Reykjavík Grapevine - 04.08.2008, Síða 52

Reykjavík Grapevine - 04.08.2008, Síða 52
Food & Drink | Venue finder Aktu Taktu Skúlugata 15 | K8 This drive-in destination in 101 Reykjavík is busy day and night and the burgers are especially tasty. The caramel shakes are a local favorite. American Style Tryggvagata 26 | E5 With a soft bun and lots of veggies, you can settle into a booth and eat for hours. Big portions for authentic Ameri- can dining. Argentína Steakhouse Barónstígur | I8 True to its name with tender steaks and flamingly vibrant South American décor. Gen- erous portions, fine wine, liqueurs and cigars make an excellent choice in fine dining. Austurlandahraðlestin Hverfisgata 64A | H7 Though a bit expensive for take-away, it is well worth it for a spicy bite of this Indian cuisine. A few tables to the side for those who choose to dine in. Á Næstu Grösum Laugavegur 20B | G7 Regarded by many to be the best vegetarian place in town, “First Vegetarian” offers a healthy and tasty menu of vegetarian and vegan dishes. Indian theme on Fridays a hit. B5 Bankastræti 5 | F6 By day a chic little bistro with good food and a prime location for Laugavegur people watching | by night a stylish bar with a “whiskey room” and manhattanesque clientele. Babalú Skólavörðustígur 22A | G8 It’s tough to miss café Babalú walking up Skólavörðustigur. A cozy place for coffee and cake, the well-worn, homey ambience makes it difficult to leave. Bæjarins Beztu Tryggvagata | E6 The oldest fast-food in Ice- land, it is feasibly the best hot dog stand in Europe. Don’t be intimidated by the perpetual line in front – an absolute must and worth the wait. Café Cultura Hverfisgata 18 | G6 Situated in the intercultural centre, Cultura is a café/bar with a cosmopolitan feel. The menu features all sorts of international dishes, along- side the staple salad and sandwich. Café Paris Austurstræti 14 | E6 With an outdoor terrace, this café gets busy on sunny days. With a cosy interior, fine menu and attentive service, it makes a fine spot for evening dining as well. Café Roma Rauðarárstígur 8 | J9 Roma, an Italian deli and café offers a variety of breads, soups as well as tempting desserts. For a good bargain, come at lunchtime for the specials. Café Victor Hafnarstræti 1-3 | D6/E6 A hangout for older foreign- ers, Victor attracts a diverse crowd, both in age and origin, a rule that extends to the mu- sicians that play there. Domo Þingholtsstræti 5 | F7 The elegantly decorated Domo serves delicious French-Asian cuisine, excel- lent sushi and has a great wine list. A sure choice. Eldsmiðjan Bragagata 38A | G9 Totally satisfying oven-baked pizza with a wide choice of toppings | snails an unusual specialty. Well worth the cost. Order, take away or eat com- fortably among the paintings. Fiskmarkaðurinn Aðalstræti 12 | D6 Run and co-owned by the national team of chefs, this establishment specializing in Japanese cuisine has everything planned to the last detail, ensuring a relaxing evening. 3 Frakkar Baldursgata 14 | F9 A seriously Icelandic at- mosphere and traditional Icelandic dishes prepared in the good old-fashioned way. RSVP and keep your ears pricked for wild whaling tales! Geysir Bar/Bistro Aðalstræti 2 | D6 Situated in the dignified Geysir Building at the corner of Vesturgata and Aðalstræti, this stylish bistro is always a good place to grab a tasty bite for a reasonable price. Garðurinn Klappastigur 37 | G7 “Ecstasy’s Heart” is a simple, friendly, family-run vegetarian restaurant on Klapparstígur. Offers an ever-changing menu of specials and soup du jours, alongside a basic menu Grái Kötturinn Hverfisgata 16A | G7 Legendary for its early open- ing ours, the Gray Cat serves amazing breakfasts and coffee that packs a wallop. A splendid way to start you off on your day. Great Wall Restaurant Vesturgata 6-8 | D5 This Chinese restaurant features a staggering 100+ dishes in traditional Szechuan, Peking and Cantonese styles. Great service and good food make this one a fine choice. Grillhúsið Tryggvagata 20 | E5/E6 With a menu of reasonably priced homestyle food, Grill- húsið has satiated hungry regulars since 1994 with juicy burgers, sandwiches, steaks and fish dishes. Hamborgarabúlla Tómasar (“Bullan”) Geirsgata 1 | D5 Considered by some to be the best real hamburger in Reyk- javík, “Bullan” does serve some mysteriously delicious burgers, guaranteed to take the edge off any hangover. Hlölla Bátar Ingólfstorg | D6 The first sub sandwich shop in Iceland, Hlölla Bátar has a large selection of creatively named sandwiches with equally imaginative contents. Good for an adventurous bite. Hornið Hafnarstræti 15 | E6 Since 1979, this Italian res- taurant has been a longtime Reykjavík staple. Famous for its pizza and stuffed calzones, it proudly offers an affordable menu of high-quality dishes Hótel Holt Bergstaðarstræti 37 | F7 Housing Iceland´s most renowned restaurant, The Gallery, an evening here is an unforgettable experience. Delicious French-inspired cuisine and fine wines await. Humarshúsið Ammtmanstígur 1 | E7 One of the oldest restaurants in the country, the lobster house is known of course for its lobster and also its im- pressive cognac lounge. Fine intimate dining. Hressó Austurstræti 20 | E6 With a spacious neutral inte- rior and a varied lunch menu, Hressó attracts no specific type of crowd. Tap beer and music makes a fair hangout on weekends. Icelandic Fish & Chips Tryggvagata 8 | E5 Not your average fish’n’chips joint, but a healthy restaurant using only organic vegetables and quality fish products. The spiced skyr side a special treat. Indian Mango Frakkarstígur 12 | H8 Specializing in delicious dishes from the Goa region of India, honed to perfection in the owner’s period as head chef at the Four Seasons. Incredible service as well as food. Jómfrúin Lækjargata 4 | E6 These days, good Smör- rebröd can be an elusive delicacy. Lucky for us out in the colonies, it’s alive and well at Jómfrúin with fresh eel imported specially from Denmark. Kaffi Hljómalind Laugavegur 21 | G7 This organic, free-trade café prides itself not only on great lunches and food but being a strong cultural center, hosting live music as well as lectures and poetry nights. Kaffitár Bankastræti 8 | F6 Kaffitár celebrates good coffee, and serves it in abundance, along with sweet treats and tasty if pricy spe- cial blends. Eat in or to go, a great way to enjoy your morn- ing boost. Kaffivagninn Grandagarður 10 | D1 By the harbor, this lunch and coffee place is a gathering place for all sorts of tough folks. If you want traditional Icelandic food, a great place to see another side of Reyk- javík. Kofi Tómasar Frændu Laugavegur 2 | F7 Nestled in a basement loca- tion, Uncle Tom´s Cabin has the feeling of a back-alley London Café. On weekends it becomes a happening and diverse bar. Krua Thai Tryggvagata 14 | D5 We dare you to find a bet- ter meal for the same price anywhere else. Every dish is delicious. Just eat what looks best to you on their colorful menu. La Primavera Austurstræti 9 | E6 Though it sounds strange, La Primavera serves delicious traditional North Italian cui- sine using only local produce. A startlingly tasty combina- tion and a local favorite. Mokka Skólavörðustígur 3A | F7 Operating since 1958, Mokka is the city center´s oldest cof- fee joint and founder of Ice- landic coffee culture. Regular art exhibits are always worth a look. Nonnabiti Hafnarstræti 9 | E6 “Nonna” is one of the more popular junk-food places in town, renowned for its greasy sandwiches and its unique Nonni-sauce. Open late for a midnight cravings. O Sushi Lækjargata 2A | E6 Also called “The Train”, O Su- shi’s most intriguing feature is a conveyor belt that runs around the entire restaurant delivering a buffet of authen- tic sushi straight to your table. Pizza King Hafnarstræti 18 | E6 This little place serves not only the cheapest but larg- est slices downtown. A local favorite, and open until 6 on Friday and Saturday nights. Pizza Pronto Vallarstræti 4 | D6 With a convenient location and late hours, a good place to snack in between bars. Three sizes of pizza with a good selection of toppings. A cheap, if unhealthy, choice. Prikið Bankastræti 12 | F6 Part of the Reykjavík bar scene for decades, this café/ bar has a fairly cheap menu and attracts a mix of students and old regulars. Mostly R&B and Hip-Hop on weekends. Raðhúskaffi | D7 Tjarnargata 11 Located in the City Hall with a great view of the pond, this café has a good selection of pastries and a good place to relax. Regular art exhibits add to the aesthetic. Sægreifinn Verbuð 8, Geirsgata | D5 Right next to the harbor, Sægrefinn fish shop is like none other in the country. With a diverse fish selection, exquisite lobster soup and good service, an absolute must-try. Segafredo Lækjatorg | E6 The Italian coffee chain makes its way to Lækjatorg Square, bringing strong espresso and Italian lunch snacks to grab on the way to work or just to enjoy on the spot. Shalimar Austurstræti 4 | E6 Shalimar sports the conceit of being the northernmost Indian restaurant in the world and has fine daily specials. We recommend the quite ad- dictive chicken tikka masala. Sjávarkjallarinn Aðalstræti 2 | D6 Elegant Seafood Cellar fo- cuses on gourmet seafood and tantalizing asian-fusion dishes. Share the exotic menu, courses selected by the chef, with a friend for the most fun. Sólon Bankastræti 7a | F6 Truly a jack-of-all trades establishment. By night a decent restaurant, by day a café/bistro and on Friday and Saturday nights a nightclub. Art exhibitions on the walls to top it off. Sushibarinn Laugavegur 2 | F7 Deceptively ordinary Sushi- barinn has recently become the talk of the town among Reykjavík sushi lovers, serv- ing, in our opinion, the very best rolls in city. Svarta Kaffi Laugavegur 54 | H8 A cosy second floor café, their fame lies partly in their tasty Súpa í Brauði (Soup in Bread) and also in their ro- mantic atmosphere. Good for a few early evening drinks. Tapas Vesturgata 3B | D5 For those with a bit of money and time to spare, Tapas serves course after course of delightful miniature dishes. Also serves tasty and unusu- ally affordable lobster. Thorvaldsen Austurstræti 8 | E6 Dress formally for this fancy spot, and come before 12 to avoid a long line. DJs play Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Tíu Dropar Laugavegur 27 | G7 An old-fashioned café with warm atmosphere and gener- ous coffee refills. A thorough- ly pleasant establishment. Tjarnarbakkinn Vonarstræti 3 | D7 Right above the Iöno theater, an ideal place to go before shows. Nice views of the pond and outdoor dining in the summertime. The lamb comes especially recom- mended. Vegamót Vegamótastígur 4 | G7 Vegamót´s kitchen is open until 22.00 daily and sports an appealing lunch menu. Come for a tasty brunch on week- ends. If you like Óliver, try Vegamót and vice versa. Við Tjörnina Templarasund 3 | E7 A Reykjavík classic with menu exclusively of traditional cui- sine, as frequented by tourists as it is by locals. A perfect opportunity to try Icelandic delicacies. Vitabar Bergþórugata 21 | H9 Really a bar, but best known for its hamburgers. Burger and fries for 500 one of the best deals in town, but Forget-Me-Not blue cheese and Garlic Extravaganza are alse winners. Vor Laugavegur 24 | G7 Though perhaps a typical off-lobby restaurant/bar/café, don’t let it fool you! It’s run by an award-winning chef and has a tip-top menu | a won- derful culinary experience. Where: Lokastígur 28 101 Reykjavík How much: 500-1500 ISK What we think: Where: Ingólfsstræti 1 101 Reykjavík Tel.: 595 8540 How much: 1.000-3.000 ISK What we think: Just opened, Café Loki is a needed addition to Reykjavík’s restaurant scene. Since I got to Reykjavík, I have long been looking to sample traditional Icelandic cuisine, with no suc- cess in finding something both affordable and tasty. Café Loki does all that and more. With a neat, airy décor and a splendid view of Hallgrímskirkja, Café Loki is the perfect place to take a load off your feet and enjoy some solid homemade Icelandic food. We began our meal with a spelt bagel with smoked trout, spinach and cottage cheese, and a sheep’s head jelly with carrots and peas in a cream sauce. My bagel with trout was tasty and basic, and surprisingly light for what I expected to be a pretty dense starter. The f latbread with sheep’s head jelly that my com- rade ordered was even better. The jelly (something neither of us had tried before) was savoury and salty, the fatty stickiness balanced by the thin and creamy sauce with the peas and carrots. Content with our starters, we looked forward to our next dish, something on the menu called “Icelandic Plate II.” The Ice- landic plate II covered all sorts of Icelandic staples. We had more smoked trout with cottage cheese along with a delicious fish stew with chives, this time on slices of rye bread. In little bowls, we had a sampling of fermented shark, cut into little cubes, and some dried fish with Icelandic butter. Our first time trying either of these things, we were delighted with the dried fish and butter, and vaguely re- pulsed by the fermented shark, certainly an acquired taste, but actually not as bad as either of us had anticipated. At last, we were served thin pancakes with jam and cream – a sweet end to a wonderful meal. Stepping outside into the bright summer day, patting our full and satiated bellies, we agreed that this had been a really excellent meal. With a menu of light and tasty things in a great setting for an unbeat- able price, this fresh-faced new restaurant can really deliver. Whether you’re a foreigner look- ing to sample the national cui- sine or a local just looking for an old favourite from your child- hood, Café Loki is a great little spot just to sit back and enjoy yourself. We wish them the best of luck. Appearances can be deeply de- ceptive. In the case of the ex- terior of the recently-opened Arnarhvoll, this is a welcome realisation as the outside is a mush of grey stone with barely more than an average front door to welcome guests. In contrast, take the lift to the top f loor res- taurant and you’ll forgive the monochrome building as one of Reykavík’s finest mountain views f loods into the snowy white dining room whilst the outside terrace is even more ex- traordinary. I chose to have the three-course menu as I’d previ- ously eaten lunch at the Arnar- hvoll and found the main course portion sizes to be amusingly small (“I didn’t order a starter… oh”) but skilfully presented and completely delicious. The first course – a plate of goat’s cheese, Parma ham, beet- root, caramelised baby onions and tiny slices of crisped bread accompanied by assorted foams and dashes of sauce – was the very essence of nouvelle cuisine. Little actual cooking had gone into the dish, but each tiny is- land of beetroot or parcel of ham and cheese was presented with a surgeon’s eye for precision and which equally satisfied the eye and taste bud with the smooth, rich cheese proving to be the perfect foil for the tart ham and the onions bursting with rich juice. The addition of the chef’s trick du jour, f luffy foam served in extravagant f lourishes around the plate, was unneces- sary but showed that the cook really cared about elevating his food above the sum of its ingre- dients. Icelandic lamb is one of the country’s national treasures and the main course did it justice with a delicious medium-rare fillet served in a burnt butter re- duction alongside, most memo- rably, a lambs tongue. Whilst the fillet was rich and tender, as expected in a top restaurant, the tongue was a revelation with its dense meat providing a perfect balance between texture and f lavour. The two carrots and two chips accompanying the dish suggested, however, that the idea of minimal nouvelle cuisine has been taken a little too seriously. The dessert was a standard chocolate mousse served with a divine but minuscule helping of coconut ice-cream. Less may be more in some cases but when the food is this good, less is sim- ply dinner deprivation. Food café loKi Food center hotel arnahvoll B10 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 10 2008 Food reviews Reviewed by Nathaniel Flagg Reviewed by Nathaniel Flagg 7 G9 8 F6

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