Reykjavík Grapevine - 05.12.2014, Side 60

T H E R E Y K J A V Í K G R A P E V I N E X M A S S P E C I A L8
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Kæst skata
(kjae-st skaaah-taaaah)
See also: Þorláksmessa
The consumption of kæst skata, or rotted
skate, on December 23 is a holiday tradition
derived from the Westfjords of Iceland. The
dish—which many swear by, and others find
especially foul—is most often imbibed at spe-
cial skate gatherings around noon on the 23rd,
and is often served along with potatoes, butter,
rye bread and shots of brennivín (most West-
fjörds experts recommend drinking milk with
the skate, as the fish is “intoxicating in and of
itself”).
The skate is a chondrichyte, and therefore
ferments when allowed to rot, as its urine is
distributed through its flesh and goes through
a chemical change over time. They are in fact
poisonous if eaten before the fermentation pro-
cess is complete. It is fermented by throwing it
in a box and letting it lie for three weeks.
Laufabrauð
(loi-fa-brau-eth)
See also: Aðventan
The making of laufabrauð, or “leaf-bread,” is
usually a family-affair that takes place early
in December. People gather together to cut in-
tricate patterns into this deep-fried, thin flat-
bread, which is then enjoyed as a tasty snack
to accompany any Christmas event or meal. It
goes exceedingly well with butter.
Nýársdagur
(knee-ouwrs-da-guer)
See also: Drinking
Icelanders like to spend most of New Year’s
Day feeling hung-over and sorry for them-
selves. As the evening approaches, many will
start pulling themselves together and dressing
up for New Year’s Day banquets or parties that
have grown popular lately. Others will stay in
watching DVDs or something.
Presents
See also: Aðfangadagur, jólatré
Of course Xmas is all about the presents, and a
lot of debt is incurred during the season. There
are no specific guidelines for Xmas gift giving
in Iceland, but a good rule of thumb is to avoid
being extravagant in your gift choices, unless
maybe something extravagant is called for or
expected on the other end. Generally most
folks tend to stick with bestowing presents
upon their immediate family and loved ones,
although some like to spread the joy to their
entire group of friends. In any case, there’s
nothing wrong with asking. Xmas presents are
stored under the Xmas tree until they’re due to
be opened.
Religion and church
Even though around 80% of them are enrolled
in the State Church, Icelanders have never
been known to be particularly enthusiastic
churchgoers or observers of religious customs.
Indeed, Christmas isn’t a particularly religious
holiday in Iceland. However, many folks like
to attend Church services and concerts during
the holidays, particularly on the 24th and the
31st. Check with your tourist information cen-
tre for complete church listings.
The ringing of the church bells of Reyk-
javík’s Lutheran Cathedral is broadcast on all
major television and radio stations throughout
the country promptly at 18:00 on Christmas
Eve, at which point everyone wishes each oth-
er a Merry Christmas and sits down to eat.
Returning gifts
See also: Commerce
Exchanging one’s Xmas gifts in favour of
something more desirable is a common prac-
tice in Iceland. Most stores will accept returns
until the second week of January, although
policies differ.
Rjúpur
(ryooh-purr)
See also: Jólamatur
Wild fowl rjúpur, or ptarmigan, are a popu-
lar main course for many families Christmas
meals. The small birds can be delicious if han-
dled properly, and have a rich, gamey sort of
taste. The Grapevine recommends trying some
if you have the chance.
Santa Claus
See also: Jólasveinar
We have no need for your international big,
fat, jolly, capitalist greed-mongering Coca Cola
Santa Claus in Iceland, as we have thirteen of
our own that are much cooler. He still makes
an appearance from time to time. Oh we like
him fine enough, he’s a jolly good fellow and
all.
Þorláksmessa
(thoer-louwks-mess-ah)
See also: Kæst skata
In celebration of one of only two Icelandic
saints, St. Þorlákur, Icelanders eat fermented
skate, which is often enjoyed with copious
amounts of Icelandic Brennivín. Then, they
will traditionally gather on the shopping street
Laugavegur to do some last minute shopping
(although some do the bulk of their shopping
on that day), drink Christmas beer or hot choc-
olate and have a merry ol’ time. Also, this is tra-
ditionally the day that children are allowed to
decorate the Christmas tree.
Þrettándinn
(thu-rhett-ouwn-din-n)
January 6 is Þrettándinn (“the thirteenth”),
the thirteenth and final day of Christmas a
cording to Icelandic tradition. The event is
celebrated with torch processions, bonfires,
fireworks. The king and queen of the hidden
people traditionally join the festivities. Back in
olden times, it was a scary time to be out and
about, as the hidden people can be surprisingly
sinister.
Holiday Opening Hours
Your Grapevine Guide
If you are a tourist stranded in Ice-
land over the holiday season, you
may find yourself hard pressed to
come up with activities to engage
in, as the country practically shuts
down in late December (admittedly,
this has been changing along with
the increased tourist influx). Most
shops are closed, tour operators
generally run a limited schedule,
and some of our favourite restau-
rants close down (although, again,
this has been slowly changing for
the better). Rather than let you de-
pend on dumb luck, we at the Grape-
vine compiled a list of what’s open
and when for your convenience.
Rest assured, there are things to do
in Reykjavík over Christmas. You just
have to be smart about it, and manage
your expectations somewhat.
We’ve tried to make sure this
guide is as comprehensive as pos-
sible, but there may be changes
from when we print the issue. For a
complete list, check out The Official
Tourist Information Centre.
STR ÆTÓ
23: Regular schedule
24: Saturday schedule until 14
25: No Service
26: Sunday schedule
31: Saturday schedule until 14
1: No service
RE YKJAVÍK E XCURSIONS
24: Reduced service
25: Reduced service
26: Normal schedule
31: Normal schedule
1: Normal schedule
ICEL AND E XCURSIONS
24: Reduced service
25: Reduced service
26: Normal schedule
31: Reduced service
1: Reduced service
THE OFFICIAL TOURIST
INFORMATION CENTRE
24: Open 10-14
25: Closed
26: Open 10-14
31: Open 10-16
1: Open 11-16
THE BLUE L AGOON
23: Open 10-17, restaurant open
12-15
24: Open 10-17, restaurant closed
25: Open 10-15, restaurant closed
26: Open 10-20, restaurant open
10-20
31: Open 10-16, restaurant open
12-15
1: Open 10-20, restaurant open
12-20:30
ÁRBÆJARL AUG
24: Open 08-12:30
25: Closed
26: Open 12-18
31: Closed
1: 06:30-22
BREIÐHOLTSL AUG
24: Open 08-12:30
25: Closed
26: Closed
31: Open 06:30-22:00
1: Closed
GR AFARVOGSL AUG
24: Open 08-12:30
25: Closed
26: Closed
31: Closed
1: Open 06:30-22
KLÉBERGSL AUG
24: Open 11-15
25: Open 10-12:30
26: Closed
31: Closed
1: Open 15-21
L AUGARDALSL AUG
24: Open 08-12:30
25: Closed
26: Open 12-18
31: Open 12-18
1: Open 06:30-22
SUNDHÖLL RE YKJAVÍKUR
24: Open 08-12:30
25: Closed
26: Closed
31: Closed
1: Open 06:30-22
VESTURBÆJARL AUG
24: Open 08-12:30
25: Closed
26: Closed
31: Closed
1: Open 06:30-22
The following museums are open on
the following days:
24: Volcano House
25: Volcano House
26: Hafnarhúsið, Kjarvalsstaðir,
The Phallic Museum, Volcano
House
31: Reykjavík Museum of Photogra-
phy, National Museum, The Phallic
Museum, Volcano House
1: Volcano House, Reykjavík Mu-
seum of Photography
KRINGL AN
23: Open 10-23
24: Open 10-13
25: Closed
26: Closed
31: Open 10-13
1: Closed
L AUGAVEGUR & DOWNTOWN
23: Open 10-23
24: Open 10-12
25: Closed
26: Closed
31: Open 10-12
1: Closed
SMÁR ALIND
23: Open 11-23
24: Open 10-13
25: Closed
26: Closed
31: Open 10-13
1: Closed
COMPILED BY EL ÍN RÓS