Reykjavík Grapevine - jan 2020, Qupperneq 34

A Sublime
Symphony
Dill 3.0 rattles fine dinin% norms
Words: Shruthi Basappa Photo: Art Bicnick
I walk into the womb-like vestibule
of Dill, still smelling faintly of tar
and paint, with just enough lighting
to help my eyes adjust to the dark
interiors. The light grows as I walk
up the stairs and so does my antici-
pation.
Dill 3.0 has only been open a few
weeks. We normally do not review
restaurants this early, but this is
chef Gunnar Karl, and when he tells
you that he is planning to turn the
tasting menu-wine pairing concept
on its head, you grab front row tick-
ets post haste.
Laissez-’fare’
The space that once housedNostra
has been transformed into a rusty
terracotta cocoon of warmth. For-
aged greens in clear glass frames
and burnished wood ledges with
wine glasses strike a homely vibe.
With the service abandoning the
long-winded spiel about the res-
taurant-ingredients-techniques for
easy conversation, I can’t help but
feel I am at a friendly dinner party.
Echoing that same vibe, the wine
courses—all natural—are offered
for a group of dishes, rather than the
traditional course by course pair-
ing. In a fine dining setting such as
this, the democratisation of pair-
ings allows for refreshing dialogue
between diners and the chefs.
Signature snacks arrive in rapid
succession—a teeny disc of cod
chip dotted with prunes, a thimble
of ‘kitchen scrap’ consomme is a
mouthful of deep dashi-like inten-
sity, and the goose offal pate is like
swallowing a Christmas bauble in
the best possible way. Ruby red beets
and equally bloody blueberries are
raw and pickled with a light snow of
horseradish, the stinging sharpness
of which nicely augments the Blanc
de Blancs de Bouzy ‘B3’ champagne
from Jean Vessele.
The ‘onion cake’ however is al-
ready gaining notoriety. A rich, al-
most malty financier, the rendered
onions interestingly recall foie
gras-like butteriness. Cut with the
sparkly wine, this remains a bite
you remember long after the meal.
Each of these heralders are perfectly
one-bite sized designed to leave one
longing for more.
Beyond tasting menus
A stream of demure and verdant lo-
cal veggies arrive next. Matchstick
like raw rutabaga becomes more
than the sum of its parts with its co-
riander and chilli flecked rutabaga
mash. The 2015 Chardonnay from
Alexandre Coulange highlights the
citrus notes of the coriander, mak-
ing it one of my favourite pairings
of the evening. Solfinn Danielsen’s
curation is unmistakable.
Designed to reduce kitchen waste
and to use ingredients in their en-
tirety, the main courses each hon-
our one star ingredient—on this
occasion, cod and goose.
Fish bones are simmered for a
soup, and when poured over tiny
orbs of al dente potatoes it is a more
successful reference to plokkfiskur
than the quenelle of cod that pre-
ceded it. The dry 2017 Chenin Blanc
from Garo’Vin is an arresting ac-
companiment, but the cod centres
are so textbook I find myself longing
for some guts and glory.
The goose breast with pickled
crowberries reminds me that this
is what the goose likely ate sans the
copious puddle of seaweed butter
of course. The punch is delivered
with the intensely savoury goose
leg broth, every sip studded with a
brunoise of pickled root vegetables.
As I look back, however, it is
the humble griddle-cooked potato
flatbread I am thinking about. Nos-
talgia is a powerful ingredient in
cooking and one that Dill has long
teased. Here the bread with smoked
cream cheese and hand harvested
salt is a reminder of flatkaka and
smoked meats traditionally eaten
in Iceland, with neither of the two
components actually being served.
Dill 3.0 cleverly curates an en-
tire experience, be it the absence of
branding except for subtle flourish-
es in the letterpress menu cards, the
cutlery jar instead of place settings
and the eclectic playlist. Even as the
winning wine and dinner service
are bookended by precision food,
it is all designed to put you at ease,
and really rattle fine dining norms.
And that it does, with aplomb.
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A restaurant for the very svelte
Food
FISH & MORE
SkólavörDustígur 23 • 101 reykjavík
Steamed Fresh Fish, Traditional Icelandic Fish ‘Stew’, Fish & Vegan Soups,
Smoked Salmon & Vegan Toppings on Sourdough Bread, Beer, Wine, Coffee & more
15% DISCOUNT
SALKA VALKA
15% discount of total bill, every day
IF you bring this ticket
ban thai
There's a reason why we get an award every once a year
B E S T T H A I F O O D 2 0 1 9
Always been the best from the reviews
in our local people and local newspaper.
Best goddamn restaurant 2011
Top Ten of Best restaurants in Iceland ( DV. 17.06.11 )
www.banthai.is tel : 55 -22-444, 692-0564 banthai@banthai.is
very reasonable prices
R E S T A U R A N T
recommend : two very good thai restaurants
MIXED thai restaurant, hverfisgata 125, tel : 588 -1818
YummiYummi thai restaurant, hverfisgata 123, tel : 588 -2121
Laugavegi 28
537 99 00
sumac@sumac. is
sumac. is