Reykjavík Grapevine - 02.12.2011, Blaðsíða 50

Reykjavík Grapevine - 02.12.2011, Blaðsíða 50
AðfAngAdAgur (Ath-founga-dager) December 24th, Aðfangadagur, is the day Ice- landers celebrate Christmas (as opposed to December 25th in most countries). The first half of the day usually goes towards finishing off all of the last minute preparations, making food, wrapping presents, bathing and putting on nice clothes. Children are often occupied by the television set, as most stations broadcast a non-stop programme of cartoons throughout the day. Six o’ clock marks the official start of Christmas in Iceland, and this is when most households sit down to enjoy a pleasant holiday meal. After dinner, most people commence opening their presents. They then hang out and indulge until bedtime. AðventA (Ath-venta) Aðventan, or the Advent, is the month lead- ing up to Christmas. Icelanders celebrate each Sunday of the Advent (starting on the fourth Sunday prior to Christmas) by lighting candles on an Advent Wreath (“Aðventukrans”), which is usually a four-candle (one for each Sunday of the Advent) evergreen wreath. The first Sun- day of Advent marks the time most Icelanders start decorating for the holidays and preparing in general. AðventukrAns (Ath-ventou-kraans) See: Aðventa. Aðventuljós (Ath-ventou-lyows) Aðventuljós, or Advent light, is a decorative ob- ject somewhat unique to Iceland. This seven- armed electric candlestick is found in at least one window of almost every Icelandic home throughout the holiday season. See our Xmas guide for more info. AnnAr í jólum (Aann-arr ee yo!-luwm) December 26th, the second day of Christmas, is the designated party day of the holiday sea- son (New Year’s notwithstanding). The day it- self usually entails heavy lounging and attend- ing a family Christmas party or two, but the evening has most of the action, with bars and clubs opening for business around midnight. Revellers like to go out at that time, decked in their fancy holiday attire and re-connecting with friends and acquaintances that they haven’t seen for all of three days. ÁrAmót (our-a-mowt) See: Gamlársdagur/Gamlárskvöld. ÁrAmótAAnnÁll (our-a-mowt-a-annoudl) Icelanders are fond of watching television on New Year’s Eve, with most of the day’s pro- gramming dedicated to detailing the fast fad- ing year’s events. Second to the Áramótaskaup in popularity is the Áramótaannáll on RÚV, a collage of the year’s TV news stories with com- mentary from the news team. An international version and a local one run back to back. Check newspapers’ TV listings for more info. ÁrAmótAskAupIð (our-a-mowt-a-skoj-pith) Gathering around the TV on New Year’s Eve to watch the Áramótaskaup comedy special on RÚV is an old and honoured Icelandic tradi- tion—in fact the streets fall completely silent during its broadcast time of 22:30-23:30. The show itself is a comedy revue featuring many of Iceland’s best-loved actors that parodies the year’s events in sketches and song. The qual- ity differs from year to year, but Icelanders love even the especially bad ones (because then they can complain to each other about how much it sucked). It is not subtitled, so the fun is likely lost on non-Icelandic speakers. It’s worth checking out, though, you can always make fun of Icelandic TV’s low production standards. AttIre Icelanders like to dress smart and snazzy over the holidays. Formal attire is usually expected in the parties of the 24th and 25th, on other days go for neat casual outfits. ChrIstmAs musIC Iceland doesn’t have a lot of original Xmas songs, although there are a few to be found. Mostly the tunes meant to get you into the holiday spirit are translations of international Xmas ones (some of them don’t have anything whatsoever to do with Xmas), so the stuff blar- ing from the radio in the knick-knack shop should sound familiar. There are some popu- lar local songs, however, the most infamous one being Sniglabandið’s Jólahjól (“Christmas bike”). ChrIstmAs stoCkIngs See also: Jólasveinar, Santa Claus The Christmas stockings tradition is cel- ebrated in Iceland, although it differs greatly from what you might be used to. As explained elsewhere, there are thirteen Yuletide lads in Iceland, and each one comes down from the mountains on a designated day before Christ- mas bearing gifts for children to be placed in their shoe or stocking left by an open window. It should be noted that well-behaved children receive something of value, whereas ill be- haved children usually receive a rotten potato. CommerCe See also: Þorláksmessa Like elsewhere, Christmas and commerce have very close ties in Iceland. Stores stay open until 11 PM on Þorláksmessa, the 23rd of De- cember, and until noon on the day of Christ- mas Eve. This is done in a mutual agreement between late shoppers and greedy shop own- ers who want to make sure that no króna is left behind. dAnCIng See also: Jólaboð, jólaball, jólatré Dancing around the Christmas tree is still a widespread fad at Christmas dances in chil- dren’s schools around the country, but the tradition is slowly dying out as a practice in homes. It involves holding hands around the tree and walking repeatedly in circles whilst singing Christmas carols. Hours of fun. deCorAtIng See also: Aðventa, Aðventuljós Icelanders like to decorate their houses a lot in time for Christmas, with the start of Ad- vent usually marking the official ‘OK time’ for decking the halls. Decorations are simi- lar to what may be found in the rest of the Christmas-celebrating world: pine branches, light sets, Santa-related effigies and various knick-knacks and doodads. American style lighting monstrosities are uncommon, but not unheard of. drInkIng See also: Annar í jólum, Gamlársdagur/Gam- lárskvöld Heavy drinking is generally not condoned on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day—although indulging in a glass of wine or two isn't frowned upon—as the days’ festivities are gen- erally reserved for family activities. The 26th, 31st and New Year’s Day are popular for binge drinking and partying, however, as are any weekend days that fall between the two days. eAtIng out See also: Christmas buffets, commerce Icelanders generally don’t like to eat out during the holiday season. If you are visiting, and you plan on dining at a restaurant during the holi- days (see our special Xmas listings for details), chances are you’ll be dining with some fellow tourists. However, attending special Xmas buffets is a popular activity over the advent. fAmIly Icelandic Christmas is all about one’s family, extended and otherwise. Generally speaking, most Icelanders will be busy spending time with their families from December 24th un- til the eve of the 26th, so don’t expect that hot boy (or girl) you hook up with on the 23rd to be available for any immediate follow-up sessions (you should still try, though). flugeldAr (flug-oeld-arrrrr) See also: Gamlársdagur/ Gamlárskvöld Flugeldar (“fireworks”) are an essential part of the Icelandic New Year’s Eve experience, in fact, the sale and deployment of fireworks is only legal in Iceland between December 28—January 6. Like everything else Icelanders are fond of, they take their fireworks seriously—most of those who have witnessed the mass employ- ment of fireworks at New Year’s will agree that the act is far beyond over-the-top. But most will also attest that the display is striking and beau- tiful. An added bonus is that most of the places selling them are doing so for charity, or to fund rescue teams. Expect small blasts here and there as of December 27th, culminating in an all-out orgy of explosions around midnight of New Year’s Eve. gAmlÁrsdAgur/gAmlÁrskvöld (gaaml-ouwrs-daager / kvoeld) See also: Fireworks, drinking, Áramótaskaup, Áramótaannáll, Áramótabrenna [Note: Gam- lársdagur refers to New Year’s Eve’s Day, and Gamlárskvöld refers to New Year’s Eve itself] The coming of the New Year is celebrated pretty heavily in Iceland. Drinks are drunk, fireworks are lit and vomit is, eventually, spewed. Although there is no rule, most folks like to gather for a nice dinner feast with fam- ily and/or friends at the start of the evening (or late in the afternoon). They hang out, drink drinks, play board games and watch the TV recap of the preceding year. Many head out to their local New Year’s bonfire, a complete list of which is published in local newspapers on the days leading up to the 31st. After watching the Áramótaskaup comedy revue and lighting some fireworks, most will head to a rowdier, less family oriented gather- ing and stay there ‘til dawn. A note about the word “áramót”: like many Icelandic words, it is impressively and descrip- tively sensible, and it does not have a counter- part in the English language. Quite literally, “áramót” translates as “the meeting of years”. Makes sense, doesn’t it? hAngIkjöt (Hownge-kjoet) See also: Jólamatur Hangikjöt—literally meaning “hung meat”— is smoked Icelandic lamb which takes its name from the old tradition of smoking food in order to preserve it by hanging it from the rafters of a smoking shed. Hangikjöt is traditional Christmas meat, often served with potatoes in a sweet white sauce and pickled red cabbage. It’s pretty awesome. hAmborgArhryggur (Haam-bouwrger-hreggurrrr) See also: Dining A traditional Christmas food eaten on the 24th at six o'clock. It is pork, usually with a honey glazing and pineapple, cooked in an oven for a few hours. This is a pretty heavy meal, resulting in the number of heart attacks in- creasing around Xmas when people who re- ally shouldn’t eat fatty meat gorge themselves almost to death. heItt súkkulAðI (hate sooqou-laethi) Indulging in a cup of freshly made heitt súk- kulaði (“hot chocolate”) is an essential part of the Icelandic holiday experience. The classic recipe is thus: melt one plate of ‘Suðusúkku- laði’ (available everywhere one might buy choc- olate) in a double boiler with 1–2 cups of water. In a separate container, heat one litre of milk to the boiling point. Slowly stir melted chocolate into boiling milk. Enjoy. jólAbAll (yo!-la-boll) See also: Jólaboð The jólaball, or Christmas dance, is a long- standing tradition where children are herded by their parents or schools to hang out, eat cake and candy and dance around a decorated tree while singing some classic Christmas tunes. More often than not, one or more of the Yule lads will make an appearance and disburse small gifts of candies. jólAboð (yo!-la-boeth) The Icelandic Xmas party—jólaboð—is tradi- tionally a family gathering that involves copi- ous amounts of eating Christmas fare such as hangikjöt and cookies, drinking coffee and chocolate, talking about the weather and engaging in the latest board games (although Trivial Pursuit is always a classic). jólAdAgAtAl (yo!-la-dae-ga-tael) The jóladagatal (“Christmas calendar”) is used to count down the days from December 1st until the 24th and is a must for children of all ages—some adults like to indulge as well. The most common variety has a differently shaped piece of chocolate for each day, although some of the crappier ones just have dumb, holiday re- lated pictures. Some families like to craft their own, wrapping small gifts for each day. jólAdAgur (yo!-la-daguer) See also: Jólaboð Jóladagur—Christmas Day—is the big day for family gatherings and Christmas parties. Many like to sleep in and relax before putting on formal attire and heading out to a friend’s house to indulge in some hangikjöt or hot chocolate. Everything is closed. A very relaxed day, for most. jólAglögg (yo!-la-gludge) See also: Jólahlaðborð, drinking A hot beverage consisting of red wine, vodka, and spices. Often served with raisins. The word can also just mean a party of friends around Christmas time who get together un- der the pretext that they will drink Jólaglögg, when all they really want to do is drink any- thing with alcohol in it. You know, because of the dark. jólAhlAðborð (yo!-la-hlaeth-boerth) See also: Christmas dining, eating out, Hambo- rgarhryggur A fairly new tradition in Iceland, connected to the number of restaurants increasing in later years. A Jólahlaðborð is a Christmas buf- fet that people attend in groups, usually co- workers go together for a night of eating, but mostly drinking. Many a marriage has been put to a serious strain after a drunken night at a Jólahlaðborð. Something about Christmas brings out the adulterers in some people. jólAkort (yo!-la-kowrt) Many Icelanders choose to parlay greetings to their friends and loved ones over the holidays via the mailing of Christmas cards, or jólakort. They will most often feature a generic Christ- massy motif and some standard well wishes, although some use the opportunities to send along pictures of the family. jólAkötturInn (yo!-la-koett-ur-enn) To avoid, as the saying goes, “going to the Christmas cat,” children are required to re- ceive at least one piece of new clothing in time for Christmas each year. Otherwise, the cat will eat them. jólAmAtur (yo!-la-maw-tuer) See also: Christmas buffets, rjúpur, kæst ska- ta, hangikjöt, jólaöl, jólasmákökur Like in most other places, nourishing oneself over the holidays is all about indulgence. When it comes to jólamatur (“Christmas food”): the richer, sweeter, fattier and saltier, the better. jólAöl (yo!-la-oel) See also: Christmas dining The ultimate Christmas drink, Jólaöl (or: “Christmas ale”) is created by mixing an elu- sive ratio of Malt and Appelsín orange soda. Al- though you can now buy this drink premixed, it’s way more fun to mix it yourself, according to taste. Note that it contains no alcohol. Which is nice for a change. jólAsmÁkökur (yo!-la-smouw-koek-er) See also: Dining Jólasmákökur (“Christmas cookies”) are an essential part of the Icelandic holiday experi- ence. Most households bake their own cookies in the weeks leading up to Christmas, making an average of 3–5 different types. They are then consumed at Christmas gatherings or while lounging about with ones new presents. Some classic types include: Piparkökur (gin- ger snaps”), Mömmukökur (ginger snap-type cookies sandwiched around white frosting), súkkulaðibitakökur (chocolate chip cookies) and hálfmánar (rhubarb preserves wrapped in dough), although the varieties are endless. jólAtré (yo!-la-tr-yeah!) See also: Þorláksmessa, Christmas presents Icelanders’ Christmas trees are usually in- stalled on December Xmas | Dictionary 2the reykjavík grapevine Xmas special spectacular 2011 Issue 18 The A-Ö of the Icelandic holiday season The Encyclopaedia of Icelandic Holidays by haukur s magnússon Illustrations by Inga maria brynjarsdóttirWith additional reporting from Paul Fontaine, Sveinn Birkir Björnsson, Páll Hilmarsson and Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir
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