Reykjavík Grapevine - 05.05.2017, Síða 56

How to get there:
Take Route One North, turn onto
Route 54 then Route 56
Distance from
Reykjavík
165km
Town Guide
What to do in the charming Snæfellsnes
town of Stykkishólmur
Words & Photos: John Rogers

Of all the small towns around Ice-
land’s coastline, Stykkishólmur—
population 1,195—is one of the most
charming. The small harbour is
enclosed by a small, easily hikeable
cliff that offers views out into the
island-dotted fjord, and for such
a small place, there’s plenty to see
and do, making it a perfect spot for
a weekend getaway.
Hike: Helgafell
This small mountain (elevation
73m) is visible to the east on the
drive into Stykkishólmur. It’s a site
of importance in the Icelandic sa-
gas, with a grave reputedly belong-
ing to Guðrún Ósvífrsdóttir at its
base. A local superstition states that
walking to the top of hill in silence,
looking only at the ground and keep-
ing pure thoughts in your mind,
entitles you to a wish at the summit.
Museum: The Library
of Water
The Library of Water is an instal-
lation by the artist Roni Horn. Oc-
cupying the town’s old library build-
ing, it comprises several cylindrical
floor-to-ceiling glass pillars, each
one filled with meltwater and silt
from one of Iceland’s glaciers. The
floor is etched with Icelandic and
English words for weather, and
there’s a reading room with litera-
ture relating to the project, which
acts as an imagination of a future in
which the library might be all that’s
left of the glaciers.
Eat: Narfeyrarstofa
This cosy restaurant, on the town’s
main street, is worth the trip alone.
In the neat and comfortable dining
room they serve fresh seafood pulled
out of the adjacent Breiðafjörður,
cooked to perfection, with a lunch
menu of fish soup and main courses,
and locally sourced beef burgers.
Narfeyrarstofa is a labour of love,
and it shows—it’s one of the best
rural restaurants in Iceland.
Trip: Viking Sushi
Stykkishólmur’s harbour is a busy
little place, with working fishing
boats, a ferry to the Westfjords,
and cruises run by Seatours.
The most popular is the Viking
Sushi day trip, which combines
a spin around the island-dotted
Breiðafjörður with a memorable
culinary experience: shellfish are
dredged from the bottom of the
fjord, with scallops and sea ur-
chins served with soy sauce right
there on the deck. It doesn’t get
any fresher.
Visit: The Volcano
Museum
Stykkishólmur’s volcano museum
is home to the personal collection of
volcanologist Haraldur Sigurðsson.
There’s a pleasing mixture of film,
historical documents, geological
samples, and a display of the cul-
ture inspired by volcanoes, includ-
ing rare prints by Andy Warhol and
Hokusai. The museum is also an
academic centre of sorts, meaning
that whether you’re a casual pass-
erby or an out-and-proud volcano
nerd, you can learn something here.
Stay: Hotel Egilsen
Housed in a distinctive bright red
building adjacent to the harbour is
Hotel Egilsen, a comfortable ten-
room boutique hotel. Originally
built as a private residence in 1867,
the house was renovated in 2011, and
today it’s one of the most charming
hotels in Iceland. The nice touches
include Vík Prjónsdóttir blankets,
immaculate eggshell blue rooms,
and a café and breakfast room
that also has an interesting array
of books to dip into. It’s pricey, but
worth it.
Swim: Stykkishólmur
Sundlaug
Pretty much every town in Iceland
has a local swimming pool, each
with their own unique character.
Stykkishólmur’s pool is also home
to the town’s local sports teams,
and benefits from a local geother-
mal water supply that’s higher in
some minerals than either the Blue
Lagoon or the Mývatn Nature Baths.
The silky water feels soft on the
skin, and when you’re done luxuri-
ating in the hot pots, you can have a
go on the waterslide.
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54 The Reykjavík Grapevine
Issue 07 — 2017
The Library of Water
Stykkishólmur harbour
The best of Icelandic produce
with a nod to Japan and South
America. Modern Icelandic
flavours, share plates and award
winning cocktails.
Sushi Social
Þingholtsstræti 5 • 101 Reykjavík
Tel. 568 6600 • sushisocial.is
Our kitchen is open
17.00–23.00 sun.–thu.
17.00–24.00 fri.–sat.
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