Reykjavík Grapevine - nov 2019, Qupperneq 52

The Reykjavík G
rapevine
Best of Iceland 2019
52 BEST OF ICELAND 2019
East
Never go to the Highlands in a Yaris
Best Bathing Spot
Selárlaug
Selárdalur, Vopnafjörður
Built in 1949 as a training pool, this remote country spot is like a time
capsule on the banks of a salmon-fishing river, near the tiny town of Vo-
pnafjörður. It feels like the quintessential old-school Icelandic pool. You
have to drive there, and it’s perched on the edge of a gushing river—the
changing rooms, pool and hot pots are basic and unpretentious, but it’s
just unforgettable. Bonus: It also has a sun deck for those rare moments
of winter calm. Map square: G6
Runner Up
Laugarvalladalur Pool
Laugarvalladalur Valley
It’s always nice to take a dip in a natural
hot pool, but this bathing spot takes the
experience to the next level. In what feels
like the middle of nowhere, is this green
oasis with a natural geothermal pool and
stream. It’s quite a challenge to get to, but
so worth it. Warning: We imagine getting
here in winter is nigh impossible. E10
Runner Up
Neskaupstaður Pool
Miðstræti 23, Neskaupstaður
Neskaupstaður pool is small, but it has
everything you need—a steam room, hot
pots and a swimming pool—with the add-
ed bonus of an epic mountain view right
across the fjord. Also, the town is so quiet
it’s never crowded, so ease your worries
away as chilled out locals chit-chat around
you. I10
Best Hike
Stórurð
Borgarfjörður eystri
This hike, starting from Vatnsskarð, takes
approximately 6 hours to complete. After
a long trek up the valley, you come to a
stunning maze of huge broken rocks that
have tumbled down from Dyrfjöll, leav-
ing a vast horseshoe-shaped cleft in the
mountains above. The biggest reward,
though, is Stórurð itself—gigantic boul-
ders surrounded by unearthly turquoise
water. Honestly, it’s not a good idea to go
in winter, but put it on your list. I7
Easy Option
Waterfall Lane
Seyðisfjörður
From Seyðisfjörður town, hike through
some pleasant countryside to the Neðri-
Stafur rock stratum, passing lots of beauti-
ful waterfalls. “You ascend a series of cliffs,
like a staircase made for a giant,” said the
panel. At the top, you get a stunning view
of Seyðisfjörður. Try to reach Vestdalsvatn
lake, which is frozen almost year-round. I8
Advanced option
Víknaslóðir
Borgarfjörður Eystri to Seyðisfjörður
If you’re up for an ambitious five-day hike,
this “trail of the inlets” has all the awe-in-
spiring scenery you could want. This epic
hike winds its way around deserted coves,
less-travelled valleys and abandoned
fjords. Real talk: Unless you’re a very expe-
rienced hiker—we’re talking Himalayan—
don’t do this in the winter. I8-I9
Best Road Trip
Borgarfjörður Eystri
Borgarfjörður Eystri, Eastfjords
This drive is as scenic as it is pleasant. You
start off driving towards the wide black
beach of Sandur, curving right into the
mountains; soon, you’re looking down
across the East Iceland coastline from high
above. You swoop down into an all-but
abandoned valley, where there are a few
interesting stops, before winding around a
sheer scree slope on a dirt track, arriving at
one of the cutest towns in Iceland as your
reward. Check road.is in advance. I7
Runners Up
Möðrudalsöræfi
Route One, Eastfjords to North East
Whatever the weather or the time of day or
night, this area will always be enchantingly
or hauntingly beautiful. “I drive this route
regularly and it never gets boring,” said the
panel. “Suddenly you’re in the Highlands—
usually all by yourself—and you realise it’s
just you and the trolls up there.” E8
Easy Option
Öxi & Lagarfljót
Route 939, Berufjörður to Lagarfljót
During the summer months, ascend-
ing the steep peaks of the Öxi pass from
Berufjörður is breathtaking, adrenaline-in-
ducing, and not for the faint of heart. De-
scending to Lagarfljót, you can use the re-
maining daylight to circle the lake or drive
to the Kárahnjúkar dam, checking out the
Laugarfell hot pot on the way.” Please don’t
attempt in winter. G11
THE LOCAL BEER