Atlantica - 01.09.2007, Page 45

Helsinkia
��� Call it slapdash science or legitimate research, last year a social psychology professor
from the University of Leicester analyzed data published by UNESCO, the CIA and sev-
eral other organizations, and created a global projection of well-being, ranking Finland the 11th happiest
nation in the world. No matter how imprecise or subjective the data, few Finns would argue that one of
their happiest times of the year is July when it comes time for the peculiar tradition of rug-washing in
the sea during high summer.
Ask anyone how long this tradition has been around and they will say, “As long as I can remember.” In
Helsinki, the tradition has turned into a social phenomenon many want to keep alive, but in the country-
side, washing rugs is considered more a practicality than a tradition. In fact, many of the rugs are made
by hand as weaving is part of Finland’s handicraft tradition and adult education courses in the trade are
fully booked weeks in advance.
There are 15 places to wash rugs in Helsinki, but by all accounts, the choicest spot is on the water’s
edge in the posh neighborhood of Kaivopuisto, where three wooden platforms with five tables each are
jammed on a sunny day. With buckets, brushes and eco-friendly suds in hand, Antti and Leena-Maija
Salmio bring their two grandchildren every summer and everyone gets to work. Six-year-old Leo squirts
the soap while nine-year-old Veronika scrubs. But that’s only half the fun. The best, says Leo, is putting
their family’s red and white-striped living room rug through the giant metal roller that squeezes the
excess water from it, which makes him feel “really strong.” It’s Leo’s job to turn the crank and everyone
helps throw the rug over the sturdy wooden drying rack together, where they’re left overnight to air dry.
Like the Icelanders’ tradition of leaving baby carriages outside without fear of them being abducted, the
Finns don’t steal one another’s rugs. It’s just not kosher. No number of rugs is too many or too few, it’s
all about the laughs while doing the dirty work together.
The Finnish authorities are apparently concerned about the suds, dust and dirt polluting the water in
the sea, says Antti Salmio. But the swans patrolling the shores seem content watching the laborious tasks
taking place from afar. After all, they don’t have to do any of the work.
���
Ask anyone how long this tradition has
been around and they will say, “As
long as I can remember.”
Scenes from downtown Tallinn.
Rug washing by the sea.