Reykjavík Grapevine - 01.09.2023, Side 39

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multiple directions, there are
various trails to choose from.
However, the most straightfor-
ward and popular route starts
just when you drive past Mos-
fellsbær. About five kilometres
past Mosfellsbær, you’ll see an
exit to the right to Esjan’s trail-
head. There you’ll find a parking
lot, usually half full.
Once you’ve managed to
climb Queen Esja, marvel at the
view it offers you. This is the best
view you can get of Reykjavík. On
a clear day, you can even see all
the way to Keilir in Reykjanes.
Móskarðshnjúkar:
Esja’s evil twin
Slightly east of Esja is a series of
peaks named Móskarðshnjúkar.
These peaks have long tricked
the citizens of Reykjavík during
wet seasons into thinking that
sunshine is on its way. Due to
their geological formation, the
rhyolite peaks seem to be con-
stantly bathed in the sun. It’s an
especially warming sight on cold
days.
This is a fairly challenging,
but accessible hike. It totals
about six kilometres round-trip,
with approximately 700 metres
of elevation. The most popular
trailhead starts from the south.
From Mosfellsbær, instead of
driving north towards Esja,
turn right onto Þingvallave-
gur (Route 36). Head straight
for about seven kilometres and
turn left onto a gravel road with
a sign saying Hrafnhólar. From
there, you’ll drive past the farms
Skeggjastaðir and Hrafnhólar,
until you’ll follow the road to the
right, where you’ll end up at a
parking lot by the trailhead.
Like all hikes, Móskarðsh-
njúkar becomes more treach-
erous during the winter. It is
prone to avalanches and many
hikers have become injured. In
2020, an avalanche even led to
the death of a young hiker.
Úlfarsfell: Standing on
the shoulders of giants
Standing tall on the border of
Mosfellsbær and Reykjavík is
Úlfarsfell –  a 296-metre-high
mountain that seems puny com-
pared to its neighbours. There
was once a farm there, which
was deserted around the year
1900. You can still find the ruins
if you look closely.
Úlfarsfell is a fairly easy hike
and a nice outing for the fam-
ily. The hike is about three ki-
lometres round-trip. The trail-
head is very close to the main
road connecting Reykjavík and
Mosfellsbær. From Reykjavík,
you’ll enter a roundabout from
where you’ll take the first exit
to the right. Voilá! You’re at the
trailhead. The Forestry Associ-
ation of Mosfellsbær has grown
trees there since the early 20th
century, so the start of the hike
leads you into a nice collection
of evergreens. Once out of the
copse, you’ll hike up a pretty bar-
ren environment for the rest of
the trip. The round-trip takes on
average about 90 minutes and
grants you a spectacular view of
the cityscape.
Helgafell: A lesser-
known gem
If you want to skip the trip to
Mosfellsbær – I won’t blame you
– there are more hikes available
near Hafnarfjörður. Helgafell is
one of the more popular moun-
tains to hike within the capital
area. But it means you’ll have to
go to Hafnarfjörður. Pros and
cons, people.
Driving into Hafnarfjörður,
head in the direction of Keflavík
until you reach a looped inter-
section taking you to Kaldársel.
Drive until you reach the road
Kaldárselsvegur which ulti-
mately takes you out of civilisa-
tion. You’ll reach the trail’s park-
ing lot.
Although the elevation isn’t
much to write home about – ap-
proximately 250 metres –  the
trail becomes steep. The more
popular route leads you into a
small crevice, where your hand
and foot coordination is tested.
No worries though, it’s not a
climb in any sense of the word.
Continue upwards to be re-
warded with a beautiful pan-
oramic view over Reykjanes and
the capital area.
A well-deserved rest
Once you’ve finished these
hikes – yes, all these hikes – give
yourself a pat on the back. Your
muscles will be sore tomorrow,
which is a perfect time to hit
up one of the local swimming
pools. There will be an air of
smugness around you and you’ll
want to tell everyone what hikes
you got up to last weekend. Don’t
resist the urge. Tell them. Send
them a friend request on Stra-
va. After all, you are better than
most. Congratulations.
On a clear day, you can even see all the
way to Keilir in Reykjanes.