Reykjavík Grapevine - 04.02.2011, Blaðsíða 26

26
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Issue 2 — 2011
This trip lasts around ten hours—five hours driving, four hours hiking and stops at waterfalls.
Tour provided by Icelandic Mountain Guides (www.mountainguides.is) and costs 19,900
ISK. The trip provides transport, an experienced guide, and hiking and rain gear. Lunch not
included, but you can grab something along the way if you forget to pack one.
”Maybe it was the experience of being in
a land seemingly lost to
time and space, or maybe
it was the humorous
absurdity of standing
soaking wet on a field
of ice, but never did the
group seem upset
words
Steve Ganey
photography
Hvalreki
Travel | Glaciers
water, water, everywhere
Foggy hiking on Sólheimajökull
We all dream of the perfect vacation, filled with un-
forgettable moments and taking brochure-worthy
photos to make our Facebook buddies super jeal-
ous. But let’s face it: Sometimes the weather just
doesn’t cooperate. Rain may dampen your socks,
but it doesn’t have to dampen your spirit. What you
get out of any vacation is entirely up to you.
As I waited outside for my bus in the early
morning, I put up my hood to shelter from the rain.
It was chilly and windy, and the rain showed no
sign of letting up: Not the ideal conditions for hik-
ing on a glacier. C’est la vie. I wasn’t about to let
a little water keep me from having a fun day. I’ve
always tried to find the bright side in any situation,
and today would be an occasion for such “silver-
lining” thought.
The hike was on Sólheimajökull, a “crawling
tongue of the main glacier, Mýrdalsjökull,” as our
bus driver, Ævar called it. On the way back we
would stop at two waterfalls, Seljalandsfoss and
Skógafoss. The drive from Reykjavík to Sólheima-
jökull took a little more than two hours. Along the
way, Ævar pointed out numerous landmarks that
could be seen from the bus… on a sunny day, that
is. Today, few of those sights weren’t hidden by the
rain and fog.
coMe hell oR hiGh waTeR
Nevertheless, our hosts, Icelandic Mountain
Guides, made the very best of what they were
dealt. They provided everything we needed for
glacier-hiking: crampons, rain gear, boots, and
even ice axes, which turned out to be more of a
photo prop than a necessary survival tool, but
fun for taking a few whacks in the ice. Our gla-
cier guide, Maxim, was cheerful and informative.
Meanwhile, the rain came down. It rained when
we started; it rained during the hike; and it rained
when we left. Despite this, our tour group of nine
faced the conditions with a remarkable optimism
and sense of adventure.
We stepped off the bus and crossed a soggy
field of volcanic ash left by Mýrdasjökull’s cranky
neighbour Eyjafjallajökull, with Sólheimajökull
looming ahead. Maxim was quick to point out
that only twenty years ago, the glacier covered
this field. With my crampons on, and my rain gear
only slightly delaying the rain as it made its way
through my layers of clothing, we stepped onto the
ice.
a cold ShoweR
Not long into the hike, the wind picked up. The
thick fog closed in around our group, and in no
time we found ourselves engulfed in a world of the
elements. There was nothing ahead or behind but
fog, and nothing at hand but wind and rain and
ice. This was not the most scenic of hikes, as was
evident in many of Maxim’s sentences starting
with, “On a clear day, from here you can see…”
but I found myself strangely pleased.
Maybe it was the experience of being in a land
seemingly lost to time and space, or maybe it was
the humorous absurdity of standing soaking wet
on a field of ice, but never did the group seem up-
set. In fact, looking around all I could see were
smiling faces. We laughed as we took photos of
ourselves drenched from head to toe. It’s a great
way to look at it: You’re going to be wet no matter
what, so why not laugh about it?
whaT Rain?
The hike lasted about two hours, perhaps cut a
bit short by the fact that very few of the tour’s
sights were visible, and could be described as a
casual stroll rather than a hike. It wasn’t especially
strenuous, although the increasing weight of my
coat as it absorbed more and more water did feel
great to shrug off once back on the bus. Back in
our seats, we met another tour group who had
visited some museums, comfortable and dry. They
must’ve thought we had gone mad as we arrived
laughing and drenched to the core.
On the way back, the bus stopped at two of
Iceland’s scenic waterfalls, Seljalandsfoss and
Skógafoss, for both tour groups to get out and
take pictures. Already soaked, my glacier com-
panions and I were the first off to get some great
shots, heedless of the rain and spray from the
falls. One of my fellow ice-hikers, Clint Wilson
of New York, whose spirit was a ray of sunshine
on an otherwise dreary day, summed up the day
perfectly. “Remember when you were a kid, and
it was no big deal to get wet? I’m actually having
fun!” Clearly, Clint has the right attitude to take on
vacations. So when the weather laughs at you, just
laugh with it.
Always best price online.
Various online-offers to all Air Iceland's destinations.
www.airiceland.is
websales@airiceland.is / tel. +354 570 3030 Contact Air Iceland or
travel agent for reservation.
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