Reykjavík Grapevine - 13.04.2012, Blaðsíða 35

35
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Issue 4 — 2012
When we arrive to the BSÍ terminal early in
the morning, the air is crisp and clear and it
looks like we picked a great day to tour the
south shore of Iceland. However, we would
soon learn firsthand that the weather in Ice-
land is fickle to say the least.

On the bus and heading south, our guide begins to
tell us all about the mountains around Reykjavík,
and how geothermal activity plays an important
role in Iceland. In fact, more than 90 percent of all
buildings are heated by geothermal energy.
The scenery is ever changing as our bus makes
its way along Route 1. When the volcano, Hengill,
comes into view in the distance, our guide informs
us that it had erupted just recently. “About 2.000
years ago,” he continues, anticipating a laugh from
the bus. Although Iceland has experienced two
eruptions in the last two years, 2.000 is not a big
number, geologically speaking.
We would later see that one of the two more
recent eruptions, including the Eyjafjallajökull
eruption of 2010, has left its mark on the area with
volcanic ash still blocking the riverbeds. This is
because, as our guide explains, volcanic ash so-
lidifies when it comes into contact with water and
mud.
Driving past Hengill, we descend on a small
town called Hveragerði. Small houses stand for-
lornly in the green landscape against a dark sky.
The illuminated greenhouses in the valley look like
spaceships that have just landed. Most of Iceland’s
vegetables are grown in this area with the help of
geothermal heat during the dark winter months.
FROM A BLUE GLACIER TO A BLACK BEACH
The first big highlight of the trip is a stop at Sól-
heimajökull, an outlet glacier that comes into view
after a rather bumpy drive on a gravel road. The
glacier tongue provides an extraordinary view
from both afar and up close. The compressed ice
is an amazing shade of blue, interspersed with
black and white, which changes from every angle
and change in the weather.
On we go to Vík í Mýrdal, the southernmost
town in Iceland. Now, it might be charming in
the summer when the weather is a bit more wel-
coming, but on a cloudy day in February, the only
beautiful view is of the waves hitting the shore a
few hundred metres away.
This view became even more breathtaking
from the beach Reynishverfi, named after Reynir,
first settler in the area. Never before had I seen
such a magnificent black sand beach. The sea is
in uproar and the waves turn parts of the beach
into white foam, before receding again. The basalt
rock formation at the beach, stemming from vol-
cano eruptions thousands of years ago, remind me
of the Giants Causeways in Ireland and are just as
fascinating to look at.
The Reynisdrangar sea stacks, which rise from
the water a few hundred metres from the coast,
were reportedly formed when two trolls tried to
drag a ship to the shore, but were caught off guard
by the rising sun and turned to stone. At least
that’s what the information sign by the parking lot
says. The weather is getting rainier and windier
and I am becoming colder and wetter, but this is
definitely worth a stop.
WATERFALLS DON’T ALWAYS OBEY GRAVITY
Off we are, to the warmth of the Skógar muse-
um, which proves to be a nice escape from the
elements. The museum features thousands of
artefacts from the last centuries collected by its
founder, Þórður Tómasson, who opened the mu-
seum in 1949. It is clear that life in Iceland was
not easy for settlers, and they had to be especially
resourceful to make tools and find use for every
part of the animals they killed. Þórður picks up a
couple of old instruments and plays some Icelan-
dic tunes for us.
Finally, our last two stops are at the waterfalls,
Skógarfoss and Seljalandsfoss. Waterfalls tend to
have a calming effect on me due to their steady
rhythm of crashing water. Skógarfoss has this ef-
fect. It is impressive and soothing to watch, as I
stand there thinking how this could go on forever.
Nothing can stop a waterfall, it seems. Seljalands-
foss, though smaller, is equally impressive. It is
so windy that the water is derailed from its usual
course, and blows away horizontally. Although you
can walk behind this waterfall, I decide to enjoy
the view from afar, feeling plenty wet already.
This is the end to our day in the south. I’d say
that it would have been nicer if we had had better
weather, but I suppose this was a typical Icelandic
experience. You never know what the day brings
here, especially weather-wise.
A Wet And Windy Adventure Along The South Shore
Travel | South
LYNN KLEIN
NATSHA NANDABHIWAT
ÞÓRSHÖFN
VOPNAFJÖRÐUR
THORSHOFN
ILULISSAT
ITTOQQORTOORMIIT
NUUK
KULUSUK
NARSARSUAQ
GRÍMSEY
ÍSAFJÖRÐUR
AKUREYRI
EGILSSTAÐIR
REYKJAVÍK
our very best price is always online.
highly seductive offers to all our destinations
iceland, greenland or the faroe islands
airiceland.is
The South Shore Adventure trip was provided by
Reykjavík Excursions. You can book it at www.
re.is or by calling +354 580 5400