Reykjavík Grapevine - 28.08.2015, Side 34

34 The Reykjavík GrapevineIssue 13 — 2015TRAVEL
How to get there: Ring road 1 lies directly through Skagafjörður, via Varmahlíð, from
which it is only a 25min. drive to Sauðárkrókur, and ~40min. drive to Hólar or Hofsós.
It takes around 3 and a half hours to drive from Reykjavík to Varmahlíð
Skagafjörður
ÞÓRSHÖFN
VOPNAFJÖRÐUR
GRÍMSEY
ÍSAFJÖRÐUR
AKUREYRI
EGILSSTAÐIR
REYKJAVÍK
By the time you arrive at the Mjódd
bus station in Breiðholt, it already
feels like the edge of civilization, and
your journey is just beginning. There
are many stops on the way. Some
people get off at Mt. Esja to go hiking,
others stick it out all the way to Bor-
garnes where the famous poet and
plunderer Egill Skallagrímsson lived.
I, however, sit it out until I arrive in
Skagafjörður.
The biggest town in the fjord is
called Sauðárkrókur, “Krókurinn” for
short. At least two remarkable works
of Icelandic literature are set here.
One is the famous Grettis Saga, about
an 11th century outlaw who was even-
tually slain in Drangey. Both sides
of the fjord offer a clear view of the
impressive island where Grettir the
Strong hid for many a year, and those
who want to follow in his footsteps
can enjoy a dip in Grettislaug, where
the man himself purportedly liked to
unwind. The island is accessible by
boat, but the true fan will not settle
for anything less than swimming the
seven-kilometre distance from the
mainland. Sixteen people are record-
ed to have done this so far, including
the progenitor, Grettir.
Born in America,
brought to Skagafjörður
The second notable work of literature to
be set in this area was released in 2005
and details the misadventures of Böddi,
an alcoholic schoolteacher who sees
himself as a latter-day Grettir. Writer Hall-
grímur Helgason went left his comfort
zone in 101 Reykjavík to write 'Rokland',
a book which in many ways captures the
Iceland of the boom years. The film ver-
sion premiered right after the economic
collapse, and together the two tell the
story of their times. A scene is set in Gret-
tislaug, but a trip to the hotel bar would
probably be more apt for those seeking
to walk in Böddi’s footsteps.
Other stories connected to the area
are the Vinland Sagas, which tell of the
time Icelanders found North America
and then, as Oscar Wilde supposedly
said, had the good sense to lose it again.
But the story does not end there. Þor-
finnur and Guðríður, the parents of the
first European born in North America,
moved to Skagafjörður around the year
1007 and settled in a farm they called
Glaumbær. Their son Snorri subsequently
took over—a monument to him and his
mother can be found here. One can also
visit the rather impressive turf farm that
was home to his descendants and many
an important local lord, although the
farm itself is from a somewhat later date,
around 200 years ago.
Every year, select young Canadians
and Americans of Icelandic descent take
part in the Snorri program, which allows
them to spend the summer in their an-
Words Valur Gunnarsson
Photos Hildur Wågsjö Heimisdóttir & Valur Gunnarsson
There are many ways to get to the North from dear old
Reykjavík. One entails flying, which provides an impres-
sive view of the mountains as you close in on Eyjafjörður.
Another way would be renting a car, which might be the
cheapest one if others are pitching in. However, for our
purposes, we’ll settle for the bus.
The Sagas of
Skagafjörður:
Searching for
the True Iceland,
Part I