Reykjavík Grapevine - Dec 2020, Page 28

A Christmas
To Remember
A pandemic is no dampener on festive spirits
Words: Shruthi Basappa Photos: Art Bicnick
Christmas Dining
Various restaurants
In stark contrast to the decadent
jólahla!bor! extravaganza of the
pre-Covid years (think 10-course
menus spanning quail to langous-
tine, wines and spirits to match
and languorous evenings stretch-
ing late into the night), this year’s
pandemic-tinged festivities are a
tad sober in spirit. Nonetheless,
festivals stir up a passion for the
pastoral even in the most Scrooge-
like hearts. In a year to forget, it is
hardly a surprise that we strive for
a Christmas to remember.
The Christmas Buffet 101
A steadfast tradition in Iceland, the
Christmas buffet is no stranger to
change, evolving from a traditional
buffet, to its fine dining format in
recent years. Where staff were once
ferried on private boats to Vi!ey for
their annual festive feast, Covid
Christmas is a staid but not tame
affair.
Conversations with friends and
family quickly reveal that the
jólahla!bor! has indeed adapt-
ed—think at-home dinner kits by
in-house chefs or restaurants ca-
tering to a new normal with spiffy
take-away menus and shorter set
courses for on-site dining, custom
goodie boxes and the virtual online
party replete with entertainment
by local celebrities in lieu of danc-
ing the night away. While this does
rob the joy of the traditional guess-
who-kissed-who-they-shouldn’t-
have games, virtual beer tastings
and cook-alongs are something we
could all get behind.
In keeping with the Grapevine
tradition of handpicking a selection
that reflects various sensibilities,
this year, we sought out four res-
taurants that have been pushing the
envelope in the pandemic, making
quick-footed changes, following ev-
er-changing protocols and restric-
tions with none of the limitations
dampening that Christmas spirit.
The Non-Traditional One
Where: Makake
A Korean inspired all-you-can-eat
brunch, this is perfect for those
craving a ticket to lands afar. The
menu is extensive and the kitchen
handily suggests ordering 2-3 dish-
es at a time, allowing you to pace
yourself between the tteokbokki
and the japchae. The latter are
sweet potato noodles stir fried with
generous slivers of fresh ginger and
the former are chewy rice cakes that
are all bite and a textural treat. The
time in-between dishes is perfect
for grazing over the banchan, an es-
sential part of any Korean meal; the
mayak eggs are particularly good.
Soft boiled eggs are marinated
overnight in a sweet rice syrup, soy
sauce, garlic and other seasonings,
perfect to top over steamed rice,
with a thimble of cabbage kimchi,
spicy and funky, or laced with in-
tervals of turmeric hued pickled
daikon. The hotteok are made to
order and arrive piping hot, with a
brown sugar sauce ladled over the
pan-cooked stuffed bread. Makake
sneaks a bit of gochugaru into their
stuffing, their surprise heat a nice
foil to the miso in that sugar sauce.
Service is warm and attentive, the
format ideal for a pandemic treat,
where fewer people, small dishes
and a long afternoon all serve as a
reminder that good dining experi-
ences are still to be had.
The Traditional One
Where: Grand Brasserie
At the Grand Brasserie, chef Úlfar
Finnbjörnsson has crafted a smart,
perfect for at-home decadence with
his Christmas platter. This is old-
school, Icelandic festive food done
well, tugging at all the right strings.
The anise-crusted salmon subtly
evokes liquorice, the dung smoked
version is delicate and, paired with
the laufabrau!, makes for a snappy
bite. The reindeer terrine is stud-
ded with pistachios and the goose
liver pate is velvety smooth. These
are high quality ingredients treated
with respect and the elegant mor-
sels are an ideal precursor to your
Christmas feast. Orders are on a
48-hour notice, so hurry up while
you can.
Here's to a vaccine!
Food
FISH & MORE
SkólavörDustígur 23 • 101 reykjavík
Steamed Fresh Fish, Traditional Icelandic Fish ‘Stew’, Fish & Vegan Soups,
Smoked Salmon & Vegan Toppings on Sourdough Bread, Beer, Wine, Coffee & more
15% DISCOUNT
SALKA VALKA
15% discount of total bill, every day
IF you bring this ticket
Laugavegi 28
537 99 00
sumac@sumac. is
sumac. is