Reykjavík Grapevine - 09.05.2014, Blaðsíða 55

Hverfisgata 12 · 101 Reykjavík
Tel. +354 552 15 22 · www.dillrestaurant.is
Lífið er saltfiskur
#109 Dill is a Nordic restaurant with its
focus on Iceland, the pure nature and
all the good things coming from it.

It does not matter if it’s the
ingredients or the old traditions, we
try to hold firmly on to both.
There are not many things that make
us happier than giving life to old
traditions and forgotten ingredients
with modern technique and our creative
mind as a weapon.
1 0 1 Ó Ð I N S T O R G R E Y K J A V Í K Í S L A N D S N A P S B I S T R O . I S
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F R E N C H O N I O N S O U P
I c e l a n d i c Í s b ú i c h e e s e , c r o û t o n s
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M O U L E S M A R I N I È R E S
s t e a m e d m u s s e l s f r o m B r e i ð a f j ö r ð u r
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F I S H O F T H E D A Y
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E s t . 2 0 1 2R e y k j a v i k
The Fish Company is one of a number
of relatively new restaurants focusing
on fresh local ingredients and the best
possible international twists to show-
case them. The restaurant is located
in a beautifully refurbished basement
next to the Reykjavík Art Museum with
rare outdoor seating in the heart of
Reykjavík.
Icelandic fusion is well represented
on the menu, with the Icelandic ingredi-
ent (usually the main protein) remaining
the star of the show although it is ex-
ecuted in an international fashion—be it
French, Japanese, Irish, Malaysian etc.
I had taken a glimpse at the menu
before arriving and must admit that my
expectations were high. My companion
and I were graciously greeted and de-
cided to have a cocktail. My companion
had a Tom Hendricks and I chose a
traditional Manhattan. The restaurant’s
mixologists didn’t blow us away, but
the alcohol did do its job to smooth our
conversation and augment our appetite.
For a starter my companion chose
a dish called "Iceland": fried ling with
horseradish paste and potato chips,
dried cod with a fennel salad as well as
potato salad. This dish was lovely, the
ling cooked perfectly to a gentle flaky-
brown on the inside. The horseradish
paste could have done with a bit more
"oomph." The dried cod and potato
chips were a nice touch, adding a salty
crunchiness to the dish.
My starter was "France": chopped
beef tartar and tartar sauce, fried foie
gras and caramelized onion purée,
smoked bone marrow with a poached
egg on top. On hand were rye bread,
onions and cheese biscuits. This dish
was divine. The MVP of the night. Our
server torched the bone marrow so its
delightful juices spilled over the tartar
and foie gras, adding another smoky
dimension to the dish. The tartar was
soft and tender and the egg oozed once
opened, making the richness of the
dish off the charts. My only very slight
complaint would be that the foie gras
was a tad gelatinous.
For the main course, my companion
chose "Vietnam": salted and smoked
pork belly with slowly cooked pork
cheek, popped pork and pickled cab-
bage, spring onion mayonnaise and a
teriyaki sauce. The pork was presented
on a bed of mashed potatoes so the dish
was obviously very filling. The teriyaki
was a fine accompaniment with the
very tender meat. The pickled cabbage
also offered another acidic dimension
to the otherwise smoky-sweet dish.
Towards the end, my companion was,
however, a bit salted out—barely being
able to finish. He did enjoy the ride
while it lasted, however.
I chose "Brazil": lightly salted fresh
cod and scallops with sweet potatoes,
olive marmalade, baked garlic paste and
olive crisps. This dish was a true delight.
The cod was not too salty, which is a
difficult balance, crisp on the outside yet
flaky on the inside, as it should be. The
olive marmalade was truly first-class—
perfect for the cod. The scallops were
nice and sweet, maybe a bit on the small
side. The dish was also presented with
mashed potatoes so this, too, proved to
be a challenge. A very nice one.
We were quite full by this point,
understandably, but decided to share an
"Italy" dessert: a Nutella tiramisu with
raspberry and chocolate cream and yo-
ghurt ice cream. This dish did not light
up the table, but was very nice. Very
light and airy. Especially the yoghurt ice
cream, I could have eaten a bowl of that
by myself.
Overall, Fish Company comes
highly recommended. It is obviously
an extremely ambitious kitchen with
professional staff. Overall, they offered
us an evening of true delight. A carefree
environment in a lovely setting with
excellent food to boot.
Icelandic Ingredients,
International Execution
BJÖRN TEITSSON
NANNA DÍS
What We Think:
Ambitious. Original.
Flavour:
Fresh, vibrant.
Ambiance:
Soft music, dark walls.
Laid back.
Service:
Every dish explained perfectly.
Glasses always full. Perfect
tempo. A+
Price for 2 (with drinks):
25–30,000 ISK
Fish Company
Vesturgata 2a, 101 Reykjavík