Reykjavík Grapevine - 01.06.2018, Page 62

Travel
The best of Icelandic produce
with a nod to Japan and South
America. Modern Icelandic
flavours, share plates and award
winning cocktails.
Sushi Social
Þingholtsstræti 5 • 101 Reykjavík
Tel. 568 6600 • sushisocial.is
Our kitchen is open
17.00–23.00 sun.–thu.
17.00–24.00 fri.–sat.
SOCIALIZE
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ICELANDIC
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The tiny town of Tálknafjörður sits
tucked away in the fjord of the
same name, just off Route 63. It’s
an extremely peaceful place, where
the steely ocean is surrounded by
towering and distinctively Westf-
jordian flat-topped mountains.
The fjord is dotted with fish farms,
belying the town’s main income; if
you’ve access to cooking facilities
or a camping stove, you can even
take some fresh fish from the re-
frigerated self-service store, and
leave your money in the trust box.

Stay: Bjarmaland
The town’s main hotel is Guest-
house Bjarmaland: a large, smartly
painted building with a nice view
down to the seaside. It’s clean,
pleasant and comfortable, and you
can opt for the hotel breakfast be-
fore starting your day adventuring
around the Westfjords.
Eat: Hópið & Dunhagi
Tálknafjörður has a couple of res-
taurant and café options. A favou-
rite among locals is Hópið, which
is located right in the town cen-
tre. Their menu offers various beef
burgers and a fish and chips op-
tion, but the pizzas come especially
recommended. Down by the camp-
site and town pool you’ll also find
Café Dunhagi, which is an ideal
spot to relax with a coffee. If there
are no kids around, and you’re not
too full, you could sneak onto the
giant trampoline out back and get
rid of some pent-up energy.
Bathe: Pollurinn
A few kilometres out of town you’ll
find this idyllic fjordside bathing
spot. With geothermal water piped
in from nearby, there are three
small concrete hot pots of vary-
ing temperature, painted the same
bright blue you’ll find in municipal
pools. There are basic but recently
renovated changing rooms, a hot
shower, and an unforgettable view
over the surrounding mountains.
It’s one of the nicest bathing spots
you’ll find anywhere in Iceland.
Activity: Birdwatching
Even if you’re not especially in-
terested in wildlife, you will be
when you walk by the harbour
of Tálknafjörður. It’s an incred-
ibly peaceful spot, and as you
gradually attune to the lack of
noise, you’ll start to pick out the
sounds of nature: lapping waves,
and the screeches, honks, chirps
and chirrups of all kinds of sea-
birds. There are red-billed oys-
tercatchers, gulls, grey geese,
and perhaps an owl or a falcon.
Visit: Abandoned
Whaling Station
On the other side, there’s a narrow
road that winds up the side of the
fjord. At the end of it, you’ll find a
long-abandoned whaling station
k n o w n a s S u ð u r e y r i v i ð
Tálknafjörð. There are rusting
m a ch i ne -p a r t rem a i n s a nd
tumbledown buildings, and a
view across the fjord. You can also
find old riding paths used to travel
between the fjords before the
roads connected everything—
today, they’re used as trails to
h i k e a r o u n d t h e r e g i o n .
Hike: Guðmundarlund
Near the town’s camping ground
and swimming pool you’ll find a
discrete pathway leading up into
this small pine forest. Just a few
steps up from the car park, you’ll
find yourself plunging into a ver-
dant forest that barely feels like
Iceland, with a lush, alpine feel.
There are various trails to walk
around, and the route is dotted
with tucked-away picnic tables
and pleasant spots, such as a bird-
friendly copse with birdhouses
made from repurposed cartons.
Tálknafjörður
Amazing nature in a peaceful Westfjord hideaway
Words: John Rogers Photos: Timothée Lambrecq
Distance from Reykjavík: 392 km
How to get there: Route One North, Route 60, 62 & 63
Car provided by: gocarrental.is
Acommodation provided by: fosshotel.is