Reykjavík Grapevine - 25.07.2003, Qupperneq 28

- the reykjavík grapevine -28 july 25th - august 7th, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 29july 25th - august 7th, 2003
Kristskirkja í Landakoti
Iceland’s last Catholic bishop,
Jón Arason, was executed
in 1550, and has since,
paradoxically for a supposedly
Lutheran country, become
something of a national hero
for standing up to the Danes.
Following his death, every Dane
in the country was killed, but no
one saw this as a good time to declare independence, and Danish
rule was silently reimposed. Was known at the time for being a
staunch advocate of literacy, and for raising some of the best sheep
on the island. Modern genetic research has proven that he is in
fact the direct ancestor of every living Icelander. Catholicism was
relegalised in 1874, and they got their first church in 1897. This,
the current Catholic church, was consecrated in 1929.
Neskirkja
Consecrated in 1957, it has been called the first modern church in Iceland,
as it was built for other uses than just preaching. This probably was a
reflection of declining church attendance. Even the architect realised this
and did not bother to put up a belfry, as he felt there was no need for one
on a modern church, probably as
no one would heed the call anyway.
As bars have become the more
popular places for gatherings and
spiritual refreshment, churches
have responded to this competition
by housing more and more AA
meetings. Other attempts at
modernisation include broadcasting
mass directly over the internet, and
the churchmobile, which drives
around the area every Sunday.
CHURCHES
SOME FUN PLACES TO VISIT AND WORSHIP IN
W A N D E R I N G S
Hallgrímskirkja
The mother of them all. Sort of spaceshippy and/or
phallic in appearance. Took a lifetime to complete, as
it was originally planned in 1914, construction started
in 1945, and it was finally consecrated in 1986.
Named after 17th century priest and poet
Hallgrímur Pétursson, who wrote an
epic poem about the martyrdom of
Christ, and married a woman
who had previously been
abducted by Turks,
before dying of
leprosy. The
area housed
barracks during
World War Two. The
view from the tower
is probably the best in
town. Outside the church
is a statue of the heathen
Leifur Eíríksson, whereas
inside is a lifesize
(presumably) statue of
Jesus himself.
Langholtskirkja
A rather recent church, consecrated in 1984. Apparently
has great acoustics, and concerts are frequently held
there. Among notable performers have been Faeroese
singer Eivör Pálsdóttir. The house choir is apparently
one to watch out for, as it won 3 gold medals in a
choir competition in Tampere, Finland. Perhaps we
should try entering it in Eurovision. The church also
houses AA meetings, but how this affects the choir is,
as yet, undocumented. The choir is currently in its 50th
anniversary, as will be celebrated by the church. The
area was farmland until about 1960, when encroaching
urbanisation forced the farmers away.
Kópavogskirkja
Designed by the
same architect as
Langholtskirkja, but very different
in design. Known for its stained glass windows
designed by sculptor Gerður Helgadóttir, which follow the
bow shape of the
walls and said to
create a mysterious
atmosphere in
the way they filter
daylight. People
supposedly go there
as much for the
great view as the
closeness to God.
The church has had
its share of organ
problems, and is
currently on its fourth
organ. The first was
a harmonium owned
by a nearby school, the second only lasted for 7 years before being sold off and the
3rd, lasting from 1964 to 1997 was very vulnerable for climate changes. Let us hope
they won’t be looking for a new organ donor soon.
Laugarneskirkja
Guðjón Samúelsson was the state architect of Iceland from
1924-1950, and designed many churches, including the
Catholic Church and Hallgrímskirkja as well as the National
Theatre. This church was consecrated in 1949, and is not
one of his most original
works, as it looks a lot
like the church he built in
Akureyri a year earlier.
Legend has it that
Hallgerður Langbrók,
wife of Gunnar from
Njálssaga, lived
here and that she
is buried in the
graveyard after having
caused her mans death by
refusing to ruin her
hairdo so he could
mend his bowstring
when under attack,
apparently because
he had slapped her
once. Let that be a
lesson...
Photos: Aldís