Reykjavík Grapevine - 19.07.2019, Blaðsíða 6

Reykjavík Grapevine - 19.07.2019, Blaðsíða 6
News broke re- cently that Krispy Kreme is shutting down its Icelandic operations. How will we survive? Well, perhaps by sampling any one of the bazillions of Icelandic pastries. And there’s no better place to start than with a kleina. There’s much to appreciate when it comes to Iceland’s rugged equivalent of a doughnut. For those of an ety- mological persua- sion, you can im- merse yourself in fulfilling debates as to whether the word kleina (or the plural, kleinur) is originally of Swedish or low Germanic origin. Or if geo- culinary transfer- ences get your tummy rumbling, you can appreci- ate the impressive distribution of this pastry through- out Nordic and eastern European countries. Or, you can be like us at The Grapevine and simply scarf them down. That’s good, too. To butcher Rule 34: if you can think of it, there’s probably a kleina flavour of it. You can get these twisted treats sugared, coated in lemon glaze or even made with a healthy glug of Cognac. But invariably, simple is best. A good kleina, after all, is significantly more robust than your wimpy American doughnut. The dough is twisted like a bow and then fried in oil or, if you’re feel- ing particularly metal/authentic, rendered sheep tallow, forming a surprisingly solid exterior. The best kleinur should crunch just a little as you bite into them. After a gruelling research project, I can confirm that the best way to enjoy a kleina is with a large mug of cof- fee and no meal plans for the next few hours. Kleinur are available at all good cafes and bakeries. FR Kle in a On any drive through South Iceland, it is very likely you will encounter one of the most iconic and peculiar tourist landmarks in the country: the wreck of a US Navy DC-3 transport plane (its very classification a source of contention for many over the years). This wreck- age has appeared in photo galleries of Iceland since long before the advent of Instagram, or any other social media for that matter. The airplane was never intended to be a cultural touchstone, but it continues to be more meaningful for visitors than locals. Can you believe people vandalise this rusting pile of metal?? Normally, graffiti being scrawled on a tourist site is frowned upon. This makes it understandable that, when Polish television station WP recently reported on the site, they expressed shock and outrage at the graffiti that practically covers the DC-3, and scolded their countryfolk for being a part of the problem (some of the graffiti is in Polish). While carving your name into a tree, or into the side of a mountain, does evoke understandable ire from the locals, the fact that the wreck of the DC-3 has been vandalised—and even fired upon, as the numerous bullet holes in it attest—is not a huge concern to locals. Benedikt Bragason, the owner of the land upon which the wreck rests, told reporters in response to the WP story that he simply did not care if people damaged the wreck further. What is it even doing there? The aircraft itself was once owned by the US Navy, and crashed at its current location back in 1973, after encounter- ing a problem with ice on its wings. The wreckage was simply abandoned by the military, leaving it for Iceland- ers to deal with. They opted to not deal with it at all. By this point, however, the wing- less wreck is in such a state of disrepair that it bears little resemblance to its original form. These days, it’s a rusting, graffiti-covered, bullet-ridden hulk of metal, quietly eroding on the black sand, presumably destined to stay there until the heat death of the universe. On the other hand, there is undeniably a haunting beauty to the sight of this ghost plane from a bygone era guarding the black sands of southern Iceland. In many ways, the airplane, first flown in 1944, is an accidental monument to Iceland’s military history. For the time being, its crumbling skeleton remains one of Iceland’s most unlikely tourist attractions—graffiti and all. The Case Of The Ghost Plane Crashed DC-3 is a crumbling tourist attraction that's attracting new controversy Words: Andie Fontaine Photo: John Rogers First You probably know that reindeer are not native to Iceland; they were ac- tually brought to the country in the 18th century. Since then, they have done well for themselves, flourish- ing to such an extent that it’s not uncommon to encounter them in the East Iceland countryside and have to stop for a small herd blithely milling about on the Ring Road. However, one part of the country where you won’t see them is in the West. Why? We asked Sigríður Birna Björnsdóttir, a specialist at the Rey- kjavík Park & Zoo, for the truth of the matter. “While early attempts have been made to promote the reindeer popu- lations in other parts of Iceland, it was only in the East where they really thrived. The reason for this is decep- tively simple: the East just has eve- rything reindeer could ask for. This is especially the case on account of the moss which grows plentifully in the East. Reindeer travel in herds and have a large range that spans from the northeast of the country all the way down to Höfn in the southeast. In the winter, when food is more scarce in regions with higher elevation, the reindeer will descend to lower eleva- tions in search of food. This is why you will often see them by or even on the highway (so be careful when driving in the East). Although they are hunted, the annual quota is strictly limited, meaning reindeer are not especially shy about human contact. It would probably be a good idea and not disturb them anyway; just enjoy their beauty as you drive slowly by and take photos.” ASK AN Expert Q: Why Are There No Reindeer In Western Iceland? 6 The Reykjavík GrapevineIssue 12— 2019 FOOD OF ICELAND NEWS Love it or hate it, this hunk o' junk is a beloved tourist stop Words Words Words Words: Andie Fontaine Photo: Art Bicnick More info and tickets lavacentre.is Open every day 9:00 - 19:00 Volcano & Earthquake Exhibition LAVA Centre is an awarded, interactive exhibition on Icelandic volcanoes and earthquakes. Learn about the most active Icelandic volcanoes and see all the latest eruptions in 4K. Lava Centre is a mandatory stop on your Golden Circle or South Coast adventure. Located in Hvolsvöllur 80 min drive from Reykjavík Photo: Eyjafjallajökull Eruption 2010
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