Iceland review - 2014, Qupperneq 34

32 ICELAND REVIEW
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running along with us.
“We have to have enough horses,” explains Halldór of
the number. He owns most of them himself, having bought
them or raised them at his farm. others are loaners. in order
to give the horses a chance to rest, each rider switches horses
at least once a day. also, if a horse starts going lame, which
is common during such long trips, spares are needed, as in
the case of a horse and rider not finding the right chemistry.
“at first, my horse and i didn’t quite click,” says Houkje
Schippers from the netherlands. “But the horse i’m riding
now is superb.” i ask whether it’s a tölter. “of course, other-
wise it wouldn’t be a good horse.”
many of the women are experienced with european thor-
oughbreds, a larger horse species lacking the gaits tölt and
flying pace. i ask what the main difference in riding is. “it’s
harsher and you have to stand up and down more,” explains
nina. However, while tölting and pacing on an icelandic
horse, the rider can sit back and relax. Yet for most horses,
tölting uphill and on uneven ground is challenging, at least
for long periods at a time. instead, they change to a trot,
which although softer than on a thoroughbred, gives the
bum a beating. “that’s it, i’m making a switch,” announces
maya. a terrific tölter, her chestnut dun, skewbald mare
can’t keep it up after leaving the smooth path. “it’s a compe-
tition horse. i wouldn’t mind owning her but she’s not good
for traveling.” maya has been a guide with Íshestar for years.
“never have i come across such good horses. they’re great
tölters, all of them.”
the many days of riding not only brings the horses and
people closer together but also the riders. From ages 18 to
80, they all share a love for horseback riding, breaking age,
language and cultural barriers. “it’s a good group,” confirms
maya. everyone is at ease with each other. i wonder where
to pee as nature calls when i observe maya squatting nearby.
“no one is watching, you just go,” explains Susi. on breaks,
Halldór makes up for his lack of language skills with good-
natured teasing, only to be attacked by a number of girls at
the same time. maya serves as his interpreter but laughter
needs no translation. “i’m taking an english course this
winter,” he reveals.
oFF the beaten path
Having run other tours for Íshestar, including of the mývatn
area, Halldór is excited about offering tours closer to home
and taking visitors across the arctic circle. the routes he’s
chosen include the uninhabited plains of melrakkaslétta, a
Clockwise from the top left: Keeping the loose horses in order; the
group admires botnstjörn in ásbyrgi canyon; Helper Karl björnsson
(left), guide María tinna árnadóttir and Halldór with mountain Hafrafell
in the background; the group takes a break in the sun by the old farm
Hafursstaðir; Anne Kristine boe from denmark throws tour organizer
Halldór olgeirsson’s boot.