Reykjavík Grapevine - aug. 2022, Síða 28

Restaurant
Review: Óx
Óx has been quietly pushing the enve-
lope of fine dining since its opening five
years ago; its efforts have now been rec-
ognised globally with a Michelin star.
Words: Shruthi Basappa Photos: Heiðdís Guðbjörg
“No, no, no, you can’t go in there
yet!,” a harried waitress stops me in
my tracks as I approach the doors to
Óx. I must be early, I think to myself,
now seated at the bar at Sumac. I’m
amused by the intense reception, a
far cry from my first visit to Óx five
years ago when the restaurant was
only whispered about in hardcore
food-loving circles and the welcome
a lot more laidback.
Your first taste of things to
come at Óx might be their website
that—like many fine dining restau-
rants—doesn't really reveal a menu,
but sets the tone for what to expect.
An other-worldly, whimsical site
full of magical creatures that seem
to belong to land, sea and sky all at
once, scamper and disappear along
the moss-green landing page. Refer-
ences are made to adventures, trav-
els and leaving the familiar behind.
Since its opening, the restau-
rant has risen from quiet obscu-
rity—nestled as it is at the back of
Sumac, chef/owner Þráinn Freyr
Vigfússon’s other venture, in a
black timber house. Replete with a
salvaged kitchenette that Þráinn’s
grandfather built, Óx is the clear
realisation of a long held dream.
Now, it boasts of being the Nordic
White Guide’s only Global Master
restaurant in Iceland, and a recently
awarded Michelin star at the 2022
Nordic awards furthers its glocal
standing.
Who’s coming to
dinner?
You walk into Óx through Sumac,
and the bustling market-like hubbub
of the latter is drowned out as the
black door opens and chef Þráinn
Freyr warmly welcomes you into his
truly humble abode. A high, omak-
ase style bar wraps around an old,
lovingly restored kitchen, and just
11 seats await expectant diners. To
complete that picture of homely
nicety, the chefs in their crisp white
jackets stand smiling, like the genial
hosts they are.
Once seated, you have a perfect
view of the entire room. Multiple
mise en place abound on the coun-
tertops below—there are hand-
carved walnut platters cradling
secret ingredients, whisper-thin
blown glass bowls by Carissa Baktay
that mysteriously merge with
Icelandic lava stone, and creamy
ceramic cups and plates. Wines are
Food
Laugavegi 28
537 99 00
sumac@sumac. is
sumac. is
WELCOME
TO THE
NATIONAL
MUSEUM
OF ICELAND
The National Museum of Iceland
Suðurgata 41, 102 Reykjavík
Summer opening
Daily 10-17
www. nationalmuseum.is
+354 530 2200
@thjodminjasafn
Eat your greens, kids!
Not sure what this is, but it's probably delicious
Looks good enough to eat!