Reykjavík Grapevine - 25.08.2017, Qupperneq 62

The Reykjavík Grapevine
Issue 02 — 2017
As the town falls asleep, the streets fill
up with the alluring smell of freshly
baked pastries and bread. This is when
Rui Leal, who moved from southern Por-
tugal to Iceland six months ago, starts
work at the prestigious bakery Sandholt.
He comes from a family of bakers and he
has been impressed by his new employ-
er’s professionalism and passion. “Peo-
ple at Sandholt put a lot of art and love
into their work—be it making bread or
pastry,” says Rui, who starts preparing
our fresh morning bread at midnight.
“Poetic freedom”
“The night shift heightens the magic
of Iceland’s everyday,” Rui says. “I’ll be
walking to work with snow up to my
belly and the fjord in the background in
the pitch black night.” He says there’s a
reason so many great poets write about
the night, as it is then that you get to ex-
perience a sort of “poetic freedom.”
Crazy African-style tunes
Rui welcomes the freedom the night of-
fers and he describes a hopping bakery
scene: “I play all this strange music,” he
says, laughing. “I’ll plug in the speak-
ers and listen to classic Portuguese Fado
music, strange blues—like Tom Waits—
or some crazy African-style tunes if I
need some rhythm.” Basically, Rui re-
leases his inner star when his co-work-
ers are nowhere to be seen.
Becoming an island
This Tom Waits karaoke session con-
tinues for about three hours until the
next baker arrives, at which point Rui
says he’s so engrossed in what he’s do-
ing that “it’ll scare the shit out of [him].”
Rui enjoys the solitude of the night shift:
“There's no Jehovah's Witness banging
on your door; this time is for you. You
become sort of an island.”
Writing a novel
As well as baking delicious goodies, Rui
is currently working on a novel about
the beauty of normalcy. He explains, “I
try to take little pieces of daily life and
give them magic.” Judging by his abil-
ity to make magic with the bread, we’re
quite sure he’s a magician in other areas
as well.
HOUR OF THE WOLF
CITY SHOT
The Magic of the
Night Shift
Anecdotes from a Sandholt Baker
Words:
Zoë Vala Sands
Photo:
Art Bicnick
by Jessica Bowe
DON’T ASK NANNA...
About
Northern
Lights In
Summer
Words: Nanna Árnadóttir
Hi Nanna,
Could you tell me the best spot in Reyk-
javík to see some Northern Lights in the
summer?
Love the column, thank you! Please don’t
be too snarky, hahaha.
Aurora.
Hey Aurora!
Don’t worry, I got you girl!
For the best Northern Lights in Iceland in
the summer, it’s best to get out to some of
the more isolated spots away from the city
to avoid light pollution.
Try checking out Grótta lighthouse, which
is a majestic and secluded spot right on the
sea, perfect for viewing the midsummer
aurora. If that doesn’t work, try checking
out Reynisvatn, a small lake near Grafar-
holt, which is also far from town, free of
people and chock-full of aurora on display.
Enjoy!
Nanna
Hæ sæta Nanna,
Could you please give me a recipe for plok-
kfiskur?
Well, I can find it from the internet but I
would like your recipe.
Sincerely,
Smokkfiskur
Dear Smokkfiskur,
I’m a vegetarian.
Nanna
Don't email: nanna@grapevine.is
Don't tweet at: @NannaArnadottir
West-Iceland
62 The Reykjavík Grapevine
Issue 15 — 2017