Reykjavík Grapevine - 02.12.2011, Blaðsíða 51

23rd, with the actual decorating taking place
on the 24th (although this does differ between
households). Various organisations, such as
the local rescue squads, sell live trees to fund
their operations, although private companies
also partake. Fake plastic trees aren’t very pop-
ular, although some folks prefer them.
kæst skAtA
(kjae-st skaaa-taaaa)
See also: Þorláksmessa
The consumption of kæst skata, or rotted
skate, on the 23rd of December is a holiday tra-
dition derived from the West fjords of Iceland.
The dish—which many swear by, and others
find especially foul—is most often imbibed at
special skate gatherings around noon on the
23rd, and is often served along with potatoes,
butter, rye bread and shots of brennivín (most
West Fjords experts recommend drinking
milk with the skate, as the fish is “intoxicating
in and of itself”).
The skate is a chondrichyte, and therefore
ferments when allowed to rot, as its urine
is distributed through its f lesh and goes
through a chemical change over time. They
are in fact poisonous if eaten before the fer-
mentation process is complete. It is fermented
by throwing it in a box and letting it lie for
three weeks.
lAufAbrAuð
(loi-fa-brau-eth)
See also: Aðventan
The making of laufabrauð, or “leaf-bread,” is
usually a family-affair taking place early in De-
cember. People gather together to cut intricate
patterns into this deep-fried, thin flatbread,
which is then enjoyed as a tasty snack to ac-
company any Christmas event or meal. It goes
exceedingly well with butter.
nýÁrsdAgur
(knee-ouwrs-da-guer)
See also: Drinking
Icelanders like to spend most of New Year’s
Day feeling hung-over and sorry for them-
selves. As the evening approaches, many will
start pulling themselves together and dressing
up for New Year’s Day banquets or parties that
have grown popular lately. Others will stay in
watching DVDs or something.
openIng hours
See also: Commerce, eating out
If you are touring in Iceland for the holiday
season, we can only hope someone told you
of Iceland’s antiquated opening hours for that
time. You will not have much luck locating
open restaurants—or open anything-else —
during Christmas or on New Year’s. Check out
our holiday listings guide for info on places
that are actually open and happy to serve you.
presents
See also: Commerce, Aðfangadagur, jólatré
Of course Xmas is all about the presents, and a
lot of debt is incurred during the season, even
though we’ve yet to discern completely how
the act of spreading goodwill through gifts
is affected by the full impact of the Kreppa.
There are no specific guidelines for Xmas gift
giving in Iceland, but a good rule of thumb is
to avoid being extravagant in your gift choices,
unless maybe something extravagant is called
for or expected on the other end.
Generally most folks tend to stick with
bestowing presents upon their immediate
family and loved ones, although some like to
spread the joy to their entire group of friends.
In any case, there’s nothing wrong with ask-
ing. Xmas presents are stored under the Xmas
tree until they’re due to be opened.
relIgIon And
ChurCh
Even though around
80% of them are en-
rolled in the State
Church, Icelanders
have never been known
to be particularly enthusiastic churchgoers
or observers of religious customs. Indeed,
Christmas isn’t a particularly religious holiday
in Iceland. However, many folks like to at-
tend Church services and concerts during the
holidays, particularly on the 24th and the 31st.
Check with your tourist information centre for
complete church listings.
The ringing of the church bells of Reyk-
javík’s Lutheran Cathedral is broadcast on all
major television and radio stations throughout
the country promptly at 18:00 on Christmas
Eve, at which point everyone wishes each other
a Merry Christmas and sits down to eat.
returnIng gIfts
See also: Commerce
Exchanging one’s Xmas gifts in lieu of some-
thing more desirable is a common practice in
Iceland. Most stores will accept returns until
the second week of January, although policies
differ.
rjúpur
(ryooe-purr)
See also: Jólamatur
Wild fowl rjúpur, or ptarmigan, are a popular
main course for many families Christmas
meals. The small birds can be delicious if
handled properly, and have a rich, gamey sort
of taste. The Grapevine recommends trying
some if you have the chance.
sAntA ClAus
See also: Jólasveinar
We have no need for your international big,
fat, jolly, capitalist greed-mongering Coca Cola
Santa Claus in Iceland, as we have thirteen of
our own that are much cooler. He still makes
an appearance from time to time. Oh we like
him fine enough, he’s a jolly good fellow and
all.
vACAtIons
Icelanders usually take pretty hefty Xmas va-
cations, with December 24, 25 and 26 all being
legal holidays, as well as December 31st and
January 1st. A lot of folks actually take Dec 23–
Jan 2 off entirely—so don’t expect a lot to get
done during the Xmas season.
ÞorlÁksmessA
(thoer-louwks-mess-a)
See also: Kæst skata, commerce
In celebration of one of only two Icelandic
saints, St. Þorlákur, Icelanders eat fermented
skate, which preferably is swallowed with copi-
ous amounts of Icelandic Brennivín schnapps.
Then, they will traditionally gather on the
shopping street Laugavegur to do some last
minute shopping (although some do the bulk
of their shopping on that day), drink Christ-
mas beer or hot chocolate and have a merry
ol’ time. Also, this is traditionally the day that
children are allowed to decorate the Christmas
tree.
ÞrettÁndInn
(thu-rhett-ouwn-din-n)
January 6 is Þrettándinn (“the thirteenth”),
the thirteenth and final day of Christmas ac-
cording to Icelandic tradition. The event is cel-
ebrated with torch processions, bonfires, fire-
works, and the king and queen of the hidden
people traditionally join the festivities. Back in
olden times, it was a scary time to be out and
about, as the hidden people can be surpris-
ingly sinister.
the reykjavík grapevine Xmas special spectacular 2011
Issue 18
Since many of you reading this may be tourists stranded in Iceland over the coming Holiday season, we decided to compile a little
list for you detailing what’s open, and when. Seeing as how most of the country pretty much shuts down during the Holidays, it
can be tricky enough to find places to eat and things to do, but hopefully this guide will keep you fed, watered and entertained. We
tried to make it as comprehensive as we could, but apologies if we've missed something.
A good rule of thumb to go by when planning any of your Holiday activities is to assume that most shops and restaurants are closed,
and just call up the ones you’re interested in checking out. This should help avoid any disappointments.
The Official Tourist Information Centre has the most up-to-date information so be sure to pay them a visit,
or check out www.visitreykjavik.is.
Xmas | Opening Hours
Holiday Opening Hours
Your Grapevine Guide
by Clyde bradford, eimear fitzgerald, jesse Ziebart and monika domeniková
public transport
City buses
24: Saturday service until 14:00
25: No service
26: Sunday service until 12:00
31: Saturday service until 14:00
1: No service
Bus Information: Call 540 2700
tours
The Official Tourist Information Centre
(The Centre)
24: 09:00–12:00
25: Closed
26, 31: 10:00–14:00
1: 09:00–18:00
reykjavík excursions:
24:Golden Circle, Gullfoss Direct,
Northern Lights (weather permitting),
Horseback riding, Whale watching.
25: Golden Circle, City, South shore,
Gullfoss, Northern Lights (weather per-
mitting), Snowmobiling, Super jeep.
Normal schedule from December 26
onward including New Year’s day.
See: www.re.is
Iceland excursions:
24: Golden Circle Classic, Greater Area
Reykjavík Sightseeing, The Blue La-
goon and Keflavík.
25: The Golden Circle Afternoon, Ice-
land from Below, Iceland from Below &
The Blue Lagoon, The Blue Lagoon.
31: All tours operating except: Blue
Lagoon/Viking Horse, Blue Lagoon at
16:15 and 16:30 and Northern Lights at
20:00.
There is a special New Years Eve tour
entitled Bonfire and Fireworks at 20:00.
Other days are operated according to
program and schedule.
See: www.grayline.is
pools
the blue lagoon
23: 10:00–17:00
24: 10:00–13:00 (restaurant closed)
25: 10:00–15:00 (restaurant closed)
26 : 10:00–20:00
31: 10:00–16:00
1: Regular opening hours
sundhöll reykjavíkur:
24: 08:00–12:30
25: Closed
26 : 10:00–18:00
31: 08:00–12:30
1: Closed
Árbæjarlaug: 567 3933
breiðholtslaug:
24: 09:00–12:30
25: Closed
26 : Closed
31: 09:00–12:30
1: Closed
grafarvogslaug: 510 4600
laugardalslaug: 553 4039
vesturbæjarlaug: 411 5150
24: 08:00–12:00
25: Closed
museums and galleries
24, 25, 26, 31, 1:
ASÍ Art Museum, Nordic House, Kling
& Bang, Saga Museum in Perlan, Hitt
Húsið, Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum,
Gljúfrasteinn Museum, Gerðuberg Cul-
tural Center : Closed.
gallerí Ágúst
24–1: open on appointment
2 onwards: Friday, Saturday, Sunday:
13:00–17:00
the Culture house
24: 11:00–14:00
25: Closed
26 (and all other days): 11:00–17:00
31: 11:00–14:00
1: 11:00–14:00
the national gallery
24, 25, 26, 31, 1: Closed
the reykjavík Art museum,
hafnarhús
24, 25: Closed
26-30: 13:00–17:00
31: 10:00–14:00
1: 13:00–17:00
kjarvalsstaðir
Open daily 10:00–17:00
24, 25, 31, 1: Closed
26 : 13:00–17:00
Ásmundur sveinsson sculpture
museum
24, 25, 31, 1: Closed
stores
kringlan shopping mall:
23: 10:00–23:00
24: 10:00–13:00
25, 26 : Closed
31: 10:00–13:00
1: Closed
vínbúðin (liquor store) Austur-
stræti
23: 11:00–22:00
24: 10:00–13:00
25, 26 : Closed
30: 11:00–20:00
31: 10:00–13:00
1: Closed
vínbúðin (liquor store) in other
places
24: 10:00–13:00
25, 26: Closed
31: 10:00–13:00
1: Closed
bars that got back to us
english pub
23: 12:00–04:30
24, 25: Closed
26 : 11:00–03:00 live football at 12:30
31: 12.00–04:30
esja
24, 25: Closed
26 : 16:00–03:00
27, 28, 29, 30, 31: Regular opening hours
satt bar:
24: 10:00–23:00
25: 10:00–00:00
26, 27, 28, 29, 30: 11:00–01:00
31: 10:00–01:00
1: 10:00–01:00
trúnó
23: 11:00–03:00
24, 25: Closed
26 : 18:00–03:00
27, 28, 29: 11:00–01:00
30: 11:00–04:30
31: 01:00–very late
1: 18:00–01:00
barbara
23: 17:00–03:00
24, 25: Closed
26 : 20:00–03:00
27, 28, 29: 20:00–01:00
30: 20:00–04:30
31: 01:00–very late
1: 18:00–01:00
vox lobby bar
24: 10:00–23:00
25: 10:00–00:00
26, 27, 28, 29: 10:00–01:00
30: 10:00–02:00
31, 1: 10:00–01:00
restaurants that got
back to us
bistró vox: hotel nordica
Open every day 11:30–22:30, except for:
24: 11:30–20:00
26 : 11:30–15:00
vox restaurant:
Open Wednesdays to Saturdays 18:30–
22:30, except on 24, 25, 1:
a special Festive 4 course Christmas
dinner served between 18:00 and 20:00
satt restaurant:
Open every day 11:00–22:00:
24: Lunch 12:00–14:00;
Dinner 18:00–20:30
25: Lunch 12:00–14:00;
Dinner 17:30–20:30
31: Lunch 12:00–14:00;
Dinner 18:00–21:00
1: Lunch 12:00–14:00;
Dinner 18:00–21:00
26-30: Five course menu á la Satt Res-
taurant will be served, 11:00–22:00
Café paris
24,25: closed
31: 9:00–18:00
1: 11:00–01:00
fiskfélagið/the fish Company
24,25: Closed
23, 26, 31, 1: Open
geysir bistro bar
24,25,26: Closed
31: Closed
1: 17.00–22.00
grillhúsíð
24, 25, 26, 31: Closed
1: 17.00 Onwards
fjalakötturinn: hotel reykjavik
Centrum
24, 25: 07:00–23.00
26-30: Regular opening hours
31: 07:00–01.00
1: Regular opening hours
Icelandic fish & Chips:
24-26 : Closed
31: 12:00–16:00
1: 17.00–21.00
íslenski barinn
24: Closed
25: 11:30–22:00
26 : 11:30–23:00
31: 11:30–23:00
1: 11:30–23:00
silfur
24: 11:30–21:00
25: Closed
26, 31: 18:00–22:00
1: 18:00–22:00
kaffi sólon
23: 11:00–01:00
24, 25: Closed
26, 27, 28, 29: 11:00–01:00
30: 11:00–02:00
31: 11:00–16:00, 18:00–22:00 (reserva-
tion needed-special New Years eve set
menu)
1: 12:00–02:00
lounge 1919
24,25, 26: 18.00–22.00
31: 18.00–22.00
restaurant & bar hotel 101
23: 07:00–01:00
24, 25: Closed
26 : 11:00–00:00
31: 07:00–01:00
1: 07:00–00:00