Reykjavík Grapevine - 07.10.2011, Blaðsíða 23

Reykjavík Grapevine - 07.10.2011, Blaðsíða 23
23 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 16 — 2011 Sp ö r eh f. PLAN YOUR ADVENTURE WITH ICELANDIC MOUNTAIN GUIDES MOUNTAINGUIDES.IS mountainguides@mountainguides.is Tel: +354 587 9999 or visit the ITM INFORMATION AND BOOKING CENTER, Bankastræti 2 - Downtown, Reykjavík MAKE SURE IT’S MOUNTAIN GUIDES CHECK OUT OUR NEW TOURS Golden Circle and Magical Nights Glacier Walk, Lobster Soup, Northern Lights ICELANDROVERS.IS icelandrovers@icelandrovers.is Tel: +354 587 9999 or visit the ITM INFORMATION AND BOOKING CENTER, Bankastræti 2 - Downtown, Reykjavík MAKE EVERY MOMENT AN EXPERIENCE ... AND WITH ICELAND ROVERS CHECK OUT OUR NEW SUPER JEEP TOUR Fimmvörðuháls Volcano MR. GORBACHEV GOES TO WASHINGTON Gorbachev, meanwhile, was notoriously f lexible. We turn again to Goldman’s de- scription of the Soviet leader: “His continued shifting between anti-reform and reform measures might be explained as the inevitable conse- quence of the fact that he had no road map. He knew where he wanted to end up, with a more productive consumer- oriented economy, but he did not know how to get there…he tried one approach for a while and, if that did not produce results quickly, he then tried something else or reversed himself, only to end up in another dead end.” Much the same seems to be true of his foreign policy. The most dramatic instance came with the opening of the Berlin Wall in 1989, which Reagan had asked for in a famous speech two years earlier. No one was sure if the surging crowds should be stopped or not, so they surged through and communism came to an end in Eastern Europe. For all his contradictions, Reagan had a clear vision of where he wanted to go and a better idea of how to get there, whereas Gorbachev muddled through from day to day. This, as well as the fact that the United States could run up bigger defi- cits than the Russians, were probably the two things that determined the out- come of the Cold War in the 1980s. Reagan’s supporters would later ar- gue that the whole Star Wars program was one masterful con to get the Rus- sians to enter into another arms race they could not possibly hope to win. In this view, it was the very threat of Star Wars that brought down the Soviet Union. A WAR OF APPEARANCES Even if Reagan wilfully aimed at bank- rupting the Soviets, one could question the wisdom of a policy that meant run- ning up a record deficit to construct a weapons system that did not work and missiles that would soon be abolished, in the hope that it would cost the other side even more. But such was, perhaps, the logic of the Cold War. It certainly fitted the logic of Ronald Reagan. For someone who wanted to increase gov- ernment revenue by cutting taxes, build- ing more nuclear weapons in the hope of abolishing them might seem like an obvious step. The Russians knew that Star Wars was not going to work, but the Cold War was largely a question of appearances. Soviet missiles in Cuba in 1962 did not offer any real military advantages; they could just as easily be fired from Rus- sian soil with the same results. But they appeared to give the Soviets the upper hand, and hence the US could not allow them. Similarly, if the US had an SDI program and the USSR did not, the lat- ter would look weak by comparison, and if anyone ever found out it did not work, it would be too late anyway. Gorbachev gave up his opposition to SDI and his missiles in Asia. The deal made in Washington was not as compre- hensive as the one discussed in Reykja- vík, which might have abolished nuclear weapons altogether. The United States agreed to destroy 859 missiles and the Soviet Union 1752. This was only about 4% of their total arsenals, but the sym- bolism was significant. Nuclear weap- ons would still exist, but the thought that the world might end at the push of a button has become more distant, even as the possibility of limited nuclear war in other a regions has become more likely. Gorbachev’s dilemma was probably unsolvable. In order to go ahead with his reforms, he had to end the Cold War, but by the rules of the Cold War, blinking first was tantamount to full surrender, and would eventually cost Gorbachev his job and any chance at restructuring the system. END OF EMPIRE Gorbachev would return to Iceland on the 20th anniversary of the Höfði summit in 2006. Ironically, it was the same year that Bobby Fischer moved to Iceland. It was also the year that the US Naval Base in Keflavík was closed, the American military hard pressed in the Middle East recalling its troops much like the Roman Empire withdrawing its legions from Britain in its final days. Both Reagan and Gorbachev tried to breathe new life into their respective eco- nomic systems with policies that were seen as revolutionary at the time. Gor- bachev failed, and oversaw the collapse of communism. There is little doubt that this came as a blessing for Eastern Europe, where he remains popular, but many in Russia itself feel worse off than they did before he came to power. Reagan emerged as the winner in the short term, but in the long term he may also have fatally wounded the system he fought for. Deregulation and deficits became the order of the day, and are now costing the US dearly. Reagan never came back to Iceland, but with the advent of the long term of Prime Ministership Davíð Oddsson in 1991 and his program of cutting the state down to size, Iceland became ever more Reaganesque. As then Vice-Pres- ident George Bush said when Reagan was in the hospital after an assassina- tion attempt in 1981: “We will all act as if he were still here.” This is more or less what Iceland, and most of the world, have been doing since the days of the Reagan Presidency. For better, and mostly, for worse, it is Reagan’s world we live in now. Continued from page 19 GHOSTS OF THE 20TH CENTURY AT HöFðI House Most press photographs of Höfði House show it in splendid isola- tion, with only distant mountains as a backdrop. But much like confronting the pyramids in Egypt, if one turns the camera just a little, a city comes into view. Höfði is in fact located at a cross- roads at Félagstún, close to the centre of Reykjavík. It is an official reception house for the Mayor of Reykjavík and hence is not open to the public, but can be viewed easily enough from the outside. Even if it is best known for the US- Soviet summit, Höfði was in fact built by the French. French fishing boats came to Iceland in droves in the 19th Century, and the French Navy even used some isolated areas for target practice. French hospitals were set up in the country and the French Consul built Höfði House in 1909 to live in while he oversaw their affairs. The consul went home to fight for his country in World War I, and the house was bought by the famous Icelandic lawyer and poet Einar Bene- diktsson. His first job after coming home from studying in Copenhagen was to prosecute a brother and sis- ter who were suspected of killing a child they had together. The brother admitted guilt, but the sister commit- ted suicide, and from then on Einar claimed to be haunted by her ghost. In World War II, the house became the residence of the British Ambassa- dor, and among notable guests there were Marlene Dietrich and Winston Churchill, fresh from signing the Atlantic Charter with President Roo- sevelt. After the war, the Ambassador claimed that the house was haunted by a “White Lady” and requested to be moved elsewhere. The house was taken over by the City of Reykjavík, which officially “neither confirms nor denies” the presence of a ghost there. Five years after the US-Soviet summit, Prime Minister Davíð Odds- son and Foreign Minister Jón Baldvin Hannibalsson met with the Foreign Ministers of the three Baltic Repub- lics, and Iceland became the first country to officially recognise their independence from the Soviet Union. In a double sense, therefore, one could claim this is the house where the Cold War ended.
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