Reykjavík Grapevine - 09.03.2007, Blaðsíða 16

Aldrei fór ég suður: Now More Than Ever
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The 1974th Annual Easter-festivities will soon
be upon us, as will the fourth annual ‘Aldrei
Fór Ég Suður’ (I Never Went South). Both are
excellent reasons to celebrate with friends.
Every Easter since 2003, and this year will
be no exception; the cream of Iceland’s musi-
cal crop has collectively made its way down
to the heart of the West Fjords, to the town
of Ísafjörður (pop. 4.000). More specifically:
to its harbour, where they join local artists
on-stage to celebrate the pure, unabashed
joy of music. A celebration of local talent and
rural heritage along with the best of what’s
happening in the capital, the ‘Aldrei Fór Ég
Suður’ Festival (AFS for short) is the brainchild
of Ísafjörður’s own Mugison, one of Iceland’s
most celebrated new musicians.
Here is a true statement: Some of the best
ideas are born over glasses of beer. The story
behind AFS – which has by now been re-
peated ad nauseam by the Icelandic media,
including the Grapevine – goes that Mugi-
son and his father were sitting in a London
pub some years ago, when they started jok-
ing about hosting a grand music festival in
their tiny home-town. And now they’ve got
Blonde Redhead performing.
“We were basically enthusing about how
cool it would be to see [legendary Ísafjörður
fisherman] Dóri Hermanns singing ‘Shaking
the Blues Away’ in his raspy voice before giv-
ing up the stage to someone like Sigur Rós,”
Mugison told the Grapevine. “For some rea-
son, the idea stuck with us, we started look-
ing into it and before we realized it, we had
recruited more than 20 bands without even
giving thought to logistics such as procur-
ing a venue, sound system or transportation
for the mass of people. Luckily, some good
people got involved early on; the first festi-
val went over smoothly and has been steadily
growing since.”
Growing out of proportion?
The number of artists and acts appearing
at the festival has been steadily increasing
since its inception. It has grown from about
20 (the first line-up included Mugison him-
self, Kira Kira, assorted Sigur Rós members
playing country-music and a band fronted
by legendary troubadour and AFS mainstay
Siggi Björns) to the point where 30-35 acts
are set to appear this coming April. There
have been talks of making the festival into a
two-day event, or adding an extra stage, just
to fit all these bands on the daylong sched-
ule. Among those scheduled to rock an old
warehouse on Saturday 7 April 2007 are the
aforementioned Blonde Redhead, legendary
rock bands Ham and Mínus, Pétur Ben, Lay
Low, Ampop along with Mugison himself.
And then there’s the local talent, of which
there is plenty – some even say that one of
the results of AFS is a revival in Ísafjörður’s
garage-band culture. Also, a mountain choir
and a troupe of rappers represent the suburb
of Flateyri, while the Mayor of neighbour-
ing Bolungarvík (an avid concert promoter),
Grímur Atlason, will perform with his own
rock band.
While it’s fun to theorise that AFS could
someday rival some of the larger music fes-
tivals in Iceland – or even Scandinavia (Nor-
way’s annual By:larm festival, for instance,
started out much the same as AFS) – a large
part of its charm stems from the intimate at-
mosphere it provides. But then there’s the fa-
miliar urge to invite all your friends to join the
party. “One of the problems we face at this
point,” a member of the AFS committee told
the Grapevine, “is the sheer number of qual-
ity acts applying to play. We couldn’t possibly
host all of them, but the year-to-year increase
in performing artists is telling of how much
we’d like to.”
Widening the frame
One of the tenets of AFS is that relatively
(or completely) unknown local talent gets
as much leeway and attention as nationally
renowned acts such as Benni Hemm Hemm
or Mugison. Nobody gets special treatment,
nobody gets paid, but everyone seems to
have fun, as the organisers usually face a
barrage of applications from Icelandic and
international musicians wanting to partake
in the affair. Mugison says, “The festival is
a non-profit event and thus we charge no
entry-fee. Rather, the festival is paid for by
sponsorship, so we don’t offer any monetary
compensation – although we supply our per-
formers with lodging, food and parties. The
weekend is more about getting together in
a decent small town with likeminded musi-
cians, performing for an open and unpreten-
tious crowd made up of people of all ages
and professions. Ever since our first run we’ve
had a lot of visitors from out of town check-
ing out the festival – the atmosphere here
is very friendly and festive during the whole
week leading up to it.”
I ask Mugison what he feels sets the festi-
val apart from others of its kind, other than it
being in the small, remote town of Ísafjörður.
“Well, one important thing is that ev-
erybody involved with the festival donates
their work, so there’s a lot of goodwill in the
air. Everybody comes together to make it as
good as possible. Another thing is that the
audience is comprised of ‘regular people’ in
the respect that, you know, it’s not a spe-
cific crowd out for a specific type of event, if
you catch my drift. It’s just everyday people
– entire families – coming to check out the
event, getting exposed to very eclectic music
alongside their favourites. I think it’s beauti-
ful that your grandmother, for instance, will
see Kira Kira, The Nine Elevens and Hairdoc-
tor while waiting for her local Accordion So-
ciety to come on. And it goes both ways: the
‘underground’ crowd coming to check out
the aforementioned artists will get to see
Siggi Björns strum his acoustic guitar or Villi
Valli play the piano. They also might need to
widen their frame, and this is a chance to do
that. It’s also more fun than most festivals I’ve
been to.”
The Aldrei Fór Ég Suður Festival will take place
in Ísafjörður on April 7, from around 2pm ‘til
late. At the time of writing, the following acts
were confirmed to appear: Ampop, Benny
Crespos Gang, Blonde Redhead, Bloodgroup,
Charly, Donna Mess, Dóri DNA,Dr. Spock,
Esja, Fjallakórinn í Önundarfirði, Flateyrar-
rapp, Flís og Bogomil Font, Flæði, FM Belfast,
Grjóthrun í Hólshreppi, HAM, I Adapt, Jan
Mayen, Lay Low, Mínus, Mugison, Óli Popp,
Pétur Ben, Pollapönk, Reykjavík!, Siggi Björns,
Skriðurnar, Skúli Þórðar og Sökudólgarnir,
Slugs, Sprengjuhöllin, and Æla.
Text by Haukur Magnússon Photos by Hörður Sveins
Services
Useful Numbers
Emergency number: 112
Police: 569 9000
Medical help: 1770
Dental emergency: 575 0505
AA: 551 2010
Information: 118
Telegrams: 146
Tax Free Refund
Iceland Refund,
Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 564 6400
www.icelandrefund.com
Laundry Service
HI Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34,
Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is
Úðafoss, Vitastígur 13,
Tel: 551 2301, www.udafoss.is
Post Office
Post offices are located around the
city as well as in the countryside.
The downtown post office is at
Pósthússtræti 3-5. For a full list and
info on opening hours visit www.
posturinn.is.
Stamps are also sold in bookstores,
gas stations, some grocery stores and
tourist shops.
Embassies and Consulates
in Iceland
United States, Laufásvegur 21,
Tel: 562 9100
United Kingdom, Laufásvegur 31,
Tel: 550 5100
Russia, Garðastræti 33,
Tel: 551 5156
China, Víðimelur 29,
Tel: 552 6751
For a full list visit Ministry for Foreign
Affairs: www.mfa.is/diplomatic-mis-
sions/icelandic-missions/
Internet Access
Most coffeehouses have wireless
Internet access.
Computers with Internet connections
are available at:
Ráðhúskaffi City Hall, Tjarnargata 11
BSÍ Bus Terminal,
Vatnsmýrarvegur 10
Ground Zero, Vallarstræti 10
The Reykjavík City Library,
Tryggvagata 15
The National and University Li-
brary, Arngrímsgata 3
Tourist Information Centre,
Aðalstræti 2
Icelandic Travel Market: Bankastræti 2
Opening hours
Bars and clubs: According to regula-
tions bars may be open until 01:00 on
weekdays and 05:30 on weekends.
Shops: Mon-Fri 10-18, Sat 10-16, Sun
closed. The shopping centres Kringlan
and Smáralind as well as most super-
markets and tourist shops have longer
opening hours.
Swimming pools: weekdays
06:30-22:30, weekends 08:00-20:30
although some may be open an hour
longer.
The State owned ÁTVR liquor
stores: Mon-Thu 11-18, Fri 11-19, Sat
11-18.
Banks in the centre are open Mon-Fri
09-16.
Getting Around
Public transport
The only public transport system in
Reykjavík is the bus. Most busses run
every 20 minutes and price per fare is
250 ISK for adults and 75 ISK for chil-
dren. Complete route map at: www.
bus.is. Tel: 540 2700
Busses run from 07:00-24:00 on
weekdays and 10:00-24:00 on week-
ends
Rent a bike
Borgarhjól, Hverfisgata 50,
Tel: 551 5653, www.borgarhjol.net
HI Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34,
Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is
Tourist Information Centre,
Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550,
www.visitreykjavik.is
Taxi
Hreyfill-Bæjarleiðir,
Tel: 553 3500 or 588 5522
BSR, Tel: 561 0000
For disabled travellers
Reykjavík Group Travel Service,
Brunastaðir 3, Tel: 587 8030, www.
randburg.com/is/reykjavik_group_trav-
el_service/
A useful brochure, Accessible Reykja-
vík, can be found at tourist offices.
Car rentals
Átak Car Rental, Smiðjuvegur 1,
Tel: 554 6040
ALP, Dugguvogur 10, Tel: 562 6060
Avis, Knarravogi 2, Tel: 591 4000
Eurocar, Hjallahraun 9, Tel: 565 3800
A.G Car Rental, Tangarhöfði 8-12.
Tel: 587 5544
Atlas Car Rental, Dalshraun 9,
Tel: 565 3800
Berg Car Rental, Tangarhöfða 8,
Tel: 577 6050
Hertz, Flugvallavegur, Tel: 505 0600
Airlines
Air Iceland, Reykjavíkurflugvöllur,
Tel: 570 3030, www.flugfelag.is
Air Vestmannaeyjar, Tel: 481 3255,
www.eyjaflug.is
Bus Terminal
BSÍ, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10,
Tel: 562 1011, www.bsi.is
Samferda.net
A reasonable choice for the budget
traveller. You log on to the website
www.samferda.net, choose your
destination and hopefully find a travel
buddy to share the cost.
The Intercultural Centre
The Intercultural Centre throws oc-
casional cultural events and confer-
ences but its main purpose is to be an
information and counselling centre
and serve as an advocate for the rights
of immigrants in Iceland.
Hverfisgata 18, Tel: 530 9300
www.ahus.is
Icelandic Travel Market
Bankastræti 2, Tel: 510 5700,
www.kleif.is
Information on day tours, accommo-
dations, car rental and everything else
you need to know when travelling in
Iceland.
Iceland Visitor
Lækjargata 2, Tel: 511 2442,
www.icelandvisitor.com
A travel agency offering travelling
package trips and custom-made tours
as well as car rental, day tours and
accommodations for visitors.
Tourist Information Centre
Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550,
www.visitreykjavik.is
Offers information for tourists as well
as providing internet access, booking
service, a phone centre, money ex-
change service, tax refund and selling
the Reykjavík Tourist Card. The Reykja-
vík Tourist Card gives admission to city
busses, various museums, Reykjavík
swimming pools, The Family Park and
Reykjavík Zoo, The Culture House and
the National and University Library.
The Icelandic Tourist Board
Lækjargata 3, Tel: 535 5500,
www.visiticeland.com
All information needed before travel-
ling in Iceland.
Goethe Institute
Túngata 14, Tel: 561 5921,
www.goethe.de/island
A cultural institute that offers movie
screenings, lectures and German
language courses.
Nordic House
Sturlugata 5, Tel: 551 7030,
www.nordice.is
The Nordic cultural centre organises
various cultural events, conferences
and exhibitions.
All major tourist spots in Reykjavík also
offer brochures, maps and information
for travellers.
Useful Information
Where to learn Icelandic as a
foreign language
Icelandic on the Internet,
www.vefskoli.is
Mímir Continuing Education,
Skeifán 8, Tel: 580 1800, www.mimir.is
Námsflokkar Reykjavíkur,
Fríkirkjuvegur 1, Tel: 551 2992
Fjölmenning, Laugavegur 59,
Tel: 511 1319, www.fjolmenning.is
The Icelandic College of Engineer-
ing and Technology, Höfðabakki 9,
Tel: 577 1400, www.thi.is
Iðnskólinn í Reykjavík,
Skólavörðuholti, Tel: 552 6240,
www.ir.is
The University of Iceland – Depart-
ment of Continuing Education,
Dunhagi 7, Tel: 525 4924,
www.endurmenntun.is
Religious movements
The national church in Iceland is the
Evangelical Lutheran Church. Masses
are generally held on Sundays at 11:00
in churches all around the capital.
Service in English is at Hallgrímskirkja
every last Saturday each month, start-
ing at 14:00. The Roman Catholic
Church also has masses in English and
Polish.
Other religious movements in Reykja-
vík are for example:
The Muslim Association of Iceland,
Ármúli 38
Ásatrú Association, Grandagarði 8
Bahá’í, Álfabakka 12
The Church of Evangelism,
Hlíðasmári 9
The Icelandic Buddhist Movement,
Víghólastígur 21
Reykjavík Free Lutheran Church,
Fríkirkjuvegur 5
Pentecostal Assembly, Hátún 2
Roman Catholic Church,
Hávallagata 14
Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-
Day Saints, Ásabraut 2
Jehovah’s Witnesses, Sogavegur 71
Seventh-Day Adventists,
Suðurhlíð 36

Zen Buddhism in Iceland,
Reykjavíkurvegur 31
Independent Church,
Háteigsvegur 101
The Russian Orthodox Church in
Iceland, Sólvallagata 10
The Cross, Hlíðasmári 5-7
Trade Unions
The Icelandic Federation of Labour,
Sætún 1, Tel: 535 5600, www.asi.is
The Federation of State and Mu-
nicipal employees, Grettisgata 89,
Tel: 525 8300, www.bsrb.is
The Association of Academics, Bor-
gartún 6, Tel: 581 2090, www.bhm.is
Efling, Sætún 1, Tel: 510 7500,
www.efling.is
The Commercial Workers’ Union,
Kringlan 7, Tel: 510 1700, www.vr.is
Union of Public Servants, Grettis-
gata 89, Tel: 525 8340, www.sfr.is
Useful Websites
www.visitreykjavik.is (The official
tourist website of Reykjavík)
www.gayice.is (Information about
the gay scene in Iceland)
www.fjolmenningarsetur.is
(The Multicultural Centre)
www.hostel.is
(Hostel International in Iceland)
www.vinnumalastofnun.is
(Public employment services)
www.gulalinan.is (The yellow pages)
www.leigulistinn.is (Rent a flat)
www.simaskra.is
(Icelandic telephone directory)
Where to get Work and residence permit: The
Directorate of Immigration, Skógarhlíð
6, Tel: 510 5400, www.utl.is.
Insurance and benefits: The State
Social Security Institute, Laugavegur
114-116, Tel: 560 4400, www.tr.is
Icelandic citizenship: Unless you
come from a Nordic country, foreign
citizens have to have had an unre-
stricted residence permit in Iceland for
at least seven years in order to get an
Icelandic citizenship although some
exceptions exist to that general rule.
Applications are at the Ministry of
Justice and Ecclesiastical Affairs,
Skuggasund, Tel: 545 9000,
www.domsmalaraduneyti.is
Unemployment benefits: Director-
ate of Labour, Public Employment
Service, Tryggvagata 17, Tel: 515 4800,
www.vinnumalastofnun.is
Icelandic social security number
(kennitala): National Register, Bor-
gartún 30, Tel: 560 9800,
www.hagstofa.is
Driver’s license: Those who have a
foreign license don’t need an Icelandic
one for the first six months. After that
time you have one month to apply for
an Icelandic driver’s license. Applica-
tions are at police stations.
Tax card: Tax office, Laugavegur 166,
Tel: 563 1100, www.rsk.is
Rent subsidies: Social Service Office,
Tryggvagata 17, Tel: 411 9000 www.
felagsthjonustan.is
Facts on Iceland
Iceland is a constitutional repub-
lic with slightly more than 300,000
inhabitants. Reykjavík has been the
country’s capital since 1786 and today
almost two-thirds of the population
live in the greater capital area.
The 17th of June 1944 Iceland
became an independent republic.
That day is the national holiday and is
celebrated all around the country.
Alþingi, the national parliament,
is the oldest assembly in the world,
established at Þingvellir in 930 but
restored in Reykjavík in 1844. The par-
liament is comprised of 63 members,
who are elected by popular vote every
four years. Icelandic citizens over 18
years of age have the legal right to
vote.
Parliamentary elections were last
held in 2003 with 33.7 percent of
votes going to the Independence
Party. The Social Democratic Alliance
got 31 percent, the Progressive Party
17.7 percent, the Leftist-Greens 8.8
percent and the Liberal Party 7.4 per-
cent. The Independence Party and the
Progressive Party formed a coalition
and together lead the government.
Iceland has 12 ministers with the
prime minister and head of govern-
ment being Geir H. Haarde, who is
also chairman of the Independence
Party. The President of Iceland is Ólafur
Ragnar Grímsson, who has been in
office since 1996. He is the Chief of
State although his duties are mostly
ceremonial.
Time Zone: GMT 0
Currency: Íslensk króna (ISK).
International Dialling Code: +354
Weather: Average temperature dur-
ing summer is around 10ºC and winter
0ºC. For information on weather in
Iceland visit www.vedur.is or Tel: 902
0600.
Cultural Centres and
Tourist Offices
23. February 2007 – 26. May 2007
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Draught Beer (Large) ...............................500kr
Mojito ........................................................700kr
Cuba Libra ................................................700kr
Cosmopolitan...........................................700kr
Espresso Martini ........................................700kr
Sex on the Beach.....................................700kr
Long Island Iced Tea................................700kr
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Black/White Russian.................................700kr
Becks Bucket of Beer (4 for 3) .................3800kr
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