Reykjavík Grapevine - nov 2019, Qupperneq 34

The Reykjavík G
rapevine
Best of Iceland 2019
34 BEST OF ICELAND 2019
Westfjords
Breathe in, breathe out
Best Accommodation
Hotel Djúpavík
Djúpavík, Strandir
Frozen in time in the smallest village in Iceland, Hotel Djúpavík is more
than just a hotel: it’s an experience. Hotel Djúpavík’s haven-like atmos-
phere encapsulates the word ‘unforgettable.’ There’s an abandoned herring
factory-turned-museum, a shipwreck, and the surrounding wilderness
to keep you company. The panel praised the hotel’s homely atmosphere,
friendly staff and—of course—location. “All you hear at night is the nearby
waterfall, the tide, and the birds,” said one panellist. “It’s so peaceful.”
Map square: F7
Runner Up
Heydalur
Mjóifjörður, Ísafjörður
“Entering Heydalur is like entering a little
utopian fantasy,” exclaimed one panellist.
In a picturesque valley near Ísafjörður, it’s
more than just a place to sleep, boasting a
guesthouse, campsite, restaurant, swim-
ming pool, greenhouse, farm, and recreation
centre. It’s a perfect base for outdoor activ-
ities in the Westfjords and you can try local
food and bathe in one of the best pools in
the country. C6
Runner Up
Hótel Laugarhóll
Hólmavík
Located in the quiet hamlet of Bjar-
narfjörður, Laugarhóll is, according to the
panel, “the perfect spot for peace and qui-
et.” In its immediate vicinity is a 25-metre
outdoor geothermal pool, and a small nat-
ural hot pot with panoramic views of the
unbridled Westfjords nature. B8
Best Meal
Tjöruhúsið
Neðstakaupstað, Ísafjörður
This was an easy one for the panel. “It’s the
best fish restaurant in Iceland,” said one
panellist. “What else can you say?” With
communal tables, low wooden ceilings,
warm lighting and a seemingly endless
buffet, Tjöruhúsið offers an informal take
on fine-dining in an 18th century fishing
building. The fish comes straight from the
harbour, so dishes change daily—it could
be anything from crunchy gellur to wolffish
in cream cheese sauce. Book ahead, and
come hungry. C6
Runners Up
Restaurant Galdur
Höfðagata 8, Hólmavík
Don’t let the exterior fool you. Attached
to the Icelandic Museum of Sorcery and
Witchcraft, the modest Restaurant Gal-
dur is a true hidden gem, full of authentic
Icelandic grub. The panel recommend the
locally-harvested blue mussels—but if
they’re not in stock, the fish soup is pos-
itively divine. F8
Malarhorn
Grundargata 17, Drangsnes
A low-key restaurant, Malarhorn offers a
down-to-earth selection of Iceland’s fin-
est. “There’s something about looking out
towards Grímsey on Steingrímsfjörður and
eating the tasty fish caught by local fisher-
man earlier that day,” said the panel, fondly.
The catfish with pepper sauce comes rec-
ommended. F8
Must-See Spot
Dynjandi
Just off Route 60
Iceland—and particularly the Westfjords—
is dripping with waterfalls, but Dynjandi is
a show-stopper, nonetheless. Cascading
down a series of levels like a tiered wed-
ding cake, it has an immense presence that
must be seen to be understood. For the full
experience, check out the view of Dynjandi
from across the fjord before seeing it up-
close. The difference in scale is breathtak-
ing. There’s also a lovely picnic spot at the
bottom. C8
Runners Up
South Westfjords Beaches
Southern Westfjords
The southern Westfjords area is famous
for its beaches, include the yellow sand of
Barðaströnd and the red sand of Rauðisan-
dur. Both are off the beaten track, making
them an ideal spot for tranquil strolls and
wildlife spotting. Walk out to the sand
reefs, stare out into the bay, and keep your
eyes peeled for seals. A9-A11
Trékyllisvík
Trékyllisvík, Árneshreppur
The remote cove of Trékyllisvík is lo-
cated deep in the sparsely-populated
Árneshreppur. Hemmed in by moun-
tains, it’s the perfect place for birdwatch-
ing and seal-spotting. Mostly undiscov-
ered by tourists, this stark village seems
stuck in time. Take a walk along the road
towards Munaðarnes to see the jagged
peaks of Drangaskörð. F7