Reykjavík Grapevine - des. 2020, Blaðsíða 28

Reykjavík Grapevine - des. 2020, Blaðsíða 28
A Christmas To Remember A pandemic is no dampener on festive spirits Words: Shruthi Basappa Photos: Art Bicnick Christmas Dining Various restaurants In stark contrast to the decadent jólahla!bor! extravaganza of the pre-Covid years (think 10-course menus spanning quail to langous- tine, wines and spirits to match and languorous evenings stretch- ing late into the night), this year’s pandemic-tinged festivities are a tad sober in spirit. Nonetheless, festivals stir up a passion for the pastoral even in the most Scrooge- like hearts. In a year to forget, it is hardly a surprise that we strive for a Christmas to remember. The Christmas Buffet 101 A steadfast tradition in Iceland, the Christmas buffet is no stranger to change, evolving from a traditional buffet, to its fine dining format in recent years. Where staff were once ferried on private boats to Vi!ey for their annual festive feast, Covid Christmas is a staid but not tame affair. Conversations with friends and family quickly reveal that the jólahla!bor! has indeed adapt- ed—think at-home dinner kits by in-house chefs or restaurants ca- tering to a new normal with spiffy take-away menus and shorter set courses for on-site dining, custom goodie boxes and the virtual online party replete with entertainment by local celebrities in lieu of danc- ing the night away. While this does rob the joy of the traditional guess- who-kissed-who-they-shouldn’t- have games, virtual beer tastings and cook-alongs are something we could all get behind. In keeping with the Grapevine tradition of handpicking a selection that reflects various sensibilities, this year, we sought out four res- taurants that have been pushing the envelope in the pandemic, making quick-footed changes, following ev- er-changing protocols and restric- tions with none of the limitations dampening that Christmas spirit. The Non-Traditional One Where: Makake A Korean inspired all-you-can-eat brunch, this is perfect for those craving a ticket to lands afar. The menu is extensive and the kitchen handily suggests ordering 2-3 dish- es at a time, allowing you to pace yourself between the tteokbokki and the japchae. The latter are sweet potato noodles stir fried with generous slivers of fresh ginger and the former are chewy rice cakes that are all bite and a textural treat. The time in-between dishes is perfect for grazing over the banchan, an es- sential part of any Korean meal; the mayak eggs are particularly good. Soft boiled eggs are marinated overnight in a sweet rice syrup, soy sauce, garlic and other seasonings, perfect to top over steamed rice, with a thimble of cabbage kimchi, spicy and funky, or laced with in- tervals of turmeric hued pickled daikon. The hotteok are made to order and arrive piping hot, with a brown sugar sauce ladled over the pan-cooked stuffed bread. Makake sneaks a bit of gochugaru into their stuffing, their surprise heat a nice foil to the miso in that sugar sauce. Service is warm and attentive, the format ideal for a pandemic treat, where fewer people, small dishes and a long afternoon all serve as a reminder that good dining experi- ences are still to be had. The Traditional One Where: Grand Brasserie At the Grand Brasserie, chef Úlfar Finnbjörnsson has crafted a smart, perfect for at-home decadence with his Christmas platter. This is old- school, Icelandic festive food done well, tugging at all the right strings. The anise-crusted salmon subtly evokes liquorice, the dung smoked version is delicate and, paired with the laufabrau!, makes for a snappy bite. The reindeer terrine is stud- ded with pistachios and the goose liver pate is velvety smooth. These are high quality ingredients treated with respect and the elegant mor- sels are an ideal precursor to your Christmas feast. Orders are on a 48-hour notice, so hurry up while you can. Here's to a vaccine! Food FISH & MORE SkólavörDustígur 23 • 101 reykjavík Steamed Fresh Fish, Traditional Icelandic Fish ‘Stew’, Fish & Vegan Soups, Smoked Salmon & Vegan Toppings on Sourdough Bread, Beer, Wine, Coffee & more 15% DISCOUNT SALKA VALKA 15% discount of total bill, every day IF you bring this ticket Laugavegi 28 537 99 00 sumac@sumac. is sumac. is

x

Reykjavík Grapevine

Beinir tenglar

Ef þú vilt tengja á þennan titil, vinsamlegast notaðu þessa tengla:

Tengja á þennan titil: Reykjavík Grapevine
https://timarit.is/publication/943

Tengja á þetta tölublað:

Tengja á þessa síðu:

Tengja á þessa grein:

Vinsamlegast ekki tengja beint á myndir eða PDF skjöl á Tímarit.is þar sem slíkar slóðir geta breyst án fyrirvara. Notið slóðirnar hér fyrir ofan til að tengja á vefinn.