Reykjavík Grapevine - ágú. 2022, Blaðsíða 28

Reykjavík Grapevine - ágú. 2022, Blaðsíða 28
Restaurant Review: Óx Óx has been quietly pushing the enve- lope of fine dining since its opening five years ago; its efforts have now been rec- ognised globally with a Michelin star. Words: Shruthi Basappa Photos: Heiðdís Guðbjörg “No, no, no, you can’t go in there yet!,” a harried waitress stops me in my tracks as I approach the doors to Óx. I must be early, I think to myself, now seated at the bar at Sumac. I’m amused by the intense reception, a far cry from my first visit to Óx five years ago when the restaurant was only whispered about in hardcore food-loving circles and the welcome a lot more laidback. Your first taste of things to come at Óx might be their website that—like many fine dining restau- rants—doesn't really reveal a menu, but sets the tone for what to expect. An other-worldly, whimsical site full of magical creatures that seem to belong to land, sea and sky all at once, scamper and disappear along the moss-green landing page. Refer- ences are made to adventures, trav- els and leaving the familiar behind. Since its opening, the restau- rant has risen from quiet obscu- rity—nestled as it is at the back of Sumac, chef/owner Þráinn Freyr Vigfússon’s other venture, in a black timber house. Replete with a salvaged kitchenette that Þráinn’s grandfather built, Óx is the clear realisation of a long held dream. Now, it boasts of being the Nordic White Guide’s only Global Master restaurant in Iceland, and a recently awarded Michelin star at the 2022 Nordic awards furthers its glocal standing. Who’s coming to dinner? You walk into Óx through Sumac, and the bustling market-like hubbub of the latter is drowned out as the black door opens and chef Þráinn Freyr warmly welcomes you into his truly humble abode. A high, omak- ase style bar wraps around an old, lovingly restored kitchen, and just 11 seats await expectant diners. To complete that picture of homely nicety, the chefs in their crisp white jackets stand smiling, like the genial hosts they are. Once seated, you have a perfect view of the entire room. Multiple mise en place abound on the coun- tertops below—there are hand- carved walnut platters cradling secret ingredients, whisper-thin blown glass bowls by Carissa Baktay that mysteriously merge with Icelandic lava stone, and creamy ceramic cups and plates. Wines are Food Laugavegi 28 537 99 00 sumac@sumac. is sumac. is WELCOME TO THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ICELAND The National Museum of Iceland Suðurgata 41, 102 Reykjavík Summer opening Daily 10-17 www. nationalmuseum.is +354 530 2200 @thjodminjasafn Eat your greens, kids! Not sure what this is, but it's probably delicious Looks good enough to eat!

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Reykjavík Grapevine

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