
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F D
For your mind, body and soul
R E V I E W S
Perched atop the Hotel Saga in Hagatorg,
Grillið has been serving up fine-dining
and hard-to-top panoramic views of the
city, suburbs and Esja for over forty years.
Grillið is quite possibly the highest of the
high-end. It’s no wonder this classy joint
has enjoyed its longevity, with impeccable
service from the moment guests step
through its door.
Having spent the ride over to the
hotel gushing about the pristine skies
and anticipating heart-stopping views
of Esja, my heart sunk when the host
guided my date and I to our table along
the wall with closed wooden blinds.
Seriously? We’re grown adults and all, but
we pouted just a little as we gazed across
the restaurant, envious of the patrons
seated along the length of the windowed
wall sans blinds. We tucked our bottom
lips back in though once our blinds were
raised, unveiling a stunning orange
sunset over Vesturbær.
As magnificent as the service and
views are, Grillið’s food is what we were
there for and we were eager to discover
what the collective of chefs had up
their sleeves. So, we both ordered the
Discovery menu (8.900 ISK), offering
four courses of the chefs choosing.
Before we even discovered our first
course, out came light-as-air crisp wafers
of rye and lamb and smoked salmon,
paired with a fresh, whipped horseradish
spread. A trio of fresh breads and
accompanying spreads – Icelandic butter
with red salt, olive and rapeseed – came
next. This was followed by yet another
pre-order amuse bouche of marinated
cucumber with dill granita and parsnip
purée – a refreshing palate cleanser with
a pleasing crunch.
The first course of our ordered
menu turned out to be a salmon dish; a
duo comprised of pan-fried and butter
smoked miniature fillet with horseradish
and celery root. While the pan-fried
portion was slightly flaky for my taste,
the butter smoked morsel melted in the
mouth, as “butter smoked” suggests it
would, and let the taste of the high-
quality salmon speak for itself.
Secondly we were presented with
a portion of halibut alongside a long
rectangle of carrot flan painted on the
plate, topped with lobster lava rocks and
drizzled with beurre blanche infused
with orange. My eyes nearly popped out
of my head when this dish was placed
in front of me, the bright orange, green,
white and black combination on the plate
was spectacular; the complimentary
flavours even more so. The halibut was
delectably tender, reminiscent of the
butter smoked salmon that preceded it
but still new and different; the carrot flan
was sweet and savoury all at once; the
beurre blanche was a surprising medley,
combining the richness of butter with the
fresh zing of citrus. The most awesome
component of the plate, however, were
the lobster lava rocks – seemingly
charred to a crisp, portions of lobster
identical in appearance to lava rock that
somehow managed to not taste at all
burnt and were more akin to the Thai
shrimp chips. But lobster.
Confession: I was tempted when
ordering the discovery menu to request
that my main course not be beef. Beef
just isn’t my thing. Never has been. But I
kept my mouth shut and decided to take
whatever Grillið’s masterminds threw
at me. This may possibly be the smarted
decision I’ve ever made because beef
tenderloin on oxtail is without a doubt the
most heavenly succulent red meat combo
I’ve ever experienced. Just reflecting on
it now inspires me to use such youthful
acronyms as OMG and the like.
This meat was incredible. The
tenderloin was browned on the outside
but soft and dark pink inside and the
oxtail disintegrated in my mouth, it was
so tender. The plate was shared with a
potato cake topped with mushrooms, a
cone of artichoke purée and a smear of
thick date sauce.
I could have done without the
artichoke cone. The bottom portion
of it tasted too raw, and the gelatinous
consistency of the thing rubbed me the
wrong way.
Yet another welcome add-on to our
four-course menu was the pre-dessert
that came next, presented personally by
a charming, soft-spoken dessert chef.
This was a lovely touch. The little treat
was equally lovely. Beetroot and white
chocolate sorbet with pistachio and
chocolate crumble. My date and I so
enjoyed the play between flavours and
textures that we both not-so-secretly
hoped that our fourth and final course
would be more of the same.
Finally, the real dessert. Chocolate,
chocolate and more chocolate. Chocolate
soup beside chocolate foam atop a white
chocolate square, beside a milk chocolate
brownie, beside rice and pistachio ice
cream on a white chocolate parfait.
Chocolate overload! The pistachio ice
cream, parfait and foam were sinfully
rich, the brownie was sticky and moist
and gooey. The chocolate soup, my date
and I agreed, was on the bitter side. I left
most of mine on the plate; my date ate
hers but commented that is was her least
favourite item in that course.
After four courses and just as many
extra little surprises, my date and I sat
and watched the few lights of the city’s
west side glow in the now dark night.
More than three hours had passed since
we were first seated but we would have
never guessed. Each plate presented to us
had grabbed our attention and sparked
conversation when the table was empty.
This meal was truly a pleasure.
I love a good option. Actually, I love plentiful options. I particularly enjoy said bounty of options when deciding on where to
grab a bite to eat. Luckily for me and my option-adoring cohorts, Reykjavík is not lacking in restaurants of all price-points.
Regardless of how close or far one is from payday this city has got you and your grumbling, option-loving stomach covered.
Food For All Budgets
Start Of The Month Treats
grillið
Hótel Saga
What we think: Creative,
masterfully prepared cuisine
Flavour: Rich and complex
Ambiance: Upscale with
great views.
Service: Professional and
knowledgeable.