Reykjavík Grapevine - 06.12.2013, Page 49

days before Christmas.
The first is Stekkjastaur (Sheepfold Stick),
who tries to drink the milk from the farmers’
ewes.
On December 13, Giljagaur (Gully Oaf)
arrives. Before the days of milking machines,
he would sneak into the cowshed and skim
the froth off the pails of milk.
Next comes Stúfur
(Shorty) on December 14.
His name implies that he
is on the small side. He is
also known as
Pönnuskefill (pan-scrap-
er), as he scraped scraps
of food off the pans.
On December 15,
Þvörusleikir (Spoon-
licker) comes down from
the mountains. He steals wooden spoon s that
have been used for stirring. When he visits
the National Museum, he goes looking for
wooden spoons.
On December 16, Pottasleikir (Pot-licker)
comes visiting. He tries to snatch pots that
have not been washed, and licks the scraps
from them.
Askasleikir (Bowl-licker) arrives on
December 17. He hides under beds and if
someone puts his wooden food-bowl on the
floor, he grabs it and licks it clean.
Hurðaskellir (Door-slammer) comes on
December 18. He is an awfully noisy fellow,
who is always slamming doors and keeping
people awake.
The Lad who is expected on December 19
is called Skyrgámur (Curd Glutton), because
he loves skyr (milk curd) so much that he
sneaks into the pantry and gobbles up all the
skyr from the tub there.
Bjúgnakrækir (Sausage Pilferer) comes on
December 20. He loves sausages of all kinds,
and steals them whenever he can.
On December 21, Gluggagægir (Peeper)
arrives. He is not as greedy as some of his
brothers, but awfully nosy, peeping through
windows and even stealing toys he likes the
looks of.
On December 22 Gáttaþefur (Sniffer)
comes calling. He has a big nose, and loves
the smell of cakes being baked for Christmas.
He often tries to snatch a cake or two for
himself.
December 22 is sometimes called hlak-
kandi (looking forward), because the children
had started looking forward to Christmas.
On December 23, St. Þorlákur’s Day,
Ketkrókur (Meat Hook) arrives. He adores all
meat. In olden days he would lower a hook
down the kitchen chimney and pull up a
leg of lamb hanging from a rafter, or a bit of
smoked lamb from a pan, as smoked lamb
was traditionally cooked on St. Þorlákur’s Day.
Kertasníkir (Candle Beggar) comes on
Christmas Eve, December 24. In olden times,
candlelight was the brightest light available.
Candles were so rare and precious that it was
a treat for children to be given a candle at
Christmas. And poor Candle Beggar wanted
one too.
During the thirteen days before Christ-
mas, the National Museum presents actors
dressed as the old-school Jólasveinar. They
show up around 11 AM each day. National
Museum, Suðurgata 41, 101 Reykjavík. Tel.
530 2200.
Originally appeared in issue 16/2005.
See story on page 2
JÓLATRÉ
(yo!-la-tr-yeah!)
See also: Þorláksmessa, Christmas presents
Icelanders’ Christmas trees are usually in-
stalled on December 23rd, with the actual
decorating taking place on the 24th (although
this does differ between households). Vari-
ous organisations, such as the local rescue
squads, sell live trees to fund their operations,
although private companies also partake. Fake
plastic trees aren’t very popular, although
some folks prefer them.
KÆST SKATA
(kjae-st skaaa-taaaa)
See also: Þorláksmessa
The consumption of kæst skata, or rotted
skate, on the 23rd of December is a holiday tra-
dition derived from the Westfjords of Iceland.
The dish—which many swear by, and others
find especially foul—is most often imbibed at
special skate gatherings around noon on the
23rd, and is often served along with potatoes,
butter, rye bread and shots of brennivín (most
West Fjords experts recommend drinking
milk with the skate, as the fish is “intoxicating
in and of itself”).
The skate is a chondrichyte, and therefore
ferments when allowed to rot, as its urine
is distributed through its f lesh and goes
through a chemical change over time. They
are in fact poisonous if eaten before the fer-
mentation process is complete. It is fermented
by throwing it in a box and letting it lie for
three weeks.
LAUFABRAUÐ
(loi-fa-brau-eth)
See also: Aðventan
The making of laufabrauð, or “leaf-bread,” is
usually a family-affair taking place early in De-
cember. People gather together to cut intricate
patterns into this deep-fried, thin flatbread,
which is then enjoyed as a tasty snack to ac-
company any Christmas event or meal. It goes
exceedingly well with butter.
NÝÁRSDAGUR
(knee-ouwrs-da-guer)
See also: Drinking
Icelanders like to spend most of New Year’s
Day feeling hung-over and sorry for them-
selves. As the evening approaches, many will
start pulling themselves together and dressing
up for New Year’s Day banquets or parties that
have grown popular lately. Others will stay in
watching DVDs or something.
PRESENTS
See also: Aðfangadagur, jólatré
Of course Xmas is all about the presents, and a
lot of debt is incurred during the season, even
though we’ve yet to discern completely how the
act of spreading goodwill through gifts is af-
fected by the full impact of the Kreppa. There
are no specific guidelines for Xmas gift giving
in Iceland, but a good rule of thumb is to avoid
being extravagant in your gift choices, unless
maybe something extravagant is called for or
expected on the other end.
Generally most folks tend to stick with be-
stowing presents upon their immediate family
and loved ones, although some like to spread
the joy to their entire group of friends. In any
case, there’s nothing wrong with asking. Xmas
presents are stored under the Xmas tree until
they’re due to be opened.
RELIGION AND
CHURCH
Even though around
80% of them are en-
rolled in the State
Church, Icelanders
have never been known
to be particularly enthusiastic churchgoers
or observers of religious customs. Indeed,
Christmas isn’t a particularly religious holiday
in Iceland. However, many folks like to at-
tend Church services and concerts during the
holidays, particularly on the 24th and the 31st.
Check with your tourist information centre for
complete church listings.
The ringing of the church bells of Reyk-
javík’s Lutheran Cathedral is broadcast on all
major television and radio stations throughout
the country promptly at 18:00 on Christmas
Eve, at which point everyone wishes each other
a Merry Christmas and sits down to eat.
RETURNING GIFTS
See also: Commerce
Exchanging one’s Xmas gifts in lieu of some-
thing more desirable is a common practice in
Iceland. Most stores will accept returns until
the second week of January, although policies
differ.
RJÚPUR
(ryooe-purr)
See also: Jólamatur
Wild fowl rjúpur, or ptarmigan, are a popular
main course for many families Christmas
meals. The small birds can be delicious if
handled properly, and have a rich, gamey sort
of taste. The Grapevine recommends trying
some if you have the chance.
SANTA CLAUS
See also: Jólasveinar
We have no need for your international big,
fat, jolly, capitalist greed-mongering Coca Cola
Santa Claus in Iceland, as we have thirteen of
our own that are much cooler. He still makes
an appearance from time to time. Oh we like
him fine enough, he’s a jolly good fellow and
all.
ÞORLÁKSMESSA
(thoer-louwks-mess-a)
See also: Kæst skata
In celebration of one of only two Icelandic
saints, St. Þorlákur, Icelanders eat fermented
skate, which preferably is swallowed with copi-
ous amounts of Icelandic Brennivín schnapps.
Then, they will traditionally gather on the
shopping street Laugavegur to do some last
minute shopping (although some do the bulk
of their shopping on that day), drink Christ-
mas beer or hot chocolate and have a merry
ol’ time. Also, this is traditionally the day that
children are allowed to decorate the Christmas
tree.
ÞRETTÁNDINN
(thu-rhett-ouwn-din-n)
January 6 is Þrettándinn (“the thirteenth”),
the thirteenth and final day of Christmas ac-
cording to Icelandic tradition. The event is cel-
ebrated with torch processions, bonfires, fire-
works, and the king and queen of the hidden
people traditionally join the festivities. Back
in olden times, it was a scary time to be out
and about, as the hidden people can be surpris-
ingly sinister.
Illustrations by Inga Maria Brynjarsdóttir
5 THE REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE XMAS SPECIAL 2013
Holiday Opening Hours
Your Grapevine Guide
If you are a tourist stranded in Iceland over the holiday season, you may
find yourself hard pressed to find activities as the country practically
shuts down in December. Most of the shops are closed, tour operators
run a limited schedule and many of our favourite restaurants close down.
Rather than let you depend on dumb luck, we at the Grapevine compiled
a list of what’s open and when for your convenience. Restaurants will be
closed for the most part, and hotels may have reduced service, but rest
assured there are things to do in Reykjavík.
We’ve tried to make sure it is as comprehensive as possible, but there
may be changes from when we print the issue. For a complete list, check
out The Official Tourist Information Centre.
Travel
Strætó:
23: Regular schedule
24: Saturday schedule until 14
25: No Service
26: Sunday schedule
31: Saturday schedule until 14
1: No service
Reykjavík Excursions:
24: Reduced service
25: Reduced service
26: Normal schedule
31: Normal schedule
1: Normal schedule
Iceland Excursions:
24: Reduced service
25: Reduced service
26: Normal schedule
31: Reduced service
1: Reduced service
The Official Tourist
Information Centre:
24: Open 09-12
25: Closed
26: Closed
31: Open 10-14
1: Open 09-18
The Blue Lagoon:
23: Open 10-17, restaurant closed
24: Open 10-13), restaurant closed
25: Open 10-15, restaurant closed
26: Open 10-20
31: Open 10-16, restaurant closed
at 15
1: Open 10-20
Pools
Árbæjarlaug:
24: Open 08-12:30
25: Closed
26: Open 12-18
31: Open 08-12:30
1: Closed
Breiðholtslaug:
24: Open 08-12:30
25: Closed
26: Closed
31: Open 08-12:30
1: Closed
Grafarvogslaug:
24: Open 08-12:30
25: Closed
26: Closed
31: Open 08-12:30
1: Closed
Laugardalslaug:
24: Open 08-12:30
25: Closed
26: Open 12-18
31: Open 08-12:30
1: Open 12-18
Sundhöll Reykjavíkur:
24: Open 08-12:30
25: Closed
26: Closed
31: Open 08-12:30
1: Closed
Vesturbæjarlaug:
24: Open 08-12:30
25: Closed
26: Closed
31: Open 08-12:30
1: Closed
Museum/Galleries
The following museums are
open on the following days:
26: Ásmundarsafn, Hafnarhúsi ,
Kjarvalssta ir, The National Mu-
seum, The Settlement Exhibition,
The Phallic Museum, Volcano
House
31: Hafnarhúsi , Reykjavík
Museum of Photography, The
Settlement Exhibition, The Phallic
Museum, Volcano House
1: Hafnarhúsi , Kjarvalssta ir, The
Settlement Exhibition
Stores
Kolaportið
24: Closed
25: Closed
26: Closed
31: Closed
1: Closed
Kraum
24: Open 09-12
25: Closed
26: Closed
31: Open 09-15
1: Closed
Kringlan
23: Open 10-23
24: Open 10-13
25: Closed
26: Closed
31: Open 10-13
1: Closed
Laugavegur & Downtown
23: Open 10-23
24: Open 10-12
25: Closed
26: Closed
31: Open 10-12
1: Closed
Smáralind
23: Open 11-23
24: Open 11-13
25: Closed
26: Closed
31: Open 10-12
1: Closed