Reykjavík Grapevine - jún. 2023, Qupperneq 31

31 Travel
Travel Feature Hot Pool Hopping
In The Westfjords
How many pools is too many?
Hellulaug often features on influ-
encers’ social media feeds, drawing
more and more tourists. When we
arrived, there were maybe three
people submerged in the spring,
which considering its size, could be
considered a crowd. Initially hesitant,
I eventually decided to step in, and
once immersed in the soothing wa-
ter, I didn’t want to leave — the view
over the Breiðafjörður bay took my
breath away and the water felt like a
warm hug.
Keep in mind that there are no
amenities next to Hellulaug, so be
ready to change in the car (again).
Alternatively, you can walk a few
minutes to Flókalundur restaurant
and use a bathroom there. The
restaurant serves good lunch deals,
burgers and a soup of the day. Don’t
pretend like we didn’t tell you!
REYKJAFJARÐARLAUG
As we drove about half an hour to
the next destination, we made a few
unplanned stops, admiring nature.
We came across a heartwarming
sight of a sheep nursing its baby and
hundreds, if not thousands of birds,
including one graceful oystercatcher,
crossing the road. The first thing that
caught my attention upon our arrival
was how clean the amenities were.
The pool as well as two changing
rooms and a toilet are maintained
with the help of visitors‘ donations.
Reykjafjarðarlaug offers an option to
choose between a geothermal pool
and a hot spring. Compared to other
pools on our list, Reykjafjarðarlaug
is more spacious, allowing hot tub
users to relax in a more comfortable
way rather than squeezing togeth-
er like sardines in a can. In fact,
the pool is divided into two parts: a
colder section and a hotter section.
Visitors can take turns, alternating
between a hot steam and a refresh-
ing dip. Some of the fellow pool
dwellers had even brought a lunch-
box with cookies. Although eating in
the pool would normally be frowned
upon, there was nothing in the world
I craved more than those cookies
while observing the snow-covered
mountains on the horizon.
You can see the natural hot spring
steaming from afar. Just a few steps
up a muddy path from the main pool
and you’re there. I have to admit, I
had some reservations about the
muddy water, but once I immersed
myself in it, I immediately wished I
had brought a book — with a steamy
45 degrees Celsius, this was the
closest I had to a bubble bath in
months.
POLLURINN
After Reykjafjarðarlaug, we contin-
ued our way on Route 63, passing
Bíldudalur and heading towards
Tálknafjörður on Route 617. We drove
past the village and took a steep
gravel road up before arriving at Pol-
lurinn, a four-section pool with tem-
peratures ranging from 36 to 40 de-
grees Celsius. The pools are shallow
and best enjoyed when stretched
out watching the view over the fjord.
In winter, secluded Pollurinn would
definitely be a perfect northern lights
hunting spot.
We’ve heard a few times during the
trip that Tálknafjörður and surround-
ings are hot spots for birdwatchers
and even stumbled upon two nests
right next to the hot pots. One advice
we learned from a professional bird
watcher — be extra careful near the
nests and try not to stress the birds
as they might abandon their eggs
and fly away.
HIDDEN DELIGHT
What better way to conclude a day of
busy thermal pool hopping than with
a delightful dinner accompanied by
a breathtaking view? We chose Cafe
Dunhagi in Tálknafjörður and, much
to our delight, the place turned out
to be a hidden gem in its own right.
Nestled in the oldest building of its
kind in the Westfjords, Dunhagi was
only a 4 km drive from our last stop
at Pollurinn. The cafe operates from
late May to mid-September and is
managed by Dagný, a native of the
fjord who we had initially mistaken
for an American. It’s no surprise,
as Dagný had spent over 20 years
living and working in the USA before
returning to her homeland.
Through photos on the walls, Cafe
Dunhagi tells the local history. The
place often hosts various cultural
events and has ambitious future
plans with residencies and work-
shops for artists in mind. When it
comes to food, the cafe specialises
in mindful cuisine, serving local fish
and lamb, paired with wild salad har-
vested nearby, and incorporates sea-
sonal produce, like rhubarb in June,
or portobello mushrooms in August.
Vegan and vegetarian options are
also available and Dagný takes great
care to accommodate guests with
allergies or intolerances — an excep-
tional level of attentiveness. Notably,
Dagný emphasised that fish sourced
from the infamous nearby fish farms
would never be served at Dunhagi.
With a wine selection unusual for
such a remote place, house cock-
tails and a playlist featuring Nina
Simone and Bob Dylan, we vowed to
return — both to the pools and Cafe
Dunhagi.
And so we did, the very next day.
I changed into a swimsuit in
the car, the changing rooms
by the pool going completely
unnoticed in my excitement to
jump in and enjoy the views.