Reykjavík Grapevine - 16.03.2018, Qupperneq 50

Travel
The best of Icelandic produce
with a nod to Japan and South
America. Modern Icelandic
flavours, share plates and award
winning cocktails.
Sushi Social
Þingholtsstræti 5 • 101 Reykjavík
Tel. 568 6600 • sushisocial.is
Our kitchen is open
17.00–23.00 sun.–thu.
17.00–24.00 fri.–sat.
SOCIALIZE
WITH THE
LOCALS
ICELANDIC
SEAFOOD
makes world’s best sushi
With its small, busy harbour,
views across to Reykjanesviti and
Reykjanesfólkvangur nature re-
serve, and close proximity to the
Blue Lagoon and Keflavík Airport,
the humble fishing town of Grin-
davík—population, 3,000—is an
interesting option for weekend
visitors less interested in the hub-
bub of Reykjavík life, and more in
Icelandic nature. Here’s what to
do there.
Stay: Geo Hotel or
Harbour View Cabins
In the winter, you might want the
comforts of a hotel. Geo Hotel is
centrally located and offers clean,
basic, modern rooms. In the sum-
mer, the Harbour View cabins are
a good option, with front windows
that look right out onto the sea-
front. If it’s summer, and you’re on
a budget and feeling brave, there’s
also a campsite in the heart of the
town.
Visit: Hópsnes
The peninsula at the bottom of
Grindavík has a rough dirt road
that winds its way out to the bright
orange Hópsnesviti lighthouse.
Along the way, you’ll pass the
rusting skeletons of several ships,
with information plaques about
how they ended up there. There’s
a ruined village of former salt-
houses and fishing buildings, and
a map of shipwrecks that have oc-
curred in the area—the elements
have worn away much of the text,
which perhaps speaks to the sub-
ject in itself.
Eat: Salthúsið
This large wood-panelled res-
taurant has various rooms suit-
able for solo dining, couples, or
large groups. They have options
ranging from soups and hot
snacks to a hearty and afford-
able fish ‘n’ chips, or more elabo-
rate dishes such as arctic char,
baked salmon, or the house spe-
cial of salted cod and vegetables.
There’s even a small outdoor ter-
race for eating al fresco, should
the sun gods look upon you kindly.
Road Trip:
Reykjanes
The Reykjanes peninsula is geo-
thermally active, as evidenced by
the presence of the Svartsengi
geothermal plant and the Blue La-
goon. You can drive the Krýsuvík
road past the Seltún geothermal
hot spot and Kleifarvatn lake,
then circle left past Keflavík to
the dramatic Gunnuhver hot spot,
the Álfagjá tectonic rift canyon,
and Reykjanesviti lighthouse and
viewpoint before heading back
to Grindavík past some desolate,
wind-whipped coastline.
Swim: Grindavík Pool

If you’re not up for the crowds at
the Blue Lagoon, check out the lo-
cal pool. Every self-respecting Ice-
landic town has one, and that goes
doubly for fishing towns, where
swimming ability can be a matter
of life or death. Grindavík’s town
pool is located right next to the
local football field, and has a slide,
two steaming hot pots, a lounging
pool and a swimming pool. When
we visited, it was closed, in con-
trary to what Google suggested:
check ahead for seasonal varia-
tions on the opening times.
Drink:
Fish House Bar +
Restaurant

This cosy bar opened soon after
prohibition was lifted in Iceland,
and still has a pub atmosphere,
with a darts board, a sound sys-
tem for parties, and a big TV, pre-
sumably for sports events. The
draught beer selection is limited,
but there’s more available by the
bottle, and they serve piping hot
fish dishes, including—during our
visit, at least— a fun extra menu of
small plates.
Grindavík
Shipwrecks, Cabins And Saltfish.
Words: John Rogers Photos: Timothée Lambrecq
Distance from Reykjavík: 52 km
How to get there: Drive towards Keflavík Airport, take route 43
Grindavík is a beacon. Well, it's a town. But here's an actual beacon.