Reykjavík Grapevine - 05.10.2018, Qupperneq 48

48 The Reykjavík Grapevine
Issue 18— 2018
On a grassy hilltop at the edge of the
small northern town of Húsavík, a
brand new state-of-the-art bathing fa-
cility called the GeoSea geothermal sea
baths recently opened its doors. Situ-
ated a twenty-minute walk from the
town centre, next to an old-school yel-
low lighthouse, a subtle entrance walk-
way leads down into a grass-roofed,
grey-toned lobby with floor to ceiling
windows; outside sits a large, steam-
ing infinity pool with an undulating
edge offering a stunning view over the
Skjálfandi Bay. The water is silky and,
unusually, slightly saline—a mixture
of sea and geothermal water that oc-
curs naturally in a nearby well.
Cheese tubs
When we visit, GeoSea has been open
for just three weeks after a few years
in development. The idea evolved from
unlikely beginnings, explains site
manager Sigurjón Steinsson. “It all
started with ‘Ostakerið’—the ‘Cheese
Tubs,’” he smiles. “There was a bore-
hole made just up the hill, to try and
find hot water for the town—but the
water was salty because it was mixed
with sea water, so it wasn’t useable for
heating at the time.”
A few locals decided to test the wa-
ter’s medicinal effects, adapting a large
tub formerly used in cheese-making
into an impromptu hot pot. “It was
used for quite a few years, with some
success for people with psoriasis and
skin disease,” says Sigurjón. “The idea
came around to do something bigger,
and now here we are.”
Natural design
GeoSea already feels like a success, in
more ways than one. The architecture
and design by BASALT Architects—
who are also responsible for the Blue
Lagoon and Hofsós swimming pool—
is unobtrusive to the point of near
invisibility in the landscape, and the
interior has a muted slate-grey palette
throughout. The poolside area and in-
pool seating are made from smooth
stone, and new water enters through
bubbling vents, so you can find warmer
or cooler spots based on your prefer-
ence. These thoughtful touches result
in a pleasingly natural feel that match-
es the magic ingredient—the silken
geothermal water.
“The water comes from two dif-
ferent boreholes,” says Sigurjón.
“There’s one by the harbour, which
is 27-30°C and has saltier water be-
cause it’s not as deep, and closer to
the ocean; then we have the water
from the cheese tub hole, which is
102°C. We mix those two together
to get the 39° temperature we have
now.” Because the water runs into
the pool at a rate of around 21 litres
per second, and sloshes over the edge,
it can be operated completely with-
out chlorine. “The water circulates
and renews itself entirely every three
hours,” Sigurjón notes.
Sunsets and aurora
GeoSea has been an instant hit with
locals, who come up to the pool after
work. “It’s become something of a local
pub in the evening, because we have
comparatively cheap beer for Iceland,”
smiles Sigurjón. “People have a drink
and take in the view of the moun-
tains—which can’t be beat, especially
when they are snow-capped like now—
and watch the sunset, or the northern
lights.”
As we slide into the pool to watch
the blazing autumn sun sink behind
the snowy mountains, it’s the perfect
end to a long day. As the lighthouse
lamp starts up and shines out over the
water, it seems clear that GeoSea will
continue to be a beacon for locals and
tourists alike.
Distance from
Reykjavík:
478 km
How to get there:
Fly from Reykjavík
Airport or drive
Route One North
then Route 85
Flights provided
by: eagleair.is
Accommodation
provided by:
fosshotel.is
Info: geosea.is
The Hot Sea
The GeoSea baths open in Húsavík
Words & Photos: John Rogers
The view from the café looks over the Sklálfandi bay