Reykjavík Grapevine - 05.12.2014, Page 58

T H E R E Y K J A V Í K G R A P E V I N E X M A S S P E C I A L6
Aðfangadagur
(Ath-founga-dager)
December 24, Aðfangadagur, is the day Ice-
landers celebrate Christmas (as opposed to
December 25 in most countries). The first half
of the day usually goes towards finishing off all
of the last-minute preparations, making food,
wrapping presents, bathing and putting on
nice clothes. Children are often occupied by
the television set, as most stations broadcast a
non-stop programme of cartoons throughout
the day.
Six o’ clock marks the official start of
Christmas in Iceland, marked by state radio
broadcasting the traditional “ringing of the
church bells.” This is when most households
sit down to enjoy a pleasant holiday meal. Af-
ter dinner (and the subsequent clean-up), most
people commence opening their presents.
They then hang out and indulge until bedtime.
Aðventa
(Ath-venta)
Aðventan, or the Advent, is the month lead-
ing up to Christmas. Icelanders celebrate each
Sunday of the Advent (starting on the fourth
Sunday prior to Christmas) by lighting candles
on an Advent Wreath (“Aðventukrans”), which
is usually a four-candle (one for each Sunday of
the Advent) evergreen wreath. The first Sun-
day of Advent marks the time most Icelanders
start decorating for the holidays and preparing
in general.

Aðventukrans
(Ath-ventou-kraans)
See: Aðventa.
Aðventuljós
(Ath-vent-uh-lyows)
Aðventuljós, or Advent light, is a decorative
object somewhat unique to Iceland. This seven
armed electric candlestick is found in at least
one window of almost every Icelan-
dic home throughout the holiday sea-
son. See our Xmas guide for more info.
Annar í jólum
(Aann-arr ee yo!-luwm)
December 26, the second day of Christmas, is
the designated party day of the holiday season
(New Year’s notwithstanding). The day itself
usually entails heavy lounging and attending
a family Christmas party or two, but the eve-
ning has most of the action, with bars and clubs
opening for business around midnight. Revel-
lers like to go out at that time, decked in their
fancy holiday attire and re-connecting with
friends and acquaintances that they haven’t
seen for all of three days.
Áramót
(our-a-mowt)
See: Gamlársdagur/Gamlárskvöld.
Áramótaskaupið
(our-a-mowt-a-skoj-pith)
Gathering around the TV on New Year’s Eve
to watch the Áramótaskaup comedy special
on RÚV is an old and honoured Icelandic trad
tion—in fact the streets fall completely silent
during its broadcast time of 22:30-23:30. The
show itself is a comedy revue, featuring many
of Iceland’s best-loved actors, which aims to
parody the year’s events in sketches and song.
The quality differs from year to year, but Ice-
landers love even the especially bad ones (be-
cause then they can complain to each other
about how much they sucked). Áramótaskaup
is not subtitled, so the fun is likely lost on non-
Icelandic speakers. It’s worth checking out,
though, you can always make fun of Icelandic
TV’s production standards.
Attire
Icelanders like to dress smart and snazzy over
the holidays. Formal attire is usually expected
in the parties of the 24th and 25th, on other
days go for neat casual outfits.
Christmas music
Iceland doesn’t have a lot of original Xmas
songs, although there are a few to be found.
Mostly the tunes meant to get you into the
holiday spirit are translations of international
Xmas ones (some of them don’t have anything
whatsoever to do with Xmas), so the stuff blar-
ing from the radio in the knick-knack shop
should sound familiar. There are some popular
local songs, however, the most infamous one
being Sniglabandið’s "Jólahjól" (“Christmas
bike”).
Christmas stockings
See also: Jólasveinar, Santa Claus
The Christmas stockings tradition is celebrat-
ed in Iceland, although it differs greatly from
what you might be used to. As explained else-
where, there are thirteen Yuletide Lads in
Iceland, and each one comes down from the
mountains on a designated day before Christ-
mas bearing gifts for children to be placed in
their shoe or stocking left by an open window.
It should be noted that well-behaved children
receive something of value, whereas ill be-
haved children usually receive a rotten potato.
Decorating
See also: Aðventa, Aðventuljós
Icelanders like to decorate their houses a lot in
time for Christmas, with the start of Advent
usually marking the official ‘OK time’ for deck-
ing the halls. Decorations are similar to what
may be found in the rest of the Christmas-cele-
brating world: pine branches, light sets, Santa-
related effigies and various knick-knacks and
doodads. American style lighting monstrosi-
ties are uncommon, but not unheard of.
Drinking
See also: Annar í jólum, Gamlársdagur/
Gamlárskvöld
Heavy drinking is generally not condoned on
Christmas Eve or Christmas Day—although in-
dulging in a glass of wine or two isn't frowned
upon—as the days’ festivities are generally re-
served for family activities. The 26th, 31st and
New Year’s Day are popular for binge drinking
and partying, however, as are any weekend
days that fall on the holiday season.
Eating out
See also: Christmas buffets
Icelanders generally don’t like to eat out during
the holiday season. If you are visiting, and you
plan on dining at a restaurant during the holi-
days (see our special Xmas listings for details),
chances are you’ll be dining with some fellow
tourists. However, attending special Xmas buf-
fets is a popular activity over the advent.
Family
Icelandic Christmas is all about one’s family,
extended and otherwise. Generally speaking,
most Icelanders will be busy spending time
with their families from December 24th until
the eve of the 26th, so don’t expect that hot
boy (or girl) you hook up with on the 23rd to be
available for any immediate follow-up sessions
(you should still try, though. Who knows?).
Flugeldar
(fluuhg-oeld-arrrrr)
See also: Gamlársdagur/Gamlárskvöld
are an essential part of the Icelandic New
Year’s Eve experience; in fact, the sale and de-
ployment of fireworks is only legal in Iceland
between December 28—January 6.
Icelanders take their fireworks seriously—
most of those who have witnessed the mass
employment of fireworks at New Year’s will
agree that the act is far beyond over-the-top.
But most will also attest that the display can be
striking and beautiful.
An added bonus is that most of the places
selling them are doing so for charity, or to fund
rescue teams (avoid the for-profit ones).
Expect small blasts here and there as of
December 27th, culminating in an all-out orgy
of explosions around midnight of New Year’s
Eve (and then followed by sporadic, really an-
noying blasts throughout the month of Janu-
ary).
Gamlársdagur/Gamlárskvöld
(gahml-ouwrs-daager / kvoeld)
See also: Fireworks, drinking, Áramótas-
kaup, Áramótaannáll, Áramótabrenna
[Note: Gamlársdagur refers to New Year’s
Eve’s Day, and Gamlárskvöld refers to New
Year’s Eve itself]
The coming of the New Year is celebrated
pretty heavily in Iceland. Drinks are drunk,
fireworks are lit and vomit is, eventually,
spewed. Although there is no rule, most folks
like to gather for a nice dinner feast with fam-
ily and/or friends at the start of the evening (or
late in the afternoon). They hang out, drink
drinks, play board games and watch the TV
recap of the preceding year. Many head out to
their local New Year’s bonfire, a complete list
of which is published in local newspapers on
the days leading up to the 31st.
After watching the Áramótaskaup comedy
revue and lighting some fireworks, most will
head to rowdier, less family oriented gather-
ings and stay there ‘til dawn.
A note about the word “áramót”: like many
Icelandic words, it is impressively and descri
tively sensible, and it does not have a counter-
part in the English language. Quite literally,
“áramót” translates as “the meeting of years.”
Makes sense, doesn’t it?
Hangikjöt
(Howen-geh-kjoet)
See also: Jólamatur
Hangikjöt—literally “hung meat”— is smoked
Icelandic lamb which takes its name from
the old tradition of smoking food in order to
preserve it by hanging it from the rafters of
a smoking shed. Hangikjöt is a traditional
Christmas dish, often served with potatoes in
a béchamel and pickled red cabbage. It’s pretty
awesome.
The Encyclopaedia of
Icelandic Holidays
WORDS BY HAUKUR S. MAGNÚSSON
ILLUSTRATIONS BY INGA MARÍA BRYNJARSDÓT TIR