Reykjavík Grapevine - 12.09.2014, Blaðsíða 33
33The Reykjavík GrapevineIssue 14 — 2014 FOOD
to artistically mold the potato salad un-
der the fish, top with cucumber sprouts
and trout roe, and garnish with what she
jokingly refers to as the pièce de résis-
tance: Icelandic pylsusinnep (“hot dog
mustard”—surprisingly good in this con-
text). Once we’ve assembled our dish-
es—none of which look quite as nice as
hers—Auður leads us to the table in back,
where she pours us all a glass of wine and
we tuck in, immensely proud of ourselves.
Really good housewives
Although I’m already a bit food-drunk, I
could have easily eaten another full appe-
tizer. But it’s time to get back to the kitch-
en and quickly sear our lamb entree—ten-
der filets which we’ve marinated in fresh
angelica and will serve with quick-pickled
beets, rutabaga puree, and an angelica
jus. Again, we assemble our frankly gor-
geous plates; again, we sit, enjoy some
wine and are impressed with our appar-
ently boundless culinary talents.
We’re well on our way to being com-
pletely stuffed, but not so much so that
anyone is willing to forego dessert. We
North Americans, used to more robust,
pillowy pancakes, briefly look askance
at the thin liquid resting in the blender
before our chef assures us that every-
thing is as it should be. “In the old days,”
she explains, “flour was scarce, a luxury
commodity. Women prided themselves
on how thin their pancakes were—if you
could see through them, you were a really
good housewife.”
Each of us then takes a turn at the
griddle, pouring a paper-thin layer over
the hot surface and trying to replicate
the “lacy” quality of Auður’s example
pancake. It’s a skill that even the Ice-
landers among us had some difficulty
mastering, but full disclosure: the rela-
tive laciness makes no difference when
it comes to taste.
We spoon out heaping dollops of
cream on the pancakes before folding
them into quar-ters and serving them
alongside small cups of the stewed rhu-
barb we made earlier. Finally full to burst-
ing, the table descends into a comfortable
conversation about Icelandic tourism pol-
icies and the changing face of downtown
Reykjavík as we linger over our wine.
Making my way to the door a bit later,
with a folder of the day’s recipes in hand,
I’m surprised to see that three hours have
passed. I feel like I’ve been both host and
guest at my own dinner party—had all the
pleasure of cooking and eating delicious
food, without any of the hassle of washing
up after. Not a bad deal.
All you need
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MATERIAL
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White- and red wine
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Cocktail of the day
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Bergstaðastræti 37
Tel: 552 5700
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gallery@holt.is
Selected drinks
at half price
Ocean Trout sous vide with
shrimp and pressed potato
salad
Ocean Trout Sous Vide
• 600 g (22 oz) ocean trout fillet
(smoked optional)
• 2 tbsp gravlax mix: 2 parts sugar +
1 part fine sea salt
• 2 tsp dill, finely chopped
• A pinch white pepper
• Vacuum pack/freezer bag
• 1 tsp lemon zest
• Salt & white pepper
• Cucumber cress / Borage cress
(can substitute other cresses or
parsley, as desired)
• 100 g (3.5 oz) Nordic sea shrimp
• Arctic trout roe
Icelandic hot dog mustard (pyls
u-sinnep)
Season the fish with gravlax mix-
ture, chopped dill and white pepper.
Place the fish in a vacuum bag and fully
seal. Bring a large pot of water to 43 °C
(109.4 °F). Use a meat or candy ther-
mometer to check the water tempera-
ture. Place the fish packet in the water
and cook for 20 minutes.
After 20 minutes, take the bag
out of the water and allow to cool. (If
desired, you can also bake the ocean
trout fillet in an oven set at 43 °C (109.4
°F) until the in-ternal temperature of
the fish is 43°C (109.4 °F).)
Pressed Potato Salad
• 500 g (18 oz) new season potatoes
• 200 g (3.5 oz) sour cream
• 3 medium shallots
• 3 spring onions
• 2 tablespoons dill, chopped finely
Boil the new season potatoes in their
skin in salted water with dill stems and
a small knob of butter.
Let the potatoes cool (this can be
done one day in advance).
Cut the shallots into small cubes,
finely slice the spring onions and
chives, chop the dill tops.
Mix the sour cream with the on-
ions and herbs, season with salt &
white pepper.
When the potatoes are cold, crush
each one with your hands to release
the starch and make it creamy, stir in
the sour cream mix and mix well.
Assembly and serving
Using a 5 cm ring mold, press the
potato salad into a perfect circle 3
cm high on a plate. Place Nordic sea
shrimp on top.
Using a squeeze bottle, make a
thin, decorative line of Icelandic mus-
tard on one end of the plate.
Place a spoon of ocean trout roe
atop the potato salad, with the shrimp
(optional).
Cut the ocean trout into chunks
and place on potato salad base as well,
add a pinch of birch smoked salt and
top with cress, borage or parsley.
Salt Recipe