Reykjavík Grapevine - 04.04.2014, Page 43
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E s t . 2 0 1 2R e y k j a v i k
Restaurants and bars have long had
a healthy relationship with upscale
hotels, pretty much all around the
world. This seems to be the case
even in remote old Iceland. But what
about a restaurant and bar at a hos-
tel? Quite a different combination it
would seem, yet at least in the case of
KEX hostel, also very successful.
One of the owners of KEX recently
said in an interview that the idea for
the hostel/bar/restaurant came about
when pondering/brainstorming with
his friend what he should do with his
life. The ex-professional footballer
decided, along with some friends,
that he wanted to do something that
would bring together all the things
they are passionate about—namely,
craft beers, wine, good food and
music. Not bad, huh?
Thus KEX opened in spring 2011
to widespread acclaim. The market for
cheap accommodation in Reykjavík
was as of yet unfulfilled, and the bar
and restaurant proved to be a hit
with locals in addition to travellers.
Its decor contributes to a relaxing
atmosphere, dark wooden floors,
kitsch, retro furniture, and walls re-
flecting the building's history with its
industrial, factory feel. Not to mention
the spectacular view of the mountain
Esja, the pride of Reykjavík, through
the building's huge windows facing
north. Essentially, KEX was trans-
formed from an old biscuit factory and
renovated to its current state ("Kex"
being the Icelandic word for biscuit).
The results are impressive.
The menu is short and concise,
and fairly priced. Offering products
like sorrel, kale and dried catfish—it
is a renegade restaurant in its price
range. There are no starters per se,
which can easily be rectified with a
little imagination: combining salads
or side dishes with beer snacks to start
off the meal.
I chose deep-fried risotto dump-
lings, mixed with pancetta and served
with chilli-mayo (650 ISK) and my
companion chose a red beet salad
with Parma ham (1,950 ISK) from the
salad menu. The salad was extremely
appetising, the red beets baked to
perfection, still a bit firm and full of
flavour. The dish was sprinkled with a
nut mixture and topped with whipped
sour cream, blended together into
a rich, creamy, savoury mixture. The
risotto dumplings were also delicious
and surprisingly filling. The crisp deep-
fried coating was perfect for soaking
up the chilli-mayo, made in-house
daily from scratch according to the
chef. The risotto had a pinch of the
smokiness of pancetta, which made for
a very nice combination.
For the main course, my meaty
tooth screamed out for some osso
bucco (2,490 ISK). It was falling-of-
the-bone tender, which is of course
what you would expect. The sauce
could have done with a bit more
seasoning, needing a bit of that
"oomph" factor you crave in meaty,
hearty dishes. My companion had the
blackened salmon (2,250 ISK), a dish
rarely seen in Icelandic restaurants.
“Blackened" generally means well
seasoned, and it was indeed that way,
fried to give it a spicy crust. It was
perfectly cooked: flaky on the inside,
as it should be, and full of flavour.
It should be noted that the main
courses are usually not served with
huge sides, or with sides at all. The
sides have to be ordered separately,
which was what we did. French
"Sæmi" fries with cumin-mayo (850
ISK) and fried kale mixed with capers
and mustard seeds (550 ISK). The
Sæmi chips were lovely, although
perhaps not the perfect accompani-
ment with either of our dishes. I
would recommend them however
any day of the week, even on their
own with a glass of IPA. The kale left
something to be desired, however, as
it was a bit too drenched in sauce for
the flavour to be properly enjoyed—
although the saltiness of the capers
was refreshing in its own way.
All in all, dividing expectations be-
tween food and price, KEX is without
a doubt an above-average eatery. I am
glad to see that the kitchen has not
lost any of its ambition since it first
opened its doors. Oh, and did I men-
tion that they have several craft beers
on tap?
Industrial Setting, Ambitious Kitchen
BJÖRN TEITSSON
NANNA DÍS
What We Think:
Nice beers, good eats
Flavour:
From deep-fried bacon to
seasonal fresh sorrels
Ambiance:
Industrial, kitschy, hipsteresque
Service:
Order at the bar, served to the
table, accommodating
Price for 2 (without drinks):
6–10,000 ISK
KEX Hostel
Skúlagata 28, 101 Reykjavík