Reykjavík Grapevine - sep. 2021, Blaðsíða 29

Reykjavík Grapevine - sep. 2021, Blaðsíða 29
Food 29The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 09— 2021Food garlic, deliver a smooth, gentle heat. The Cuban classic sandwich Cubano is next, served Selva style. Eschewing bread (we simply don’t get the same kind of bread here, ex- plains Sixto) for tostones, the meat is a 24-hour affair; slow-cooked pulled pork in mole negro, redo- lent with the heady bitter notes of chocolate that brings to mind the smokiness of coffee, lending a depth that the other spices and seasoning rest on comfortably. Pickled onions add a welcome burst of acidity and the accompanying salad from El Salvador with silent whispers of oregano is a herby respite from the deep darkness of the mole. Mexican mole is, of course, popular, but in a lot of countries like Guatemala and El Salvador, they also cook a lot with cacao. The tostones are expertly fried and shaped like a cup, somehow be- ing both light yet sturdy at the same time. These double-fried smashed plantains, that are crunchy with floury insides, are an integral part of the cuisines from Puerto Rico to Venezuela. Selva boasts a vast selection of rum and tequila from the region and the cocktails are worthy ac- companiments. Watch out for the rum soaked pineapple that arrives seductively nestled between plump shrimp—they are boozy with a capi- tal B. Culinary bridge “This is food that I like to eat, but miss,” Paola shares. “Which is why you’ll always find me here after work,” she laughs. I ask her how she sees food as a cultural ambassador. “I have lived here so long, I am Icelandic by now,” she admits. “And I understand what people would like. I think it is im- portant for Icelanders to participate, share and learn from people from different cultural backgrounds. And Latin culture is already known to many in terms of the music, the dance, it is time for them to know about the food, too.” “Here we want to present Latin food, without sacrificing flavour or what it is meant to be and present it in a fun, fresh way.” The grilled octopus, pulpo a la parrilla and the camarones al ajillo (shrimp with garlic) certainly embody that. Suc- culent and jewel-hued, they are served on mounted skewers, a play- ful invitation to plate the meat off the skewers, slice them and share it together with any of the sauces. It is worth noting that the range of salsas and sauces at Selva are freshly made every day and are care- fully paired with the various meats, vegetables and seafood. I especially appreciate the deliberate absence of mayonnaise. Instead, fresh herbs, infused oils, tomatoes, onions, avo- cados and garlic are used generously to create luscious emulsions. For far too many, even in the age of the internet and cooking shows dominating seemingly all air time, food cultures outside of Europe and America still seem to be new terri- tory. A peculiar conundrum con- sidering the ingredients from these regions that have had far-reaching influence on global cuisines. Con- sider the absence of potatoes, toma- toes and corn from our menus. Our tablescapes would be quite bleak then. “We want people to experience the range and diversity of these cui- sines. Latin culture has a way of get- ting into your heart,” Paola smiles. If they can keep this consistency up, they are sure to make inroads into ours, too. H ve rfisgata 12 Happy hour / 4–7pm Beer / Wine / Cocktails RÖNTGEN BEST OF REYKJ AVÍK REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE T H E BEST NEWCOMER BAR

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