Reykjavík Grapevine - 01.06.2018, Síða 28

Reykjavík Grapevine - 01.06.2018, Síða 28
sjavargillid.is SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍG 14 | 101 REYKJAVÍK | +354 571 1100 | SJAVARGRILLID.IS The doors of the elevator slide smooth- ly open, and Daniel Lismore emerges into the fractured sunlight of Harpa’s fifth floor. He cuts a distinctive figure, dressed head to foot in jet black cloth- ing, with a tall hat and a cape draped around his shoulders. A faint smile plays over his lips, and his eyes are hidden behind large sunglasses. Imposing appearance aside, Dan- iel has a beguilingly down-to-earth charm. We walk through to Harpa’s exhibition space, where his exhibi- tion—”Be Yourself, Everyone Else Is Already Taken”—is in the process of being installed. The network of rooms is teeming with large cardboard boxes, and the strong scent of mingled per- fumes hang in the air. “I’ve scented the e x h i b i t i o n ,” s a y s Daniel, softly, as he picks through a box of jumbled jewellery and swathes of shimmer- ing material. “One of the pieces smells like Joan Collins on acid; another one is like plastic on poppers. I wanted people to feel this plastic, spacey feeling. Another is like gladia- tors: death, blood, guts, horses, soil. I made a new perfume, too, which I’m wearing now. Some people love it, and some people hate it.” Tapestries of life Daniel’s artistic world is a sensory overload visually, too. The ex- hibition comprises a series of his “looks”— extravagantly maxi- malist outfits, layered onto mannequin-like sculptures with only a cast of his lipsticked face vis- ible. They’re instantly appealing and dizzyingly detailed; a technicolour re- mix of pop culture, high street cloth- ing, ceremonial garb, high fashion, and lots more besides. “They’re 3D tapestries of my life,” says Daniel. “There are so many dif- ferent things in there. This is from the Queen of Thailand, and this top is from the tribes of the north. There are Indian paintings, then embroidery I’ve designed... this one is a £90,000 crys- tal dress. Around the back is Rita Ora’s Coca-Cola dress, which should be in a fashion museum, not pinned around the back of here.” “Here’s some Massai stuff, and some hand-painted silk next to ex- pensive fabrics that I’ve cut up. This is from Nicki Minaj—she wore it in the “Freedom” video. This a 2,000-year- old necklace from China. Then my mum bought me this kimono. This is a £30,000 dress. And this is from Pri- mark.” Build me up The results are a collage of Daniel’s personal history alongside his work, friendships, influences and travels, mixed together into a vivid personal aesthetic. It feels like the culmination of a fascinating journey. “I’ve learned a lot from different people, over the years,” Daniel explains. “I’ve worked with the best people on the planet, I think. I was a model, so I was always backstage with the designers, and they’d build me up and we’d just go out for dinner, or to a club.” As his presence became more es- tablished, people started gifting cloth- ing to Daniel, adding to his vast and ever-expanding catalogue of source material. “A lot of people have done that,” he says. “Adam Ant, Boy George, McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, Steve Strange... I’ve had lots of gifts.” Explore, embrace and learn Daniel has been to Iceland several times. He first visited for a friend’s birthday party and was immediately smitten. “There was a moment when I looked around, and all these Icelandic people I’d heard of were there,” he re- members. “Björk was there. Then I did a bit of tourist stuff, and I just loved it here.” A frequent, almost habitual trav- eller, Daniel picks up visual inspira- tions along the way. “Everywhere I go I like to explore, visually,” he says. “I like to see everything, and meet every- one. I go on a search for culture, and I explore it, embrace it, and learn from it. I’ll see something on the street and think ‘That would make a great head- piece!’ It’s human instinct, really.” This approach means there are sometimes culturally significant artefacts mixed into the explosion of reference points, whether Chris- Words: John Rogers Photos: Colin Douglas Gray “One of the pieces smells like Joan Collins on acid; another one is like plas- tic on poppers.” Daniel getting ready for a casual night on the town Culture The Art Of Being Yourself Daniel Lismore brings his inspired nonconformity to Harpa Book & Exhibition Daniel Lismore's "Be Yourself, Everyone Else is Already Taken" is available now, published by Rizzoli. His exhibition of the same name is at Harpa from June 2nd-30th as part of Reykjavík Arts Festival

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