Iceland review - 2019, Qupperneq 35

31
Iceland Review
day passes quickly, the weather steadily improving.
On our second day, I join Magnús’ group on their way
to make temperature and depth measurements where
the geothermal heat has melted holes in the Grímsvötn
lakes’ ice cover. Finally, full visibility allows me to see
the whole area in all its glory. I can see signs of the last
Grímsvötn eruption, jet black and dark grey peaks of
ash cutting through the ice sheet like tiny mountain
ranges, the surface of the glacier covered in what looks
like thick vegetation made of ice. The glacier, which
before looked snowy white, now appears in endless
shades of ashy grey. The group walks in single file out
to the holes in the ice and moves carefully between
icebergs, stopping along the way to record some num-
bers. On the third day, I join a group on their way to the
top of Bárðarbunga, Grímsvötn volcano’s big sister.
Bárðarbunga is located just north of Vatnajökull at an
altitude of 2,000m (6,560ft), sitting on top of a large
volcano that seems to be stirring. Walking to the edge
of the Bárðarbunga caldera is not for the faint of heart,
or those afraid of heights. But for those who dare, look-
ing into the melted glacier below is spectacular.
Everything has to be measured and documented
on the glacier. Precipitation from above and geother-
mal heat from below mean the conditions are ever
changing. Magnús Tumi tells me that general interest
in glaciers has increased in the past decade, and there
has never been more demand for interviews from both
Icelandic and international media. He says the research
is necessary and its purpose multifaceted. “In general,
it’s important to know the health of the glaciers and
observe how fast they’re receding.” He points to global
warming as the main cause of the glaciers’ retreat,
which in turn causes land upheaval and affects rivers,
among other things. Several parties rely on the data
collected in these trips. Among them are the National
Power Company of Iceland and the Icelandic Road and
Coastal Administration, both of which sponsor the
society’s trips because they need to know the condition
of volcanoes and geothermal areas under the glacier to
predict possible floods and how glacial runoff water will
affect power plants.
I feel a tinge of sadness as we load up the cars,
preparing to go home. Perhaps you’ve read about
guerrilla groups who take to the mountains, isolated
from the rest of the world, solely focused on fighting
for their cause. On the way down from the glacier, I feel
a little like I’d joined one of those groups – in this case,
passionately fighting to preserve something that’s
facing extinction. The first thing I do when I reach an
internet connection again is sign up as a member of
the Iceland Glaciological Society.